need some help determining why my gs is slipping. Im going to try to describe it the best way possible.
first off, sometimes it catches, so Im thinking maybe the clutch basket needs to be replaced, there are no metal shavings in the case, Im not sure if a worn clutch would do that tho. my clutch feels good, but if I hold into the gas, it revs to fast, and feels like the tire should be spinning alot more. the chain is tight.

First suggestion is go through the procedure on the WIKI to adjust the clutch and clutch cable.

Then see if things change.

If you recently changed oil to one not for a wet clutch, that might be part of the problem.

You would not have to replace the whole clutch basket - just a clutch repair kit of new plates. I think they are around $75 for a good set. maybe the clutch springs, too. Still under $100.

I can't remember the type of oil. It was 10w40 Mobil 1 fully synthetic. It was for motorcycles. But it didn't say wetclutch. And what kind do I need. And would changing to the right one fix it or would I still need the clutch plates replaced?

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Have you done the whole clutch adjustment thing?
Seems that corrects 98% of the clutch issues.
Then check under the clutch cover. Maybe things are all gummed up there. Could be a broken little spring.

Check those things before opening up the right side.

Others say Mobile 1 for motorcycles is OK. Those with it can chime in.

Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 16, 2012, 09:21:08 PM
I can't remember the type of oil. It was 10w40 Mobil 1 fully synthetic. It was for motorcycles. But it didn't say wetclutch. And what kind do I need. And would changing to the right one fix it or would I still need the clutch plates replaced?

Both weights of Mobil1 are fine for wet clutches, for clutch slippage I always suspect the rough adjustment as the most likely place to look if you have correct cable free play. The adjustment of  #6 has to have at least 1/4 turn of free play, when too tight it's the same as pulling in the clutch while you ride. If everything is adjusted correctly and it still slips, at that point I would suspect worn clutch components.

Thanks Steveo for chiming in here.
Backfire Moto tomorrow (well, today since it is 3:12am).

i am going to try to readjust the clutch cable, my clutch feels smooth, very easy to engage. but theres alot of engine movement, vs. tire spin. but I'll be heading back to work soon. also, I noticed sometimes shifting out of first into second, it will just go into neutral instead, instead of in gear.

You say the chain is tight? how tight? maybe too tight?

Not sure if this would give issues on a motorcycle like you described, as I have never really looked into the mechanics of it but :  On a gearless/single rear sprocket bicycle, a really tight chain can cause your sprockets to turn under heavy load without the rear wheel turning.... resulting in less rear wheel output (or none at all) than the input should have made... Apologies if its hard to follow, but its tough to describe without having seen it/experienced it.

Regardless if the above doesn't make sense or act similar on a motorcycle, its definately something that should be in spec for various other reasons. 

If I remember correctly from my last chain adjust/lube, you should have about 1 inch of freeplay in the center of the chain.

Chain adjustment and lube video by another forum member.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSa55bspoS8&

- Bboy

Yeah I have about an inch of free play, its not the chain. I also don't have any bucking of the chain either. But I do understand what your talking about.

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Shouldn't clutch lever be about 1/4" free play?
Seems like you're not able to pull in the clutch enough with so much free play.

Please adjust according to the instructions in the WIKI.

One time during a ride my buddy complained about engine revs increasing while acceleration was lagging. Adjusted his clutch to within spec and - bazinga! - no more problem.

Quote from: Ryanstalin on October 17, 2012, 12:02:40 PM
i am going to try to readjust the clutch cable, my clutch feels smooth, very easy to engage. but theres alot of engine movement, vs. tire spin. but I'll be heading back to work soon. also, I noticed sometimes shifting out of first into second, it will just go into neutral instead, instead of in gear.

most of the time that is due to short shifting, are you an experenced rider?

If I pull up twice and its still in neutral I don't think that's driver error. But I did readjust the clutch and it feels different, I believe I had it pulling to far, in other words, pushing the pushrod to far in. And that's why my clutch had constant pressure, but was still catching some. However I havent tested it yet, its to late. I have drove it the past two days to work.

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My bike rides alot better. So it was just adjusting the clutch. Thanks for the resource to get that fixed

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Keep an eye on it and let us know if you have any more problems; adjusting the clutch is easy enough for just about anyone to understand, and I'm glad you got this straightened out.

If you don't have the rubber clutch cover (see part #18 in the following diagram), you should get one and install it to keep crud and nastiness out of your clutch cable. I've bought several of them over the last 20+ years and installed them on a variety of motorcycles, including my 1980 GS1000G, my 1983 GS450E, my 1976 Honda CB550F,  and my 1981 Yamaha SR500G, just to name a few. I've also installed them on motorcycles belonging to friends; I think the rubber cover helps to keep the cable adjuster locknut (#13 in the same drawing) from coming loose.

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/SUZUKI/1989/Motorcycles/2103_39.gif