It's easy to get mixed up with that idle screw in terms of what direction is in and what is out, because it is essentially upside down.

I have to leave for the night.  Good Luck.  I'll catch up tomorrow.

Here's is something I posted in another thread recently.  Perhaps it will help a bit?

Quote from: Kerry on June 05, 2012, 09:52:57 AMRegarding the idle screw ... with the bike NOT running, twist the throttle a bit and then close it again, over and over.  Each time you close the throttle you should hear a small "tick" sound when the butterfly link between the carbs contacts the upper tip of the idle screw.  If you can't hear it, either your surroundings are too loud or there is no contact being made.  Adjust the screw upwards until you CAN hear the "tick" sound.  From this starting point, adjusting the screw upwards should definitely make a difference in the RPM at idle.

[Bonus: Once you get things adjusted so the (warmed-up) bike idles around 1250-1300 with the choke off, see if there is any slack in the throttle cable.  Do you have to rotate the throttle a little bit before it "grabs" and starts to increase the engine RPMs?  If so, use the adjuster nuts near the handlebar to take out the slack.  Make sure that you can still hear the "tick" when you're done.]