how hard is it? and what should i be looking out for?

i don't have a stand or anything...is it possible to take off both wheels with just a center stand?...any creative ideas of how to support the bike???

Thanks...I need to replace my tire SOON!!!...really appreciate the help...in advance

not too bad.  I figured it out first try w/ no probs, no (immediate) help, and not looking at the manual.

The hardest part is to get the chain off the sprocket.  Basically, remove cotter pin, remove left-side nut, pull out bolt/axlethingy.  Make sure you keep track of where everything goes... not too hard, since only about 6 pieces.  Play with it 'til you get the chain off, and you're done.

I don't recommend ever taking off both wheels.  You can take off just the back wheel with it on the centerstand.  it looks really strange, but as long as nobody sits on the bike or knocks it over you should be fine, it's pretty stable.

When you take off the front wheel, I recommend using a stand of some sort under the front of the frame to hold it up.  You could maybe get away with putting the whole thing on blocks (blocks in front and behind the centerstand) if you really had to take off both at the same time, but generally you can get away with one at a time much easier.

Don't worry, you can take off the front and back at the same time.   I did it for my tire change, no problems.
You will need a hex rench of metric sizes 22mm and down.

1) Bike on center stand

2) Prop the front up (pull the front wheel off the ground) on a brick and a 2" piece of wood (cut "2 by 4") to be placed under the oil drain plug. (the engine) Now the bike has both wheels in the air.

3) Take off front tire (I take it you know how to fo this...)

4) Put a pice of plastic in the caliper to keep the pads from touching

5) Loosen the chain tension screws (1st note the placement of the axle washer ugainst the marks on the swing arm.) The chain should now be loose (more then the normal 2-3cm of travel)

6) Loosen, but don't remove the axle nut (after taking off the cotter pin.)

7) Remove rear calliper bolts (x2) that hold it on to the calliper bracket.

8 ) Remove the cotter pin for the "calliper stay arm" and loosen the nut (don't remove.)

9) Swing the rear calliper out of the way (It's holding by the "calliper stay arm"). Put a peice of plastick in this one too.

10) Roll the wheel forward (you can now do this b/c you loosened the chain adjustment nuts.) and de-rail the chain. (don't get it too dirty as it will drop on the ground when you do this.)

11) Now you can remove the rear axle, but keep track of the order of parts that go on the axle. [from right to left: axle bolt, axle washer (odd shape with tick mark), swing arm, caliper bracket, wheel spacer, wheel, the other wheel spacer(fit's into wheel), swing arm, axle washer (odd shaped with tick mark), washer, axle nut, cotter pin.]

12) Roll the wheel out. I would put the axle back on the bike with all the parts in order. ( - the wheel)

That's it. To put it back on do the reverse, but remember that you need two new cotter pins for the back and on for the fron tires. They are very cheep about $0.60 for 20 cotter pins at most hardware stores. Get the right length and width pins (width counts, b/c they have to fit the whole in the exle.)

Another tip: When putting the wheel back, when you are up to tightening the chain, bring it to a tick mark before the one you had it set on from the very begining (mine was on the 4th from the back, so I started on the 5th from the back). Then pull back on the axle to tighten up the chain a bit and snug up the axle bolt, but don't overtighten (we still need to tighten the chain, so the axle needs to move)

Using the chain tightening adjusters, align the wheel so that the tick marks on both sides of the swing arm are at exactly the same position. (and snug), Now give both the nuts on eather side the same amount of turns (1/2 a turn on the right and 1/2 a turn on the left...ect.) Constantly check the chain tightness so that you end up with 2-3cm of travel in the midle of the chain when your rear wheel is off the ground ( Over-tightening the chain will effect handling and make the chain wear faster especialy when your rear suspension is flexed...)

After you have the correct chain tention Tighten the axle nut all the way, and put in your 3 cotter pins. Make sure all bolts (especialy calliper bolts) are tight (don't snap them... )

That's it have fun and be patient while working.
Cheers
-Denis S.

