Sweet.I just learnded sumpin new.

My 89 master is the same as all of my 90+ master cylinders.No innerference on mine.

No interference is probably banjo bolt angle off of the MS. It was late and I guess I didn't take time to study the situation.
The 89 MS has the window on the front. I'll have to look at one to see exactly how else they differ from the later ones.

What is the length of your bars? Do they have 2 notches or one?

You can see in the picture that there is only about 1" of empty space on the right bar. Take off that 1" and things are rather tight.

Cool. I learned something new 'bout clipons!

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Is there a reason why no one has machined the top triple assembly before? Seems like the clip things and the bars would be easy to source, but the top triple assembly is the hard part.
Looking at it, it doesnt look HARD to machine. Of course i know absolute zero about that stuff. Just asking....

The top plate should be super simple. Could be done with a water cutter. Drill and tap the clip bolt mounts. Bore out a little on the underside for the rubber cushion mounting. Round the edges and you have one.

Clips would be harder. 89's are straight so could be easy. The Euro's have an angle up and back to be less aggressive. That would be harder. A 3D milling machine should be able to make some. On all, they are cast. Then the bar hole is bored clean. The part that goes on the top plate is machined. Then the screw holes are tapped. Design one on a 3D CAD system. Flip it for the other side.

Doing your own top plate could angle the bars out a few degrees for clearance on the 2001+ tanks.

Quote from: adidasguy on March 22, 2012, 12:33:16 PM
No interference is probably banjo bolt angle off of the MS. It was late and I guess I didn't take time to study the situation.
The 89 MS has the window on the front. I'll have to look at one to see exactly how else they differ from the later ones.

What is the length of your bars? Do they have 2 notches or one?

You can see in the picture that there is only about 1" of empty space on the right bar. Take off that 1" and things are rather tight.

Mine have 1 notch in the bars.

Quote from: adidasguy on March 22, 2012, 04:53:28 PM
The top plate should be super simple. Could be done with a water cutter. Drill and tap the clip bolt mounts. Bore out a little on the underside for the rubber cushion mounting. Round the edges and you have one.

Clips would be harder. 89's are straight so could be easy. The Euro's have an angle up and back to be less aggressive. That would be harder. A 3D milling machine should be able to make some. On all, they are cast. Then the bar hole is bored clean. The part that goes on the top plate is machined. Then the screw holes are tapped. Design one on a 3D CAD system. Flip it for the other side.

Doing your own top plate could angle the bars out a few degrees for clearance on the 2001+ tanks.

I wonder how much that would be?

After thinking about it, i guess the cost would wind up being expensive, and no better than the SM type 2 bars.

The mailman was good to me today. Since my office is closed on Saturday, I didn't get my birthday presents until today.

More parts for the bike builds!

To my shock and surprise, the 3rd NOS 1989 clip on set that came in is actually the 1990-2000 European type 1. I noticed the package (never opened) had part ...01D10 and the others had ...01D00. So here they are: 2 more new sets of clip ons: 1989 and European type 1. Used belly pan. Complete set of "F" fairing stickers (I used them when I paint older parts - anyone notice that Junior has "F" tail decals on his Gimbel seat!) 2 copies of the parts catalog from Europe. And the service supplement for "F" models.

Now to get back to assembling Phenix. He will get the new set of 1989's to replace the used set I have on him. The plan is to sell Trey once Phenix is done so no more upgrades for Trey.

The bottom clips are the 1989's. The top one is the European type 1. I wonder if there are any other new ones in the world? This was a lucky find.

 

Where do you find these OEM belly pans?! AURHG where are they hiding? 

Quote from: BrianKD on March 26, 2012, 07:34:21 PM
Where do you find these OEM belly pans?! AURHG where are they hiding? 

Search ebay and craig's list until you're nearly blind and then search some more.They're almost as rare as frogs teeth.

In the picture below, is that a clock on the top piece?    Where can I find one of those"

Quote from: adidasguy on March 22, 2012, 12:40:03 AM

Junior with new clips and the 1990+ European bars due to the use of a 2009 master cylinder.

Quote from: Mke723 on April 08, 2012, 09:50:25 PM
In the picture below, is that a clock on the top piece?    Where can I find one of those"

Quote from: adidasguy on March 22, 2012, 12:40:03 AM

Junior with new clips and the 1990+ European bars due to the use of a 2009 master cylinder.

http://www.clocks4bikes.com/

Thanks, I will check them out...

Well, it was warm tonight so I decided to get the wrenches out.

The DONOR bike is a 2006 with a not so great previous 3 owners. The engine runs really well so I continued removing stuff to get the engine out and moved into Phenix.

Got the wiring harness out. All electricals out. Carbs out - removed them attached to the airbox. I saw someone do that. It does seem easier than removing the airbox then the carbs. Disconnected everything except what connects to the engine. Plan is a straight move from one frame to another.




Yep - no oil under the clutch cover. That's metal shavings from a non-oiled chain. I wondered about the long flakes: seed pods, the helicopter kind from an oak tree. I've never seen anything so devoid of oil.


OK. So now I am at the HELP stage. All 4 engine bolts out. Engine wants to stay in there. I was hoping to remove it intact. Now it seems I'll have to drain the oil (well, should do oil change anyway) and remove the oil cooler. At least I made some progress tonight. I wonder if a few strong people could LIFT the frame up and off of the motor? Oh, the right side is in the way of the frame. Seems motor has to turn. And the horn bracket is getting in the way. Time to look for videos on removing the engine.

So here is the donor bike as I quit work tonight.


I can slip a couple engine bolts back in to support it in order to drain the oil and remove the oil cooler.

I've never taken an engine out but here is a video of two guys doing it with a car jack.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJ8ZWzRau70&t=2m46s

I've pulled gsE and gsF engines. I don't remember having to remove the oil cooler on any F's. Although I didn't use a jack, just put some cardboard below the engine- lift a bit, and like you said, you have to kind of pivot and lower the engine out.

Looking closer at the photos at my photos i might have pulled the valve cover off to give the engine a bit more room to slide out

What's the oil cooler hitting/catching on?

It was late. I recall  hearing you'd have to turn the engine. If turning to the left, the oil cooler would keep you from pulling it out to the right. Horn bracket was keeping it from turning to the right, which I thought was right.
Anyway, it was late. I was excited I got everything else out and the engine was on the lift - but trapped in there.

I'll watch the video and try again later. Maybe with some help.

Weather is getting nice and I'm making progress.

PS: Watched that video. I guess I need to get some beer. They said that helps.

Yep, you gotta rotate counter-clockwise (if you are looking at it from the top).  Learned that one the hard way and got a few scratches on my stator cover to prove it.

So counter clockwise means the oil cooler ends up on the outside of the left side of the frame. Engine then is still trapped. Or is it just a little bit counter clockwise?

Some say rotate it clockwise.

Buddha says lay the bike on the right side on a mattress.

Now I am confused.

Maybe I should try lifting the frame up and off of the motor? 

That danged welded on bracket for the horn on the "F" frame gets in the way. Maybe I'll amputate that thing. It IS a "dead-title donor" frame. Always easy to mount a horn anywhere with bailing wire, duct tape and some chewing gum if the frame is used again.

Anyone want to come over and help?

I like how the Haynes manual says:
"21 The engine can now be be removed from the
frame. Check that all wiring, cables and hoses
are well clear. then lower the jack and
manoeuvre the engine out of the right-hand
aide of the frame"