how hard are these to change? I suspect one is leaking. Hoping its the shifter shaft. I don't think its the push rod(its still a bit hot to get a good look at where its leaking) but the counter shaft is a possibility.

Thanks for any help on this.

ps why do thing like this happen after you put new oil in 

Done it before...the hardest thing is to pull the old ones out.  Especially the shifter seal.  Took 2 days on and off with a hook and pick set.  I was probably doing it wrong, but it was no fun.  Some of the other seals, I drilled a small screw in them, and pulled them out.  I think these were around the front sprocket.

Oil...did you put in a very thin weight oil?  Most of the time, that causes leaks.  Sticking with stock oil at 10W40, or even 15W40 diesel oil does not cause leaks.

EDIT:  Once you get the old ones out, you use a PVC pipe and a rubber hammer to carefully tap the new ones into their respective places.

used my usual 10/40 oil.  Looks like the shifter seal of course being the hardest. I looked through haynes manual and could not find anything so I asked here. Doesn't leak while sitting in garage so leaning towards the shifter seal. I will go to the suzuki dealer after work and see if they have any in stock. Thanks for the help.

I did the CS seal a few months ago........I did it the same way as stated above, a small pick and tiny screwdrivers, just try not to gouge the Countershaft.....keep wiggling it and it will eventually come out.  If you just put new oil in, I would just do it the MX way....lean the bike over on its side enough to keep the oil out of that area while you get the seal out.  I have swapped clutches at the racetrack this way without issue and replaced leaky gaskets on the GS this way also

okay i think its safe to say I can rule out the gear shifter seal now as it was replaced surprisingly easy. how hard is it to replace the seal around the shaft connecting to the sprocket does anyone know?

Thanks again everyone

See above.

Someone in here used to swear blind that the only way to repace this seal was to split the cases, I forget who it was.....more GSTwin BS 

There are tools and kits available that will easily remove seals if you want to go down this road but they dont come cheap. You can do it by working the seal out of its housing with picks and blunt screwdrivers but take care not damage the shaft and the housing. The self-tapper trick works well but dont drive the screws in to far or you may damage the flinger behind. Screw 3 or 4 into the seal grip them with pliers and wiggle the seal out. When refitting lube the replacement seal drive it in square and make sure the inner lip doesnt turn back in on itself.

Grit gets in there and wears away the lip causing it to fail, in extreme case you might see a groove worn onto the shaft in which case a replacement seal on its own wont solve the problem. The way round this is to fit a speedi-sleeve

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf_gb/home/products?contentId=895668

When I went to order the parts from suzuki the guy said I had to split  the cases too so it had me a little worried. I am sure he was laughing at me on the inside.

Hopefully get the parts tomorrow as they need to be delivered. The seal looks complicated in the exploded diagrams though 

I was hoping to hear from gsjack as well since he has done more miles than anyone on the gs and probably has replaced one or 2 lol

Quote from: dread_au on December 05, 2012, 12:24:31 PM
When I went to order the parts from suzuki the guy said I had to split  the cases too so it had me a little worried.

Yep.....and charge you 000`s for the priviledge.

You would think they would buy one of these and save their `valued customers` all the time and expense thats involved 

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/draper-04582-srik-expert-oil-seal-removal-and-installation-kit-p43477

Or even try the self-tapper trick

As stated above, no need to split the cases to replace this seal.  Just follow the tips given in the previous posts and TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!!  It will come out, it just takes a bit of diligence and wiggling.......and beers  

Thanks for the pics and the links very helpful.

One question though. Have people been removing just the outer seal? There seems to be 2 seals or is it made of 2 parts? This is going by the bike bandit diagram and what the suzuki dealer showed me.

Thanks again

just the outer seal........the inner seal requires the cases to be split.  Most of the issues are from a leaky outer seal.....

Hey if you wind up changing the gear shift seal let me know how hard it was. Mines been leaking ever since I had to replace my gear shifter rod

Gear shift seal was easy took only a minute for me. Maybe I was lucky.  Took longer to get the sprocket etc off and out of the way.