no wonder see i was using the clicker and it was garbage... so which of the other twontypes is more recommended?

Quote from: cbcanada on June 12, 2012, 08:51:53 PM
no wonder see i was using the clicker and it was garbage... so which of the other twontypes is more recommended?

The dial type is going to be much more expensive. The gauge (bar type) will be pretty affordable.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-1-2-and-3-8-in-drive-0-150-ft-lbs-range-beam-type-torque-wrench/_/N-25fw?itemIdentifier=914019_0_0_

$12 and lifetime warranty.

Could also get something like this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-3-8-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter/_/N-25fw?itemIdentifier=362559_0_0_

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on June 12, 2012, 07:04:38 PM
yup. a cheater bar is your friend there. but length of said bar has to be calculated. ( very easy to do)

Calculated why? What difference would it make? I don't get it.

I was already lost, as soon as he said "cheater bar"   

Quote from: cbrfxr67 on June 11, 2012, 11:11:35 AM
Central is a good company & sells well and I rarely see them come back.  3T317 3/8DR 20-200in lbs, jobber is 28.29,...suggested is 42.43.  Or 3T415 1/2" dr 10-150 ft lbs jobber 29.64 and suggested 44.46.

Thanks for the recommendation. This is what I'll use when I replace my base gasket.

Quote from: Juan1 on June 13, 2012, 07:58:19 AM

Quote from: cbrfxr67 on June 11, 2012, 11:11:35 AM
Central is a good company & sells well and I rarely see them come back.  3T317 3/8DR 20-200in lbs, jobber is 28.29,...suggested is 42.43.  Or 3T415 1/2" dr 10-150 ft lbs jobber 29.64 and suggested 44.46.

Thanks for the recommendation. This is what I'll use when I replace my base gasket.

So you've decided to go with the wrench more than one person has suggested you not buy?

A beam-type torque wrench is not only easier to use, half the price of that one, but also much more reliable.

Quote from: Phil B on June 13, 2012, 06:46:42 AM
I was already lost, as soon as he said "cheater bar"   

A "cheater bar" is basically anything you can slip over the end of a wrench to make the handle longer/bigger to add extra leverage.

A "breaker bar" or "cheater bar" could also refer to a "pull handle" or one of these:

reason i say length has to be calculated is one of my teachers at MMI, and this guy had an ivy leage education. made mention if you use a crows foot, ( looks like the open end wrech) to set it up so it sits 90 degrees to the wrench end. ( left or right) but yes a cheater bar. ( usually a pipe) also usually doubles length of wrench, i tried this once. used my clicker wrench i had, with AND without a cheater bar. and purposely tried to break a bolt. ( or strip it) seems i didnt have to go nearly as far using the cheater bar to do so. im like wtfh? 80lb/ft is 80lb/ft regardless if wrench applying said torque is a foot long or 4ft long. it still is 80lb/ft

Correct. Though, the basic principle is typically taught in high school physics. The actual math can't be accurately calculated until you have a calculus course or two under your belt (iirc, the math can be estimated by the use of high school algebra & geometry).

course it would be far easier to break a bolt with a 4' wrench versus a 1 foot wrench .

Quote from: Kijona on June 13, 2012, 10:36:01 AM
So you've decided to go with the wrench more than one person has suggested you not buy?

Yes.  If you read the original post, you'll see that I already have a beam type.

Quote from: Juan1 on June 17, 2012, 12:53:05 PM

Quote from: Kijona on June 13, 2012, 10:36:01 AM
So you've decided to go with the wrench more than one person has suggested you not buy?

Yes.  If you read the original post, you'll see that I already have a beam type.

I'd stick with that or get the dial type or that little box I showed you. Jessie (BaltimoreGS), who is a professional mechanic, advises people against using those types of wrenches too - especially a "sub 40 dollar" one. You're just asking for trouble.