Alright...lets see. I'm running V&H, K&N lunchbox, 22.5, 65, 147.5, dynojet needle, one washer, and 3 turns on the air screw. Bike runs great while warm.

When its cold (I know the gs is cool blooded, very experienced with this one) and I start it with ~half choke and let it idle at 2k for a few minutes the follow things may happen:

1) in neutral, if I give it a fistful of throttle, the rpm's will get to ~4.5k and bog back down to idle (will kill the engine if I don't let go)
2) if I let the clutch out before 5k, the bike will move a few feet and bog (will kill engine if I don't let go). When this happens, if I apply more choke and launch, it is just fine launching in the lower rpm's.
3) When I'm riding and I come out of a turn before the bike is totally warm, I need to rev the crap out of it to keep the bike from bogging, or drop a gear

I guess the question is...am I:

1) too rich or too lean (given my jetting I would guess rich, but the choke makes it better so...)
2) in need of a valve adjustment (I know I am, all my valves are very tight, expecting gasket kit in the mail, replacing head due to cracked cam journal caps)
3) in need of a carb sync

Thanks
Graham

How cold is cold?
I'd say be gentle. Learn your bike as it is a little fussy in cold weather. Each of my bikes acts different in 30-40 degree weather. Above 50 and all get by without choke. Below 40 and all are finicky - like my cats.

eh, 40-45

I definitely know how to finagle it to get it going, it would just be nice if it didn't bog, thought it might be the jetting.

I'm thinking the biggest issue is my valves...all but one was tighter than spec...I ordered that gasket set on ebay you recommended from poland, and it is taking its sweet time getting here. The new head I will be installing has all the valves in spec. can't wait.

Initial thoughts...too rich.  Also agree with Adidasguy.  My bike is pissy like a woman when cold...but I have learned how to let off the choke the right amount at the right time if I need to start and take off right away in cold weather.

The Dynojet needle is aggressively tapered, unlike the stock GS needle allowing for more richness.

Stock needle, I'd say no washers and 20/65/147.5 with FULL exhaust, no slip-on.  145 mains with slip on.

My 2 cents.

EDIT:  Just saw the valves are out of spec.  Carb tuning will be an issue UNLESS valves are in spec.

so you guys think I should swap my 22.5's with 20's, and maybe go 62.5 no washers instead of 65's?

Of course, do all this after my valves are in spec and I re-evaluate performance

also...how would I know if I had a V&H slip on vs. Full? It came with the bike.

I'm about 90% sure it is the full. I can look at the headers and tell right? Stock have fins on them and I should be able to easily access the oil drain plug right? Cause my exhaust is damn near covering the oil drain plug.

My thought is too rich also. My jet numbers are in my sig. No washers on top and at 2.5 turns out it ran great and would start fine but when applying choke it would die. Took a post here and these fine gentlemen to help me figure out I was rich also. Now at 2-2.25 turns out it still starts/runs fine and I can apply choke if needed.

Do u have stock needles?  Adjust the valves and synch your carbs.  If that doesn't help try and put the stock needles back in like jestercinti suggested.

No stock needles. Someone did quite the hack job on my carbs before the bike found me

Quote from: gsatterw on December 31, 2012, 03:52:41 PM
No stock needles. Someone did quite the hack job on my carbs before the bike found me

I'm sure someone around here can get you a set cheap.  Maybe someone associated with a certain shoe/clothing brand, with a GS500 parts garage on his property.

Quote from: gsatterw on December 31, 2012, 01:00:37 AM
also...how would I know if I had a V&H slip on vs. Full? It came with the bike.

I'm about 90% sure it is the full. I can look at the headers and tell right? Stock have fins on them and I should be able to easily access the oil drain plug right? Cause my exhaust is damn near covering the oil drain plug.

Most slip-ons have a clamp on the pipe at the base of the cannister that attaches to the existing exhaust pipe.  If there is a clamp, then it's a slip-on.  No clamp means that it is likely a full system.

Is there anything wrong in particular with the dynojet needle? I could get 4 jets on eBay for like $10, most likely cheaper than 2 needles

This is how my bike is most of the time, choke it all the way let it run at 4K for about 2-3 mins then kill the choke and be easy on her. Tune for when you want to ride not when you need to ride. If you can get it perfect for the nice cool days that are AWESOME for riding then make it perfect there and deal with a few headaches other times, this is the problem with carbs, they are static.

Quote from: crzydood17 on January 01, 2013, 08:31:09 AM
This is how my bike is most of the time, choke it all the way let it run at 4K for about 2-3 mins then kill the choke and be easy on her. Tune for when you want to ride not when you need to ride. If you can get it perfect for the nice cool days that are AWESOME for riding then make it perfect there and deal with a few headaches other times, this is the problem with carbs, they are static.

yea, this is the only reason i'm considering the cb500r. would love me some fuel injection

Nothing wrong with a DJ needle.

But, most carb settings from the wiki and threads here are based on the stock needle.

DJ needles are aggressive. Instead of including a mid jet, they use an aggressive needle. Come to think of it, most carbs do not have a mid jet, so it makes sense.

2 options...go back to a stock mid (60) and leave the DJ needle in. There should be a clip for adjusting up and down. Or replace with a stock needle and leave at 65.

Regardless, I'd set the pilot for 20. Main I'd leave alone. If too rich, go with 145.

As you said, I have seen so many bikes run differently that were out of spec on the valves. Get that done first and the head swapped then mess with the carbs. No sense in even worrying about this until you know the other critical parts are within spec in my opinion.

The others here have more experience than me, but last year I bought and resold about 10 bikes all but a 2 were not well taken care of and thats what I did got them, brought them into spec and then resold in between riding them. Most bikes I had I did a valve adjust on and in almost every case I realized an immediate change.

 

I have some stock jets if you need/want them. Pay for shipping.

Do valves first.

Quote from: jestercinti on January 02, 2013, 06:10:53 PM
I have some stock jets if you need/want them. Pay for shipping.

Do valves first.

Wow! that would be great! I'll let you know when I get my head swapped out (new head has valves in spec)

Graham

Pm me the details. Probably put them in a small envelope to where you live.

Quote from: gsatterw on December 31, 2012, 12:48:18 AM
eh, 40-45

I definitely know how to finagle it to get it going, it would just be nice if it didn't bog, thought it might be the jetting.

I'm thinking the biggest issue is my valves...all but one was tighter than spec...I ordered that gasket set on ebay you recommended from poland, and it is taking its sweet time getting here. The new head I will be installing has all the valves in spec. can't wait.

Hey I ordered the same one! They told me its having issues with "customs" Been over a month and they still havent even shipped it! Did you get word on yours?