When you hear periodic grinding at the front sprocket, it is a sign the chain is going bad. Bad by links being tight. Hard to say what causes it: grit, chemicals that made o-rings swell up, or?

One sign is when checking the chain, as you rotate the rear wheel the chain gets tight then loose then tight then loose.

As you rotate the rear wheel, look at the chain. If you start to see things like this, your chain has some bad links. This one is not so bad. I had one once that was so bad, both hands and pliers would not make the links move.

A good cleaning and oiling might help. However, if o-rings have swelled up, nothing will get them to shrink back down.



This is the OEM chain with 8000 miles. Always kept oiled and clean. For the last 500 miles it has been this way. Not getting better or worse. It will get changed when I put new wheels on this week. Going white. New rubber as rear is getting a little squared off due to lots of city riding and not enough twisties to even out the tire wear.

Good to know.  Mine makes noise.  Like a muffled shoosh-shoosh-shoosh.  Sounds like the chain as opposed to the wheel bearings.  Definitely coming from the rear.  I'm due for a new one.  I have the original OEM chain.  I'm at 10,200 miles.  Might be a good winter project.  I'd have to take it to the shop though since I do not have a chain riveting tool. 

Don't trust clip links.  Some do, I do not.

That sound is exactly the chain. It may sound like the rear wheel, but most is probably from the front sprocket as that's where the chain has to bend the most then straighten back out.

You can get a chain with a clip link. Though a chain rivet tool even makes that easier. You might find a rivet only tool for a good price (Harvest Fright?) or come to the Bike Cave!

Bad OEM chains are best cut off. The OEM's do not have any master link. Too much work to remove the swing arm to get a chain off you're just going to throw away.

2370 miles from my house to the space needle.

Edit:  I'll make it there one of these days. WA is one of 10 states I need to visit in the USA. It will be one epic trip.

I'd need a new chain by then. I'll check out horrible freight. Some if their stuff is not bad, but I had one if their angle grinders catch fire in my hand.

So what's better?  Oring or Xring?

 

Quote from: jestercinti on November 08, 2012, 06:56:31 PM
So what's better?  Oring or Xring?

Meh 

Change the sprockets if they look at all worn. Normally change sprockets when you change chain as they wear out together.
You can get a good DID 520-110 chain and sprockets for $60 or so.

You have to loosen the rear tire anyway. Simple to take it off by yourself. Two people make it really easy.

Soon I'll do a video on all that. I'm going to change Suzi's chain and wheels so might as well show how to do it.

You guys bring up a good point. I need to be looking for me a new set for spring too. Ive got 9K on my bike and it too is the original chain and sprockets

Quote from: jestercinti on November 08, 2012, 06:56:31 PMSo what's better?  Oring or Xring?

someone at a shop told me that x-rings hold lubricant better/longer, but he may have just been trying to sell me the more expensive product. i personally use x-rings because thats what i've been using from the start and my dad recommended them over anything else.

as for clip style master links, i have unfortunately been subject to one snapping on me. thought i would save a couple bucks by trying something new (silly me). went and bought my regular x-ring (with a rivet master link) and havent had any problems since.

Changed a chain on my old GS450 once.  It was a 530 chain.  Seemed overkill for a 450, but hey...it worked.  Engine was old and tired.  I could have used a moped chain I think.

Replaced with a DID O-Ring with a clip-style link.  Cut off the OEM chain with an angle grinder, put on the clip link, rode 15 miles to the shop, and had them rivet a master link on for piece of mind.  I didn't have the $80 tool but that is before I realized that Harbor Freight had one.  I may do that again to save money on labor.  Sprockets are easy too.  I had to borrow a tool from the loan-a-tool program to get the front sprocket nut torque correct.

I've changed chains 9 times on the 97 and 02 GSs I've had and haven't actually worn out any of them, if they are getting kinky like adidas shows in his pic above I replace them.  The o-rings wear first and lube leaks out and salt water leaks in and they become kinky mostly over the winter and aren't worth bothering with after that.

My 2 oem chains lasted 19000 and 22500 miles and replacement chains have not lasted as long for me, shortest life was 14000+ miles on several of them.  I replace the front sprocket every other chain or so but have never replaced a rear sprocket on the 2 GSs or any other bike I've owned including a 82 CB750 I put 80k miles on. 

I've only used clip type connecting links on all of my replacement chains and never had a problem with them.  Clip type links have improved  greatly since I started riding in the early 80's, the side plate use to have a loose slip fit and they now press on with a heavy press fit.  Properly installed they won't come off.  If you have any doubts about being able to get a clip type installed properly get a rivet type and tool or get someone to do it for you.

