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Edit #2

Compression Numbers:
Right: 135psi
Left: 140psi



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EDIT
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Bomsquad and Mitch79 Solved my problem. The solution was to put the old shims back in and err on the side of too much valve clearance rather than too little.
Thanks guys!
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http://youtu.be/cLa0nJZ7YGs

In the video I show how the bike is acting up a valve adjustment.

The two exhaust valves and the left intake valve had 0.1mm clearance (0.08mm is the maximum, right?). I replaced them with the next sizes up (2.75's for the exhaust and 2.65 for the intake).  After installing the new larger shims, I remeasured and my smallest feeler gauge (0.38) would not fit.

Did I measure wrong?
Do tight valves cause erratic idle?
Do tight valves cause rev-lag?

Ok, just watched you video.
Valve clearances by the book are 0.03-0.08mm for intake and exhaust.
GSjack experimented with opening the clearances up to 0.08-0.13mm on the exhaust side to slow valve seat recession with good results. I and may others here use those numbers.

Your 0.1mm on the two exhaust valves is perfect, put the original valve shims back in.
Shim the two intakes to 0.03-0.08mm.
Get a new set of feeler gauges that measures down to at lest 0.03mm or you just guessing.
Make sure all you measurements are done with the engine stone cold, preferably left overnight. If it''s still warm you won't get an accurate reading.
Sync your carbs when your done.

Here's a video how to by BaltimoreGS, well worth watching. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIL0eMzRPF8

Hope that helps

Quote from: mitch79 on August 13, 2012, 07:26:01 PM

Your 0.1mm on the two exhaust valves is perfect, put the original valve shims back in.
Shim the two intakes to 0.03-0.08mm.
Get a new set of feeler gauges that measures down to at lest 0.03mm or you just guessing.
Make sure all you measurements are done with the engine stone cold, preferably left overnight. If it''s still warm you won't get an accurate reading.
Sync your carbs when your done.

Here's a video how to by BaltimoreGS, well worth watching. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIL0eMzRPF8

Hope that helps

Bummer, wasted $20 on shims I didn't need. I thought 0.1mm clearance was causing my 48mpg.

BalitmoreGS's videos are great! I followed it.

For fun. A time lapse video of me putting the new shims in and nervously pressing the start button.
http://youtu.be/KnEAj3VM0_E

My bike does that lag thing when its cold. Goes away when its warm. Also does that when it doesnt have enough gas in the tank so maybe check that

Quote from: Guymo on August 13, 2012, 10:51:21 PM
My bike does that lag thing when its cold. Goes away when its warm. Also does that when it doesnt have enough gas in the tank so maybe check that

Checked the gas tank. It's 2/3 full. Filled it last week and only went 43 miles since.

I think the symptoms you describe in your video are consistent with tight valves.  Someone can correct me if I'm wrong.  I think the inconsistent idle and lag could be due to valves not closing completely once warm.

And after doing some more research, I am pretty much convinced that your exhaust valves are just too tight.  Definitely on the loose side of the recommend or even a bit looser as mentioned is better.  Also, when you measure, make sure your aren't forcing your feeler gauges in.  They should slide in with a small amount of resistance.

Quote from: bombsquad83 on August 14, 2012, 11:04:31 AM
And after doing some more research, I am pretty much convinced that your exhaust valves are just too tight.  Definitely on the loose side of the recommend or even a bit looser as mentioned is better.  Also, when you measure, make sure your aren't forcing your feeler gauges in.  They should slide in with a small amount of resistance.

Thanks bombsquad! I'm going to put the original valve shims back in. I'm going to make videos as I go.
I made sure not to force the feeler gauges in.

MPG question: Does too much clearance contribute to low MPG? I think, once I have the old shims in, I'm going to start a new thread to track down the cause of my low MPG.

48 mpg doesn't seem all that low to me.  I have gotten between 43-49 mpg with a 15 tooth sprocket, 125 mains, 40 pilots, 1 washer, and everything else stock.

First thing I would check with low gas mileage would be the plugs.  If they look more black than brown, then your mixture is getting too rich.  In which case, I would first check the float heights in the carbs.

