2009 GS500F      11,786 miles.

So I'm constantly having to adjust my chain tension and I've noticed that the tension varies dramatically as i turn the rear wheel. Like I'll free spin the wheel and it will catch a tight spot and almost stop. If I let my bike sit for a couple days, I notice a rusty haze over my chain.

Now I have completely cleaned my chain and relubed it well to try and solve the problem but its no better.

I want a new chain.

So I want a gold X-Ring chain, stock size. I'm not changing sprockets

What freaking brand? I keep hearing really good and really bad about different brands and I cant find any professional comparisons.

DID, EK, RK, Renthal?

I've been finding some awesome deals on all of these chains and I'm not looking to go cheap either. What are the top?

EDIT: I'm also not going to be able to use a rivet master link. I don't have the tool for that and I'll be doing this myself in the garage. Don't know If that makes a difference on what would be available to me.

#5268

CHANGE YOUR SPROCKETS!

Your chain is bad - kinked and locked up links. It has been wearing out your sprockets. A new chain will not last as long with worn sprockets.

At a minimum, change the front sprocket. It is smaller and is subject to far more wear than the rear. Changing the front is super simple. At least do that if you don't want to remove the rear wheel.

BUT YOU SHOULD CHANGE BOTH!

I think they are all OK. I haven't used Renthal but the others work fine as long as you keep them clean and lubed. Well, that goes for any brand of chain.

I was leaning on replacing the front since they are so cheap. The rear looks fine though. Still has sharp edges and theres no rounding of the teeth that i can see. This has only been a problem for maybe 1000 miles or so at the most. Currently the GS is sitting and my cruiser is getting the love it needs. I'm patient to get it fixed.

#5270

Sounds OK. Front sprocket is easy to replace.
Front sprockets are inexpensive and I have a box of them with hardly any wear.

Cut off the OEM chain as it has no master link.
Check whether your new one uses a clip link or a rivet link. If you don't have a rivet tool, get the clip link.

Well after reading I think I do want a rivet type master link.

What tool do I need to "rivet" the master link? I'm seeing tools from $20 to $120.

I've got a Dremel to cut the old chain so I don't need a chain breaker.

A bad chain can damage the sprocket, which will in turn damage a new chain.

And while your issue may have only serviced recently, that is only the signed you are aware of. Damage has been being done for longer than that.

I suggest changing Both front and rear sprockets with the new chain. But at the very least, change the front sprocket as well, it cops the most wear.

Michael

I'm happy with DID X-ring, but I suspect any major brand will be fine - brand-of-the-week chinky knockoffs, probably less fine.

With a reasonable degree of care assembling them, and preflight inspections, master links are not a problem IME, but suit yourself.

In general, the $20 tool is intended for someone who will use it once or 5 times, and the $120 tool is for a mechanic who will use it once a week or more. The $120 is often nicer to use. But at one use every couple of years, it's hard to justify at home, unless you have money to burn. Might be cheaper to have that bit done at a shop. I've riveted non-motorcycle roller chain with a ball-pein hammer and an anvil (8lb sledge will work for the backside if you don't have an anvil) but it takes a degree of skill/care.

If you take the swingarm off and grease the swingarm bearings, you can buy a pre-riveted chain (it's what Suzuki seems to think you will do if you buy their chain.)

I will tell you from experience,don't go cheap on the the chain tool.I have a RK chain tool ( about $125 ) but worth every penny.I change my chain and sprockets ( DL1000 ) about once a year and this tool makes it ALOT easier !!.


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EK has screw type master link that i put on my zrx1100. Going on 8,000 miles with it, no issues. Halfway down the page on the link:           

http://www.ekchain.jp/feature/index.html

How decent are the EK chains? The 520srx and that screw master link would save me some money.

EK are good enough! .. most of the modern big brand chains will serve you fine if they are maintained properly ..

had a EK on my dirtbike .. never faulted ... it got some hard hours too ...

but really .. DID, EK, RK, Tsubaki ... if its correct size/type/strength (and not a cheap back shed from halfway up a mountain in the desert job) ... they all work fine ... everyone has their fav.. just like fav chain lube or cleaner or engine oil or brake fluid or etc etc etc ..

all chains will wear .. cant avoid it... just slow it down a little with good maint .. if you dont like this one.. try another next time... doubt you will trash any proper chain quickly unless you neglect it 

Any of the major brands should be fine. Not sure you really need an exotic o-ring design, but it won't hurt. Main thing is to maintain the chain, and to make sure that you install the master link correctly.

With a clip, that means the clip is fully seated, and pointing the right direction. My recollection is that you're supposed to use a special plier with clip-links.

With a rivet master link, that means making sure you don't over-press the master, which will result in a kinked link and early chain failure. A vernier caliper or micrometer helps here.

Ordered an EK SRX chain. Should be here today!

It comes with a clip link but I also ordered a rivet master link to add once I can afford the tool or if I can find one to borrow.

I have a vernier caliper. Am I wanting the master link to be the same width from outside plate to outside plate as the plates are on the rest of the chain?

Pretty much, yes. You don't really need to worry about it with a clip link, but with the rivet link, measure next to each pin as you press them.