Hi again,  

I checked the valve clearances.  The smallest gauge I had was a .0378 mm. and it wouldn't fit any of the valves. I'm going to try and find a .03 and check again.  (2002 with just a little over 4,000 mi)

Question - looking at these spring compressors, I'm having trouble imagining where the leverage comes from to depress the cup?
DYI Tappet Compressor
Or as Archimedes said, "Give me a place to stand, and I can move the world."


In clymer, the picture was so poor that I couldn't tell anything from it.


OS.

if the .0378mm (and make sure it's a mm, not in!  usually they only list double digits on the mm ones, but I can't imagine that you could get confused between a .96mm (.0378in) and a .0378mm so you're probably good), doesn't fit, try rotating the shim cup.  if it rotates freely, you're probably okay.

chances are, however, it'll be a bit stiff, which means you have no clearance (too small) and it's not running correctly.  the smallest feeler blade Kerry and I have found is .04mm.

It's a little hard to explain how the tappet compressor (oh, is that what it's called?) works, but I'll try.

it has a lip on it that presses down on the edge of the shim bucket, without actually pressing down on the shim itself.  as you rotate the tool around the cam-bar (whatever it's called, the bar the cams are on, camshaft maybe?) the leverage comes from the increasing thickness between the camshaft and the bucket as the took is rotated around.

I believe you always insert the tool from the center.

I hope that made some sense.

One thing to consider, even if you have low mileage, it's possible that the bike didn't get the 600 mile tuneup (I think this is what happened to my bike) and so they might be a ways out of spec from the initial wear on the engine.

Also, I've heard stories of valves getting off in only 4,000 miles, so who knows?

Good luck!

Thanks.  It's .0378mm and not inches :lol:
In a different set, I also had a .04mm gauge like you.  So it sounds like a .030 is not to be had? That's pretty slim isn't it.

OK, I get how the tool works now!   - Thanks!

I think this is the first time I've had shim adjusters that (maybe) needed to be changed.  Screw adjusters? Yes.

I bought the bike used with 500 mi. on it from a Suzuki dealer.  They claimed to have done the 600 mi. I remember that the oil looked new but with only 500 mi, it could be hard to tell.

Thanks

OS

is there a good reason to not take the tensioner out, and just lift up the cams to get to the shims? (besides possibly screwing up the timing?)

dan

that's the only reason that I know of, but I'm definitely no expert.  maybe Srinath or someone with more experience would no.

There is no reason to take the tensioner out for just a valve adjustment. In fact, I would be so bold as to say, that you would potentially be inviting disaster; in the "valve meeting the piston" kind.

The cam chain tensioner is of the automatic kind, such that you shouldn't have to do anything with the tensioner for a long, long time; or miles.

Automatic cam chain tensioners are one of those inventions, like electronic ignition (as opposed to contacts, which would have to be cleaned and adjusted often, like the valves of a Ducati (every 3000miles)) that mechanics around the world have heralded, loved and even worshipped.

Camchains are like final drive chains (drive chains), they stretch over time, but unlike drive chains that are subjected to the business end of putting the horsepower to the wheel to the ground(resistance). All the camchain has to drive is two little ol' camshafts, that weigh, what, 4 pounds? As opposed to the drive chain luggin' 424lbs (wet) excluding rider!

To summarize you shouldn't have to ever touch the Automatic camchain tensioner, unless you have a high mileage unit or remove the cams for whatever reason.

The Motion Pro tappet compressor has a safety element built in due to its curved form.  If you want to make one yourself, just take a cheap or worn out 5/8" or larger open end wrench, and break off one of the tines.  On the surviving side, you want to grind the outside area flat, so it isn't apt to slide off the side of the tappet.  You may also need to grind deeper into the body of the wrench to make the hook long enough to bite.  

Quote from: richard..... the smallest feeler blade Kerry and I have found is .04mm.

I located a feeler gauge that goes down to .030 mm. It ain't cheap though!

http://www.samstagsales.com/elora.htm

OS

Dont buy a $20 feeler guage just to get the .03 size. Just buy a smaller shim. Once you replace it. You should get an acurate reading from a normal Pep boys $2 feeler gauge.

Quote from: JohNLADont buy a $20 feeler guage just to get the .03 size. Just buy a smaller shim. Once you replace it. You should get an acurate reading from a normal Pep boys $2 feeler gauge.

I guess the thought running around that back of my brain was that if the .03 blade fit, then I could put off spending $40 for the compressor, $45 for shims etc.  (and the time to do it.)

Also, running tight clearances means a little more timing duration and maybe .002 HP at the rear wheel?   :mrgreen:

OS