Another test would be a compression test, and adjust your clutch to make sure it's not slipping.  Just throwing things out there...

Quote from: bombsquad83 on August 14, 2012, 01:00:59 PM
48 mpg doesn't seem all that low to me.  I have gotten between 43-49 mpg with a 15 tooth sprocket, 125 mains, 40 pilots, 1 washer, and everything else stock.

First thing I would check with low gas mileage would be the plugs.  If they look more black than brown, then your mixture is getting too rich.  In which case, I would first check the float heights in the carbs.

Another test would be a compression test, and adjust your clutch to make sure it's not slipping.  Just throwing things out there...

You were right. Old shims worked. Here's proof.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te6-I81BpxU

Plugs: They do not look black or brown. They look tan. I ordered a par of the Brisk Plugs that Addidas guy is doing cartwheels over.
I'll let the clutch cable out a bit.
I don't have a compression tester. Will any generic Harbor Freight or auto-parts store compression tester work?

Quote from: BrianKD on August 14, 2012, 09:50:47 PMI don't have a compression tester. Will any generic Harbor Freight or auto-parts store compression tester work?

I've built a compression tester for my car, but that doesn't work on my bike. So I just use my finger.

Quote from: RossLH on August 14, 2012, 10:18:26 PM

Quote from: BrianKD on August 14, 2012, 09:50:47 PMI don't have a compression tester. Will any generic Harbor Freight or auto-parts store compression tester work?

I've built a compression tester for my car, but that doesn't work on my bike. So I just use my finger.

How does that work? If your finger pops off, the compression is good?

Correct! It'll spit your finger out with a nice *POP*

Quote from: RossLH on August 15, 2012, 07:06:12 AM
Correct! It'll spit your finger out with a nice *POP*

Haha...uh...does it hurt?

Nah, man. It'll surprise you the first couple times, but it doesn't hurt. Just don't lock your finger. That's actually how the Hayne's manual says to test compression, believe it or not.

Quote from: BrianKD on August 14, 2012, 09:50:47 PM

Quote from: bombsquad83 on August 14, 2012, 01:00:59 PM
48 mpg doesn't seem all that low to me.  I have gotten between 43-49 mpg with a 15 tooth sprocket, 125 mains, 40 pilots, 1 washer, and everything else stock.

First thing I would check with low gas mileage would be the plugs.  If they look more black than brown, then your mixture is getting too rich.  In which case, I would first check the float heights in the carbs.

Another test would be a compression test, and adjust your clutch to make sure it's not slipping.  Just throwing things out there...

You were right. Old shims worked. Here's proof.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te6-I81BpxU

Plugs: They do not look black or brown. They look tan. I ordered a par of the Brisk Plugs that Addidas guy is doing cartwheels over.
I'll let the clutch cable out a bit.
I don't have a compression tester. Will any generic Harbor Freight or auto-parts store compression tester work?

Tan or light brown spark plugs are good.  I assume they were dry with no oily residue as well?  None of the auto parts stores had a compression tester that they loaned out that would work for our bike.  I ended up having to buy one to get the right threads.  I kind of doubt you have a compression problem though.  Even if it was a little low it wouldn't be worth doing anything about it at this point.

I would just keep riding.  If the mileage continues to perform poorly (remember I mentioned that 48 mpg really isn't that bad?), then I would check some more things out.  I would look at your float height with the clear U-tube method described many times on this forum before anything else.

Quote from: bombsquad83 on August 15, 2012, 11:27:51 AM
None of the auto parts stores had a compression tester that they loaned out that would work for our bike.  I ended up having to buy one to get the right threads.  I kind of doubt you have a compression problem though.  Even if it was a little low it wouldn't be worth doing anything about it at this point.

I would just keep riding.  If the mileage continues to perform poorly (remember I mentioned that 48 mpg really isn't that bad?), then I would check some more things out.  I would look at your float height with the clear U-tube method described many times on this forum before anything else.

Found a compression tester that came with a 12mm adapter at National Auto.
Right: 135psi
Left: 140psi

Baltimore GS said, in his compression test video, that compression should be between 142-199psi.

I'll check the float height next.