My chain replacement record for the 170k+ GS miles I've ridden so far:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSbrakeschains.jpg

Quote from: jestercinti on November 09, 2012, 06:52:17 AM
Changed a chain on my old GS450 once.  It was a 530 chain.  Seemed overkill for a 450, but hey...it worked.  Engine was old and tired.  I could have used a moped chain I think.

Replaced with a DID O-Ring with a clip-style link.  Cut off the OEM chain with an angle grinder, put on the clip link, rode 15 miles to the shop, and had them rivet a master link on for piece of mind.  I didn't have the $80 tool but that is before I realized that Harbor Freight had one.  I may do that again to save money on labor.  Sprockets are easy too.  I had to borrow a tool from the loan-a-tool program to get the front sprocket nut torque correct.

When I changed my chain on my motorcycle the guy at cyclegear sold me
http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/rk_racing_gxw_xw_ring_drive_chains/web1006057
http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/stockton_tool_company_chain_breaker/web1006915
http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/stockton_tool_company_mini_chain_link_press_tool/web1006931

Was really easy to do myself

for those of you who have never changed a chain yourself and plan on doing the rivet link, make sure you have calipers to measure the diameter of the mushroomed rivet in order NOT to make it too tight.  If you compress the rivet too much you'll be buying a new master link.  The mfg of the chain will have a diameter spec for the master link.

I've put some serious stress on my master-linked chain and never had an issue. Often the people who have master-link problems have installed the clip backwards, apparently makes a huge difference in retention. I can't think of a bike i've ever owned that doesnt have a master link. Don't believe all the horror stories, they've got a very good track record and make maintenance far easier.

Quote from: jestercinti on November 09, 2012, 06:52:17 AM
Changed a chain on my old GS450 once.  It was a 530 chain.  Seemed overkill for a 450, but hey...it worked.  Engine was old and tired.  I could have used a moped chain I think.

Replaced with a DID O-Ring with a clip-style link.  Cut off the OEM chain with an angle grinder, put on the clip link, rode 15 miles to the shop, and had them rivet a master link on for piece of mind.  I didn't have the $80 tool but that is before I realized that Harbor Freight had one.  I may do that again to save money on labor.  Sprockets are easy too.  I had to borrow a tool from the loan-a-tool program to get the front sprocket nut torque correct.

sometimes SMALL blocks of wood work. ( wont damage gear )

Best advice I can give anyone for a chain replacement, is if you have a known good front sprocket, put the bike in neutral on the center stand, cut the chain underneath the rear sprocket then use the master link from the new chain and push it through the old chain and the new chain (so the 2 chains are made into 1 long chain, then just pull the old chain from its free end towards the rear tire and it will thread your new chain for you, with a good chain tool you can do a chain in 10 minutes with this method, no need to fight to thread the chain through the frame/engine.

Quote from: crzydood17 on November 11, 2012, 03:21:31 AM
Best advice I can give anyone for a chain replacement, is if you have a known good front sprocket, put the bike in neutral on the center stand, cut the chain underneath the rear sprocket then use the master link from the new chain and push it through the old chain and the new chain (so the 2 chains are made into 1 long chain, then just pull the old chain from its free end towards the rear tire and it will thread your new chain for you, with a good chain tool you can do a chain in 10 minutes with this method, no need to fight to thread the chain through the frame/engine.

That's a good method actually. I like to take off the front sprocket cover and clean the gunk. I've found loose change, screwdriver sockets, and an article from the Saturday Evening Post under there.

Quote from: jestercinti on November 11, 2012, 06:31:09 AM

Quote from: crzydood17 on November 11, 2012, 03:21:31 AM
Best advice I can give anyone for a chain replacement, is if you have a known good front sprocket, put the bike in neutral on the center stand, cut the chain underneath the rear sprocket then use the master link from the new chain and push it through the old chain and the new chain (so the 2 chains are made into 1 long chain, then just pull the old chain from its free end towards the rear tire and it will thread your new chain for you, with a good chain tool you can do a chain in 10 minutes with this method, no need to fight to thread the chain through the frame/engine.

That's a good method actually. I like to take off the front sprocket cover and clean the gunk. I've found loose change, screwdriver sockets, and an article from the Saturday Evening Post under there.

I do to, good excuse to do some preventative maintenance/cleaning.

i quit looking for bad links on a cold chain, cause they all look bad cold. warm up ride to the gas station( one mile), then check the tires, chain, oil before heading out. i have about 12000 miles on a did oring, its slung two masterlink -clips- off from bashing rocks falling down in reverse, but the chain is fine.

are you checking for tight links cold ?