Ok I have an 89 model that had bad rod bearing.  Found a 09 or 10 engine with virtually no miles.  Engine is in the frame...just looking for some wiring help...I thought I had everything hooked up correctly but I turn the key and hit the button and nada.  I can jump the solenoid and it will crank over just fine.  I guess I need some wiring harness diagrams to compare.  Found the ones over at Wiki but I don't know what the EK, EV and EL,M,N,P,R,S,T models represent.  Just need some help on getting the wiring diagrams figured out and mating the two together. 

Thanks.

Main thing is the new motor has a single timing pickup.
You'll need to take the dual timing pickup and the timing rotor from your old engine and transplant them into the new one.
Otherwise you'd have to swap wiring harness to use the new single timing pickup and also change out your handlebar controls (different connectors).
Other than that, the motors are compatible.

I have swapped the handle bar controls, but I guess I am confused why I would have to change the timing pickups....I have everything off the new bike except the tank, so I have to use the old petcock setup, lights, and the ignition and key....everything else is from the new bike....but I don't have new style tach, have old kickstand and old rear brake and switch.  I admit I am not a motorcycle mechanic, but I am not sure why I would have to change the timing pickups.   I suppose most of the problem is that I did not have this stated in the original post......sorry for my brain fart.  I am going to do the PAIR block off as well...any electrical I have to deal with doing this??

I guess the ignition is the main thing....I hear the solenoid click when I turn on the key, but when I hit the button...deadness....I just need to see if I have mated the old wiring from the ignition to the right wires with the connector.

Also swapped out rear shock with SV unit!!!!

OK. If you swapped the wiring harness then the newer CDI is what goes with the new engine.

So you're saying it doesn't crank when you press the starter, but the starter relay clicks?
What will prevent running then is the side stand, clutch and neutral switches.

If in gear and side stand down, bike will not run but starter will click. There is a side stand relay. if it is quiet and bike is on center stand and in gear, raise and lower the side stand. You should hear that small relay click.

Clutch switch should be in in order to start bike. If starter relay is clicking, you're OK there. Clutch switch interrupts the starter relay when button pressed.

Wiring diagram is helpful. It is on the WIKI and various places. (I keep one here so I always have it handy http://s1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Assorted/?action=view&current=SCAN0004_smaller.png)

reading you again, it sounds like you're hearing the side stand relay click when you turn the key. That's the only one that always can come on with the key. If nothing when starter pressed, then probably the clutch safety switch. As per my video, those things will get broken if you try to remove the lever without removing the switch first. Short the clutch safety switch and see what happens.
GS videos here: http://www.youtube.com/user/Lajko1?feature=mhee

Ok...now we are getting somewhere....I will check those out.

Thanks

Still no go.  Wish one of you guys was closer to help me sort it out.  There are some plugs that do not have mates.  Ugh!!!

PHOTOS! Please!

Pix of plugs and we can identify them.
Pix of what you have and we can spot something wrong.

Ok thanks....didn't know if that would be too annoying to try.  I will get on it.

WE LOVE PICTURES!

Rather than posting each photo...let's try this and see if it works.

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p186/drdfblackm/Suzuki%20GS500E/

Not sure the question, but here are some observations.
1:?
2-4: Clutch safety switch. Sort wires together for now if there is no working safety switch on the clutch perch.
5:
6: The other coil wire. Coil has 2 connections. One is connected, the other is not
7-8: Though those appear to be to the gauges. See upper left of the wiring diagram. 3 pin, 6 pin and 2 single barrel connectors.
9: hard to tell. Most likely left turn signal. (Only pair that is blk and blk/wht)
11: Looks like right turn signal (Only pair that is green and blk/wht)
12. That's an easy one. Oil pressure switch and pulse coil (See lower center of wiring diagram)
13. Rear brake
15. Regulator to battery
16. Stator to regulator
17. Ground to wiring harness
19. Connect right one to center one. That is, stator to regulator. Left one goes to wiring harness

Everything is color coded. The wiring diagram (in color) makes it easy to figure out where things go. Most every connector goes only one place. Hard to get any of them wrong.

Did I pass the test? What was my score?

Fail....bike still does not crank with switch....let me get things plugged up and see what is left and explain what I have left.

DUH!!!!!   WIN!!!!!!

Did not jump the clutch safety switch....all good....I can continue again!!!!!!

Now have to wait for the PAIR block off plates to come.  I have 2 pair...anyone need a pair of PAIR block offs??

Ok....PAIR block offs on....exhaust on....tank connected....gas on.....no start.

Check spark...nope!!!

What are some easy things I can check first.  I am 100% sure there is something I missed but I want some help diagnosing.

#5097

New pictures?

In past posts: did you connect both wires to the coils?
Be sure the timing pickups are there and the correct ones.

Does it crank? Just no run? If so, did you have the fuel in PRIME for a minute to fill the carbs with gas? Did you try starter fluid into the air intake? Did you check for spark by pulling a plug and seeing if it sparks against the frame?

More details will help.

Ummm...did you read my post at all?   Not trying to be a duck....I do the same thing, I read what I want to read and post without reading everything but......

NO SPARK!

I checked for spark....that is the problem...cranks fine and there is gas....just no spark...just want to know what I could have missed...coils are plugged in. 

Any ideas?

#5099

Its Ok to be a duck. Like they say - how do you get down from an elephant? You don't. You get down from a duck.

It was unclear - there was a "no start" and a "no spark". Many people post things in a somewhat vague way. I just wanted to be sure.

Did you check both plugs for spark?

Ignition starts at the timing pickups. Be sure they are there and OK. The single pickup and the timing rotor with 5 or so tabs on it. Not the same as the dual pickup and rotor with one tab in your old engine. Be sure connected under the seat.

Then things go to the ICU. Be sure  that is properly seated in  the connector. Shove it in hard.

Ground: There is a small ground wire from the battery to the wiring harness in addition to the fat wire connected  to the motor. Be sure that is there and connected.

Not much else can be wrong. If ICU or timing pickup is bad, then no spark.

The bike can run with disconnected throttle position sensor, the 2 extra wires from neutral switch, and some of the other stuff.

Cool....thanks....and I love that quote!!!!

I will get to checking.

I know I am close.

Quote from: adidasguy on June 13, 2012, 02:59:56 PM
Main thing is the new motor has a single timing pickup.
You'll need to take the dual timing pickup and the timing rotor from your old engine and transplant them into the new one.
Otherwise you'd have to swap wiring harness to use the new single timing pickup and also change out your handlebar controls (different connectors).
Other than that, the motors are compatible.

as well as mount the oil cooler