I have a 92 gs500e. It sat for about 3 years before I got it. I went through the carbs replaced the battery changed the oil and cleaned up some electrical issues. Got it running it seemed to be doing well. First scheduled ride with my buddy and it floats an intake valve right as I hit the freeway. By the time I pulled over it was toast, bent valve, broken valve guide got sucked into the cylinder and the piston chomped it right up. Off to the machine shop for a new valve guide! Took 6 weeks to get it back! the machinist felt bad for the sucky customer service and did a complete valve job on the house! Bonus! unfortunately I spent all that time stalking this site and performing mods to the bike, now it's all back together (new pistons and rings and honed the cylinders too) and it won't go! It has K&N lunchbox, 40/127.5 jets 2 turns on mixture screws and 1 washer on the needles. Converted Petcock to vacuum free using the method in the mods section sealed the vacuum port on the left carb with rubber vacuum cap. plugs are covered in heavy black soot and smell like gas. The bike would run and lug at about 5-6 hundred RPM when I would roll on the throttle there was no response. discovered the slides were not opening, removed and cleaned them again lubed with penetrating oil and re-installed. Then I decided to step down my main jets( they were at 147.5) to the current 127.5 removed and cleaned the spark plugs and the bike ran and Idled well and the slides fluttered just fine, I let the bike sit and warm up for 5 min then began reassembling everything as it Idled when I went to put on the air filter it cut out completely and will not start with the airfilter installed. In order to avoid complete destruction of the bike due to the hulk rage I was experiencing. I walked away for the night. I'm sure I forgot all the important details... Any Ideas?

I think the first lifeline would be the ENTER key so you can put some paragraphing into your post.

All that run-on stiff is too hard to follow and read. 

Just because we are on the internet is no excuse to forget about first grade writing stills of proper paragraphing. 

Your main jet has no effect on the bike at idle so this should not matter. It sounds like Your pilot jets are too rich for just an air filter change. If it is still the stock exhaust, there wont be that much of a difference in the carb.

Thanks for the suggestion I will try putting my original pilot jets back in!

Your pilot jets are not too rich.  40 pilots are stock in the UK, and many on this board from the US run them as well for better warm-up times and more dependable idle.  I'm guessing your problem is with your gas level in the bowls.  Check the level of fuel in the bowls with a clear U shaped tube from the carb drain.  It should be even with the float bowl gasket.  If it's over (which I'm guessing it will be), then you will need to adjust or replace your needle valves.

Quote from: 89500inPA on August 19, 2012, 01:14:58 PM
Your main jet has no effect on the bike at idle so this should not matter. It sounds like Your pilot jets are too rich for just an air filter change. If it is still the stock exhaust, there wont be that much of a difference in the carb.

It's true that the main jet does not have much effect on idle, but it's not true that if you have the stock exhaust it won't make much difference.  Changes to the airbox side have much more impact on mixture than changes in the exhaust.  According to the jetting matrix from the wiki, you should use the following jets with the lunchbox and stock exhaust:

pilot 40
main 140
washers 1
turns 2.5

Your experience might vary somewhat on each of these settings, but this is a start.

Thanks for the help!

I put the stock pilots back in before I read your reply. The bike is running now and will respond to the throttle. The slides seem to open appropriately. But the bike is running at 5k rpm and won't drop below that unless I drag the clutch.

Right now I'm running

stock pilot
127.5 main
1 washer on the needle
3 turns on mixture screw
K&N Lunchbox

Am I just way to lean now?

bomb is right, go check your float height and get back to us.

also check if your choke is sticking at all. The air filter is going to make the biggest difference in performance, but your idle wont be affected that much by it. Adding the lbox will require a rejet on the main, but changing the pilot to a 40 is not mandatory. (though recommended.)

Remember: Tuning areas:
1. Everything - carb synchronization
2. Idle-1/4 throttle - pilot system (jet then bleed screws)
3. >1/4- <3/4 mid range  (FLOAT HEIGHT then Needle height (shims/washers))
4. 3/4-WOT top end (Main jet)

Start at the bottom and work your way UP.
40's are good, now set your mixture screws.
then do float height
then mess with the needle
then work on the mains

do not be me. do not do this out of order.

Pilot test: Warm engine, blip the throttle slightly: Does RPM hang up for a few sec?? too lean Does rpm fall or stagger, then resume normal? too rich

That is very informative. I'll have to make a note of all that.

Quote from: Funderb on August 21, 2012, 08:23:55 PM

Start at the bottom and work your way UP.
40's are good, now set your mixture screws.
then do float height
then mess with the needle
then work on the mains

I agree, except I have read that you should find the correct main jet before touching the jet needle.  The main will have some influence on the mixture in the mid range as well.  Always do the float height first though, and make sure it's rock solid.  That will affect just about everything.

Yeah, i could see that they could be interchangeable, the mj has a direct effect on fuel flow at the needle tip, and jet shape and needle shape play a role together. I've never really goofed around with my needle height so i'm not the best source. My mid range has always been usable street wise. not sure how she'd do really racing. 

The mid range could probably be divided in half, the bottom half more to do with float height, top half with needle height.

Float height seems to intrude everywhere though, especially off idle. it really makes a difference. Float height, next to synchro, is probably at the base of the importance pyramid.



BTdubs - Factory pro recommends the way you say, work at the top and towards the bottom, which most definitely is good. I think the theme here is work in order, dont do things willy nilly. The Mj will affect idle if its way out of spec. The problem with street bikes (street - emphasis) is that its hard to dial in the MJ because, at least for me, within a couple seconds of being at WOT im already breaking the law pretty severely. This holds true even for a 250, bikes are fast.
I've always worked from the bottom because its easier, and more do-able on the street. but you are correct, bombsquad.
source:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

Hey, looky there!  I'm quoted in someone signature  .