Quote from: weedahoe on September 14, 2012, 03:41:13 PM
carbs are pretty simple devices. its hard to believe it is broken beyond usage.

+1 on what weedahoe said.

Unless the broken air screw is still in the carbs and can't be removed at all, there's really no reason I can think of to replace the whole thing so long as the main carb body is in good shape -- and it doesn't sound like your mechanic said anything about the carbs other than the screw problem.

Well he said he popped out the broken screw and replaced it with the new one...I want to take it all apart but I wanted to wait till winter since I don't have another set of carbs.  My main concern is that my bike is running way too lean

Quote from: mab32 on September 15, 2012, 08:23:29 AM
Take your bike and run away from the shop.

If that mechanic was worth a sh@t, you could ride away from the shop.

Seriously, putting on and taking off carbs isn't a big deal! From taking the tank off to carbs off I can do it in 10 minutes. And that is getting a drink in the middle cause it is so danged hot. Give me 10 and I'd have 'em back in . To bad your not in Florida! I'd do it for some gatorade LOL! Run don't walk away from that mechanic 

Oh, and I'm a girl!

Mary

duly noted..i Will look into taking it apart myself...My one other concern...Since my bike is running lean should i stop riding it entirely or do you think its fine as long as i keep it casual :p

Quote from: junk301 on September 15, 2012, 09:34:42 PM
duly noted..i Will look into taking it apart myself...My one other concern...Since my bike is running lean should i stop riding it entirely or do you think its fine as long as i keep it casual :p

Comes lean from the factory. If it's something like that you'll be fine.

Michael

Both cylinders need to be firing and running before you can run it on a 'casually running lean' situation.  Running lean, you may get backfiring when you let of the throttle, uneven acceleration, hard starts with a lot of choke, etc... If you aren't so lean to get some of these symptoms, or these symptoms don't bother you, then ride away.  I'm sure running too lean for too long can't be good on the engine, though especially if it is backfiring often.

- Bboy

The only thing I let a mech touch is my tires.

I've payed my dues with messups from previos mechanics. I've seen the ones that say we usually only work on Fuel injected..

This forum is great, and you can pretty much do anything yourself.

Carbs are a pain but usually you can resolve the issue yourself instead of wasting money with a mechanic whos only going to do the same thing you would do.

This post and its ilk are what caused me to start doing carb work in the first place .... like 10 years ago ...

@ Junk301: If you think something needs to be extracted/checked/corrected/fixed in the carbs - like a busted and stuck air screw, let me know. If its a simple clean and rejet I sell jet kits for that, custom to your setup, $25 shipped in US. $28-29 world wide. PM me for any info on either.

You have provided too little detail to get me to trouble shoot in the post.

Cool.
Buddha.

Hey,

I'm not entirely sure how to go about troubleshooting this....I just bought a compression tester and will post those values as soon as i test the cylinders...I am positive one of the cylinders is not firing properly..Also my bike has 33000km and the valves have never been adjusted...There is a great video from gsbaltimore who has a great tutorial...The other confusion is that my bike wont idle...I don't really understand why because the carbs were cleaned...fuel mixture screw replaced..many thanks on everyones posts!

I just used the compression tester and it turns out that the left cylinder is measuring at 150psi...but the right (not sure if this is possible) is only at 35psi...Something that does come to mind is that this was a gradual problem.. starting 1.5 years ago power has been dropping little by little

Try the right side again with the compression test if you haven't already. Maybe you didn't get a good seal or something. I find it pretty hard to believe that the bike could run on one cylinder at 35 PSI. If it truly is at 35 PSI you may have bigger problems than the carbs.
Also what is the result of the spark test? Are you spark plugs firing strong or not?
Final point, did you mess with the throttle position sensor

(if you have one on your bike)? That could cause major running issues. Hope every thing goes better for you from here on out.

Quote from: junk301 on September 20, 2012, 12:10:36 PM
Also my bike has 33000km and the valves have never been adjusted...

And 35psi in one cylinder. A burnt valve would make perfect sense to me.

Quote from: Paulcet on September 21, 2012, 06:15:36 AM

Quote from: junk301 on September 20, 2012, 12:10:36 PM
Also my bike has 33000km and the valves have never been adjusted...

And 35psi in one cylinder. A burnt valve would make perfect sense to me.

Yea I was either thinking that or stuck valves..How difficult is it to replace a burnt valve and how costly is it...I can do the valve adjustment on my own but have never replaced a valve before..

Quote from: Toogoofy317 on September 15, 2012, 09:20:27 PM
Oh, and I'm a girl!

Mary

Hey guys I have the option to buy the cylinder head and valves...complete unit? Would there be anything else causing the compression issue...?

Pistons? Like cracked or blown rings?
Crack in jugs?
Badly scratched cylinder wall?
Bad gasket between head and jugs?
Really tight valves?

Ok to start diagnosing the problem, i will add some oil to the cylinder to try and pinpoint the issue.  Will keep updating.

If you remove the carbs and exhaust, you can look in the head at the valves. While not showing everything, if there is a serious valve problem you probably will see something quite wrong.

If you cover the intake with your palm and manually turn the engine (clockwise only with the timing rotor and 19mm wrench) you will feel a strong suction. If not - problem of valve not opening or piston not pulling in (oh, have spark plug IN so air doesn't go in and out of that hole). If you feel a strong outward push of air - a problem with intake valve not closing.

Can do same with exhaust port. There should only be air pushing out - exhaust - nothing sucking in.

thanks adidas guy..i will try that out this weekend and will update. many thanks