I let it run for about 10-15 seconds. Reved it to about 2.5k twice then shut it off out of fear.

Never really timed it but I would think that would be long enough.  Something I'll pay more attention to next time I change the oil.

-Jessie

Lol, yeah, when I changed the oil, it seemed about the same time. I suppose I'll change the oil tomorrow and keep the same filter as it's only been 1k or less driving. I'm wary about reusing the oil even if it's been a short amount of time.

How much does it cost to replace that sensor.  If you got oil spurting out, then doesn't that mean you should have oil pressure?

Well, it just means you have oil spurting out.  It doesn't necessarily mean you have adequate pressure.  Air in the filter will pump out in 15-20 seconds in my experience.  If it was me, I would try to borrow an oil pressure gauge and get a real number.

I believe the way to test the sensor is for continuity only. Double check a service manual first, but I think the whole procedure is as follows:

No continuity when the engine is running
Continuity when the engine is off

So if the sensor is showing "no" continuity with a multimeter while its not mounted, it needs replaced. Does that make sense?

I think the sensor is around $17 online. Might be mid 20s, I can't recall. The oil just slowly came out, there was no real push: Imagine bleeding from a small pin prick on your finger. I suppose I can pull the cap off and check continuity tomorrow. Should I have seen more pressure pushing the oil out of the sensor hole?

What if there is air in the pump? Would that remove itself as well?

One note about the sensor. There seemed to be a small chip off of the black insulator (assuming that's what it is) part, but it wasn't exposing any metal bits.

As for borrowing a pressure guage, where would I do this at? I don't really know any local motorcycle mechanics, and I'm not sure autozone would have one that would work on my bike. Is there one specific for this bike or are most pressure switches the same diameter?

Procedure:
http://www.familyjones.org/paul/Oil%20press.pdf

Cheap test kit.  Not sure what size adapter you need.  http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html
Call local autoparts stores to see if they have one to loan.

Ok, since oil actually came out of the sensor hole, I'm going to just get a new sensor as it is $4 cheaper than the online gauge, and no stores around me had them in stock. My thinking is this: if the sensor is bad and it does have pressure, the new sensor will show that. If the light stays on after the new sensor, it's either no pressure or a crimped wire. Either way, it will do the same thing (well, almost) as the gauge for $4 cheaper and if there was proper pressure, I'd have to get a new sensor anyway.

The only issue is if the new sensor is working, but there is pressure, but just low -- meaning the oil pump has air in it or is faulty. I think? Am In the right track here? Fork seals came in yesterday, but I can't take the bike up there now. This bike...

If you have a small dribble, like coming from a pin prick on your finger, that will not give you any Pressure for the sensor to read. Which is what you are experiencing right now. It's also too slow a flow to be useful for the engine. So Something somewhere is restricting oil flow. Buy the sensor if you want but I don't think that is your problem - or only problem.

Michael

That's what I feared, but, either way, the pressure gauge would have been a bigger waste of money.

The only other thing I could possibly think of is air in the oil pump (ok, the only other thing I want it to be). How would one get air out of the pump and get it to run correctly again?

Let me know where you got that deal on the pressure sensor, and if the old sensor was faulty.  I'm in a similar situation.

Drain the oil.
Take off the oil pan.
is there crap in it?
Look up underneath at the oil sump screen filter. Is it loaded with crap?
There could be crap in there. The fall-over may have dislodged the gunk and now it is clogging up everything.
also re-check the oil filter. didn't this also happen about the time you did an oil change?

As for air in the oil pump:  It is a positive displacement pump.  Air will just pump out.

Adidas, Kinda. I did the oil change before it went in the shop, so it had to be over a month ago; however, it had only been driven maybe 50 miles before it went to the shop and maybe 200 after... so yes and no, depending on how you look at it. I'll drain out the oil today and get another filter just in case it's clogged.

If you use synthetic, can you switch back to regular oil? Ever since I put it in, I've been worried it will effect the wet clutch even though it's motorcycle synthetic for wet clutches... I've just heard bad things ever since.

Juan, will do. I got the switch at cheapcycleparts.com. I don't think it's going to resolve the issue, though, due to the way the oil came out of the hole the switch screws into.

Paul, I was worried about that, lol. I was hoping adidas wasn't right, but I think he may be.

Get the oil pan gasket. Remove the oil pan and have a look. If there are internal problems, maybe metal will show there. You can look up at the sump screen, too. If clogged, something is amiss.

You can take off the valve cover. See if oil is getting up there. If not, you have a blockage somewhere. Maybe the oil pump got wacky after the bike fell over?

Maybe your GS is not happy with the different oil?

I'm almost sure the gs isn't happy with the oil. It ran a bit differently after the oil change, but not in a "bad" way... just differently. I don't want it to become a bad thing, so I'd like to switch back to a regular oil for this change. Is it possible to switch back to regular after using synthetic?

Yeah, no problem.

Awesome, going to switch back and do a full oil change and check the oil pan after I get the gasket ordered. Thanks guys. This bastard will run again or my wife will kill me

Ok, I was about to go out into the garage and start messing with things until... the clymer manual says to remove the engine from the frame and flip it upside down in order to remove the pan. Seriously? I don't have the equipment for this. Can I just slide the pan from between the engine and the exhaust or do I have to remove the exhaust as well?