Hey guys, I'm Sean from Florida. I just registered yesterday in hopes you may be able to help me. I'm going to look at a '92 GS500 tomorrow morning, and everything about it seems good for the price and age except for the rear brake. The owner said that he was riding it one day and the rear brakes were functional, and then the next day they were not.

So my curiosity has led me here. The bike is listed up for $900, I wouldn't pay a dime over $800, and I'm hoping the rear brake thing is something simple. What do you experts think it might be? I'm hoping maybe the back brake is cable actuated and the cable just snapped or is loose.

The rear brake is a hydraulic disk on all models.  Something I'd look at REAL closely because you definitely need brakes.  Could be pads, calipers, air in fluid, etc.

I think it's relatively easy to pick up a whole rear brake system from a newer bike on ebay on the cheap.  I wouldn't suggest messing around with it though if you aren't confident mechanically.  Also, if the seller did not fix the brakes not working, you have to wonder what kind of maintenance (or lack there of) was done.

Quote from: bombsquad83 on June 05, 2012, 07:51:37 AM
I think it's relatively easy to pick up a whole rear brake system from a newer bike on ebay on the cheap.  I wouldn't suggest messing around with it though if you aren't confident mechanically.  Also, if the seller did not fix the brakes not working, you have to wonder what kind of maintenance (or lack there of) was done.

An all new rear brake assembly would just consist of the pads, rotor and caliper, plus the line to the master cylinder, correct? I'm very confident in my mechanical abilities, been doing all the repairs and maintenence on my 176k mile '91 F150 since I bought it back in '09 when I was 17.

The owner told me the brake has only been nonfunctional for a couple weeks. He's stopped riding it or spending money on it since he listed it for sale on May 15th. How would I go about inspecting the lines to see if they are the problem?

Look for cracks, dry rot, and leaks.  Also check the fluid.  Probably looks like motor oil.

EDIT:  That's USED motor oil.

Quote from: jestercinti on June 05, 2012, 08:04:56 AM
Look for cracks, dry rot, and leaks.  Also check the fluid.  Probably looks like motor oil.

EDIT:  That's USED motor oil.

Alright, thanks! Any idea how much a new brake line would be?

Something that can give you an idea of what to look for would be how the lever feels when compressed.  Is it completely loose(bad cyclinder, leak, just disconnected)? does it have some resistance but inconsistencies (could indicate air in line)? Is it stuck solid (moisture in lines, need to replace lines)?

Other things to look for:
Is there fluid in the reservoir under the seat? If so, how does the fluid look (black, orange, yellowish?) Is there any visible fluid along the lines?  All of the breaking parts intact such as caliper, pads, etc..

Answers to some these questions can help troubleshoot and let you have a better idea of whats going on, how much it'll take to repair, etc..

- Bboy

Quote from: mustangGT90210 on June 05, 2012, 08:08:48 AM

Quote from: jestercinti on June 05, 2012, 08:04:56 AM
Look for cracks, dry rot, and leaks.  Also check the fluid.  Probably looks like motor oil.

EDIT:  That's USED motor oil.

Alright, thanks! Any idea how much a new brake line would be?

Stainless Steel brake lines (highly recommended) should run just under $50 from what I remember.

- Bboy

Quote from: BockinBboy on June 05, 2012, 08:09:34 AM
Something that can give you an idea of what to look for would be how the lever feels when compressed.  Is it completely loose(bad cyclinder, leak, just disconnected)? does it have some resistance but inconsistencies (could indicate air in line)? Is it stuck solid (moisture in lines, need to replace lines)?

Other things to look for:
Is there fluid in the reservoir under the seat? If so, how does the fluid look (black, orange, yellowish?) Is there any visible fluid along the lines?  All of the breaking parts intact such as caliper, pads, etc..

Answers to some these questions can help troubleshoot and let you have a better idea of whats going on, how much it'll take to repair, etc..

- Bboy

That is extremely helpful ,thank you. I'm stoked to go look at this thing, but just trying my best not to let wanting it cloud my judgement and make a bad purchase! I'll be saving your reply into my phone as a reminder for things to look for 

Price replacing the entire rear brake system to have an idea of how much you should be able to talk him down in price.

Quote from: Worm on June 05, 2012, 09:03:47 AM
Price replacing the entire rear brake system to have an idea of how much you should be able to talk him down in price.

Looking off of ebay, I can get a new master cylinder, lines and caliper for around $50, rotor for $25 and pads for $20. Which is $95 total. I'm gonna start negotiating at 700 if the rest of the bike seems to be in good shape and worth it. I'm not looking to buy a major project bike, but I don't mind fixing a couple things

This is the bike in question:

Personally, I'd price some paint too!! Not digging the colors! But if she runs good, aesthetics can always be changed!

Not digging that huge tank dent either! I'd look her over thoroughly for damage due to dropping!

And I'm with you Worm, not digging that color purple or the yellow wheels

You wouldn't happen to live in Vikings territory, would you? That might at least explain the color scheme.

Yeah, definitely looks like it's been down on both sides judging by the scratches on the engine covers. That dent is pretty rusty too. Hard to notice with the paint color! Also, that dash is not stock. Looks like something off an older bike. Not trying to scare you, just making you aware so you have negotiating ammo. Make sure you have the ability to walk away or you lose any power you had over the negotiations. Remember, there is a wealth of knowledge on here if you do decide to pick it up. Good luck tomorrow! 

Also, you may want to price out turn signals and make sure the wiring is there for them... You might look at the registration record to give you an idea if it was off the road for a long period of time.
I would be looking closely at the forks and frame for straightness, cracks, breaks, etc..

Like others have said, not putting this stuff out there to discourage, just lookin' out 

- Bboy

Edit: add wiring to turn signal comment

You guys are a  huge help. I know you're not trying to discourage me, when it comes to trucks I tell people all the same stuff, I just don't know enough about the bikes yet. My buddy who's been riding for a few months is coming with me, and that's the closest I have to someone who's knowledgeable.

I also know that the bike will need some gauges. The more stuff that isn't "right" is more I can talk him down for so keep it coming! Do these GS's have any kind of sliders like I see on the bigger sport bikes?


And no, not in vikings territory... This is near Tampa, Florida. Red with the yellow wheels could be cool, or black and yellow.

They don't come stock with any mounts for sliders, but there are a few options out there now (yours is a naked GS, so it's much easier than the faired version).

I dunno about the red with yellow, but the black could definitely work.

Could be a Batman bike!

New Tank = $200
New Gauges = $200
New Rear Brake system = $75
New Paint = $100 + lots of labor
Does not include issues you don't know about.

Something to think about...

Yes, R&G Racing make some frame sliders for the GS500. 

Quote from: adidasguy on May 30, 2012, 12:35:12 AM

There are also some engine guards for these bikes out there too.

Quote from: Cal Price on October 19, 2006, 01:22:48 AM
These are my "Rentec" engine bars. There are plenty out there if you trawl around the on-line suppliers.

- Bboy