Quote from: Kerry

Quote from: karneckThe ONLY WAY to clean it is with an air compressor and then using it to blow the air (out-inside) of the air filter?
If that's right, it sucks because I'm gonna have to take my gs to the dealer every 2000 miles to do the job for me

Well, maybe not the ONLY way.  Srinath has experimented with soaking the thing in gasoline....  

Couple things:

1) You don't need to mess with any hoses to get your air filter out:

* Use your ignition key to remove the seat.
* Undo the 10mm bolts holding the side plastics on (1989-2000 models .only).
* Pull the side plastics out of the grommets on the frame and let the front drop down a little (1989-2000 models only).
* Remove the 10mm bolts that attach the rear of the fuel tank to the frame.
* Pull the tank an inch or so toward the rear of the bike so it will clear the frame in front.
* Lift the back of the fuel tank and support it on a short 2x4 laid crosswise on the frame.
* Remove the 4 air filter mounting screws and pull the filter out.[/list:u]2) As far as cleaning the filter.  Either:
* Borrow someone's air compressor, or
* Take the filter to the home of a friend with a compressor or to a gas station with Free Air, or
* Don't worry about cleaning the filter every 2,000 miles unless you're in a very dusty environment.[/list:u]I took my filter to a neighbor's home at 4,000 miles and he used his air compressor to "clean" it.  It never got cleaned again before I replaced it at about 15,000 miles.  I wouldn't feel bad about putting it BACK in if I had to....

so does this mean when i take out the air filter...the tank is still ON the bike?? and no hoses should be taken off?

Yes tank on bike, no hoses touched.
Cool.
Srinath.

WOW>..thanks!!!

how long will it take a newbie to take it off?

15 minutes, tops.
Just unbolt the the two tank bolts apull the tank up enough to fit a small screwdrive4r in ther to remove the filter bolts. Easy, Shmeasy.

Once the seat is off, the air filter is already half-exposed.  By lifting the back of the gas tank (which requires "unhitching" the front of it from the frame by pulling the tank rearward about an inch) you gain the access you need to get the filter out of there.

Check out this related picture, which shows where to spray starter fluid.  (That's the air filter, son!)



EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

hey thank u all.

Quote from: Kerry

Quote from: MarkusN

Quote from: Kerry* Undo the 10mm bolts holding the side plastics on (1989-2000 models .only).

Heh! Sounds funny hearing you 'Mericuns refer to bolts by wrench sizes. That'd be an M6 hex bolt to us, and most every mech would know he has to take the 10 mm wrench to tighten that puppy.

Interesting!

What are other common metric hex bolt sizes?  Say, the ones tightened using a 12mm or 14mm or 17 mm wrench?

Had to learn these by heart as a Draughtsman:

M3   5.5 mm (I think)
M4   7 mm
M5   8 mm
M6   10 mm
M8   13 mm
M10  17 mm
M12  19 mm

Wrench sizes used to be larger, but that standard's valid about 30 years now. Now in bikes and cars in many cases there are deviations from this (large series justify special productions of bolts).

Allen key sizes are always the next lower thrad diameter (e.g. 6 mm for M8, 10 mm for M12)