So I just got my 89 clipons on, and now its incredibly hard to twist the throttle all the way (not resistance just too far to twist).

Is my only option the SV throttle tube or whatever?

Also with a K&N lunchbox and V&H, I think i'm running really badly lol.

I have super lower power on the low end, 6000-8000 is flat and 8000 up I am okay.

Jets are at 20/60/147.5

Oh and it dies on application of choke,

Update.

Starting it cold is a Buddha Loves You!

Rides a little better when it is cold outside.

at ¼ throttle the bike is slow but okay till about 6000 and wont rev any more in 2nd

at ½ I have full rev range with dead spot between 6000 and 8000 in all gears (haven't tested 5th and 6th due to high speeds but i would not expect any change)

at full throttle its a little worse on the lower end but is okay from 4000-6000 dead from  6-7k then picks up.

The choke is weird... it boggs and almost dies with choke at idle - 3k.

It also has issues running at 2-3K RPM if I try to hold it at 2500 it sounds like it either knocks or missfires and then drops under 2K.

It feels very very slow off the line to say the least... I am used to this bike nearly pulling the front wheel off the line if I am not leaned forward and gas it. (15T front)

Does anyone know the RPM/Throttle position that it uses the different jets?

it sounds a whole lot like your cables are now kinked because they are too long for your application...

I might of said that wrong, the throttle isn't hard to physically twist, my wrist just can't go from where normal position to full throttle.

haha, i see,  well, you can either put less free play into the cable, or... get another throttle tube. they're all over ebay, i don't think you have to get the entire assembly just for the tube. ?? maybe. i dont know for sure.

I think there are a few write ups around here with what tubes will fit. I have a "quick twist" tube that works with my clip ons - but could your bars just be in an awkward position? Even my stock tube didn't hurt my wrist.

True 89 clip-ons or the 90+ European ones take the exact same controls as stock bars.
Sometimes is not positioned correctly, the bar end can rub the end of the grip or tube and make it a little "sticky".

If things are sticky or you can't move things the way they should, check your installation. It is not the throttle tube.

or, option, are you putting a lot of weight on your wrists while you ride?

I would say yes with the clip ons.

Put some graphite in the throttle tube between it and the bar so it slides better?

Seems people aren't reading the 3rd post, the tube moves like a dream, I do know proper riding position but I would say yeah I probably have a bit more weight on my wrist than I should be placing, I was thinking a quick throttle tube would be what I would want, does anyone know the fastest one?

Also any ideas for the jets? They are the biggest problem

Updated first post to reflect issues more accurately.

Squeeze tank with legs/knees.....put belly on tank...support upper body this way.....do not put weight directly on hands/wrists....just take a tiny bit of weight on hands....

Change angle of forearm to throttle....with old bars forearm is almost horizontal...level with ground...with clip-on/clubmans....forearm is more angled so wrist has full motion for throttle..

Cookie

Quote from: crzydood17 on October 23, 2012, 12:01:12 AM
Seems people aren't reading the 3rd post, the tube moves like a dream, I do know proper rising position but I would say yeah I probably have a bit more weight on my wrist than I should be placing, I was thinking a quick throttle tube would be what I would want, does anyone know the fastest one?

Also any ideas for the jets? They are the biggest problem

Updated first post to reflect issues more accurately.

I had the same problem with woodcrafts, the solution to me was just adjustment of the kill/starter switch assembly to let you get the full motion. I had it where I could barely twist all the way, so I just loosened the assembly and moved it "up". However this wasn't really a big deal to me as I live in a place where I rarely can/ want to go wot.

Edit to talk about jetting- how many washers if any and what adjustments to the mix screws? Also, did you check your float height?
And there is an awesome little diagram on the mikuni website that shows which throttle openings use which jets/needles.

Edit two that site is http://www.mikuni.com/fs-carburetor.html and you want the rs carb manual, its 7.1mb. Go to the last page.

Quote
I have super lower power on the low end, 6000-8000 is flat and 8000 up I am okay.

Jets are at 20/60/147.5

To look at your jets:

idle- you're good, you can futz with your mixture screws to get it perfect start at 2.5 turns out and work from there
mid- you're lean, from my research, 65 is ideal for anything with a lunchbox or non-stock filter
main- you're probably rich you should try and bump down to 145

needles- Have you moved them?
float height: Check it and set it, this is imperative for mid range fueling and will hurt your off the line accel if its improperly set.


this is a good quick and dirty for what you ask:

Another option would be just to switch back to your regular handlebars.  Just because most people are enamored with idea of clip-ons doesn't make them automatically better for you.  '89 clip-ons also go for a pretty penny on the open market as I'm sure you know.  Go with what's comfortable and what you like from a functional perspective.  Anything else is just vanity.

As far as the jetting.  Funderb has the right idea.  Check your spark plugs right after a high-rpm, WOT run to check your main jet.  It sounds like you are ok there.  Once you have the main jet correct, then move on to a 1/2 throttle mid-rpm run to check needle position and mid-range jet.  Sounds like you are lean in midrange from the symptoms you describe and this is corroborated by Funderb's post.  Go with a 65 mid and you should be ok.

The 1st gen '99-'02 SV650 throttle tube is what you want ~ all you need is the tube.

You can't open to full throttle with the stock tube without putting your arm in a very awkward position, or re-positioning your grip while turning the throttle to get that last bit.

I like to think Suzuki did this on purpose to make the GS even tamer for newbies...

Aye, I think thats what I will need to do.

Yeah, I think I will go to what the wiki says as far as jets go, it seems to match my symptoms, Hopefully a 65 mid and a 145 main will fix everything.

WOHOOO im an idiot! I took out my 60s and put 147.5s in their place...

Some how my bike was running at 20/147.5/127.5...

And now my bike is amazing... 20/60/147.5 and it freaking tears! so much more power than before!

ahahahahahaha, yeah, id say the mid was a teensy fat....  and WOT was proooobably lean. 


good stuff, bud!

First real ride this morning... I am pulling the front wheel on hard accel if I don't lean forward.

15T probably helps a lot with that. hard shift to 2nd and the front tries to pull again not as bad.

I think we are good!