Thanks for the write-up Denis!    Great idea to put plastic spacers between the brake pads ... just in case.   :x

Just a couple of comments:

1) I've never found it necessary to loosen the "chain tension screws".  Unless the chain is adjusted too tight to being with, the axle should pull out with a little wiggling at most.  If you can't grab the hex head on the right end of the axle because it's tight up against the swingarm, tap the left end of the axle (after removing the nut) with a wooden/plastic mallet until you can get a grip on it.

One nice benefit of not loosening the adjuster plates ("chain tension screws") is that you don't usually have to re-tighten them when you reinstall the wheel.  But it does make it a little harder to get the chain back on the sprocket.

2) I have also never loosened the rear caliper mounting nuts.  Perhaps this gives you some extra clearance?  I have just rotated the entire caliper out of the way when moving the wheel in or out of place.

WOW ..THANKS DENIS!!!

I printed it out and will follow it when I take my wheels off...THANKS!!!

just one question though...what happens when the brake pads touch???

You'll have an awful hard time to separate them again to reinsert the rotor. That's also why you should never touch the brake levers with the wheels removed.

A piece of thin plastic hose (fuel hose) works well as a spacer.

Quote from: Frostjust one question though...what happens when the brake pads touch???

See the message thread cant get brake pads open!!.

I put a small piece of 1/4" plywood between the pads everytime I remove the wheels. They are long enough to pry the pads open a little more if I need to without damaging the pads. It is a snug fit so they do not fall out.

when in doubt, go to wally world and buy a set of cheap 2 ton jack stands more than enuff for your bike.  :lol:

im one of the reatrds who pressed the front brake while the front tire was on...

i now owe 80 dollars for a used  full caliper(it looks like shaZam!       but much cheaper)               because after a while of stuggling i had stirpped the inside of the be\lleder valve and was told " i must replace"

damn i hate my life

Quote from: FrostWOW ..THANKS DENIS!!!

I printed it out and will follow it when I take my wheels off...THANKS!!!

just one question though...what happens when the brake pads touch???

Dr. Egon Spengler: There's something very important I forgot to tell you.
Dr. Peter Venkman: What?
Dr. Egon Spengler: Don't cross the streams.
Dr. Peter Venkman: Why?
Dr. Egon Spengler: It would be bad.
Dr. Peter Venkman: I'm fuzzy on the whole good/bad thing. What do you mean "bad"?
Dr. Egon Spengler: Try to imagine all life as you know it stopping instantaneously and every molecule in your body exploding at the speed of light.
Dr. Raymond Stantz: Total protonic reversal.
Dr. Peter Venkman: That's bad. Okay. Alright, important safety tip, thanks Egon.

*grin* I thought this was appropriate :lol:

It's all well covered above, only one thing I would suggest; especially if installing larger than OEM tires.  I always put bike on centerstand and pull rear wheel first and then lift front wheel and put blocks under front of exhaust pipes and pull front wheel.  Reverse when putting back together.

You will appreciate the extra clearance for getting the rear tire in and out with the front wheel on the ground.  Have pulled both wheels on 6 different bikes over the years this way.  No special equipment (like lifts, jacks, etc) required, only need a few wood blocks for blocking up front of bike.

I'm a little confused how the bike with both wheels removed will stay balanced and not tip either forward or backward while I go get my new tires mounted on the rims.  From my understanding of the writeup is it balancing on wood on a brick onto the bottom of the frame or the center stand?

Quote from: vsboxerboy on May 14, 2006, 11:08:53 PM
I'm a little confused how the bike with both wheels removed will stay balanced and not tip either forward or backward while I go get my new tires mounted on the rims.  From my understanding of the writeup is it balancing on wood on a brick onto the bottom of the frame or the center stand?

It's balancing on both. When sitting on the center stand, the GS is front heavy and leans forward. By placing another mounting point in front of the center stand (like the bricks explained above), you stabilize the entire bike. I've done this a couple of times with no problem.