I had a sneaking feeling that your results would turn out like this.

When I did it, I was assuming that the long tube was RES just as you say so I figured that I'd let it drain first so that I wouldn't have to worry so much about switching to the short tube and spilling gas.   I then drained from the short tube and gas began to flow again and continued to for several minutes.  

Did you make sure that your tank was level and was never disturbed during the test?  (Just kidding, trying to be difficult).

So, either the insides of the valve are interchangeable and little attention was paid by those that made it as to how it went together OR there is some other property that's not being addressed that caused the conflicting results.  

At this point, I think it's important that we both test again 3 times and average our results. (Kidding again).

Actually, I don't have a second can but if I can come across one, I'll test again using your method.  Or maybe I'll buy the Triumph Bonneville T100 I've got my eye on?

OT: Also, did you see my post on the DIY Tappet Compressor?  You had mentioned at one point that it would be easy to make one.  Could you elaborate?  While I had the tank off, I checked the valves and they were all tight.  I have a .0378mm gauge that wouldn't fit.  I've looked around locally for a .03 but haven't found one.  I saw a MAC Tool truck at a garage this morning and stopped and asked him.  He looked through his books and didn't find one either.  

BTW, Our posts remind me the story Arlo Guthrie's told about Alice's Restaurant:
".......They was taking plaster tire tracks, foot prints, dog smelling prints, and they took twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy photographs with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one explaining what each one was to be used as evidence against us.  Took pictures of the approach, the getaway, the northwest corner the southwest corner and that's not to mention the aerial photography."

OS

Quote from: oldsportYou had mentioned at one point that it would be easy to make [a DIY Tappet Compressor]. Could you elaborate?

You're probably referring to what I said in the old DIY Tappet Decompressor? Is there anything like that.. thread:

Quote from: KerryNow that I've used my Motion Pro tool a couple times, I could probably grind out the DIY version without too much trouble.

Chalk that statement up to being overzealous, or overly optimistic.  I still haven't tried such a grinding project, so I really couldn't say how easy or hard it would end up being.  

Meanwhile, by now you've seen JLKasper's suggestion for a DIY tappet compressor made from a 5/8" open end wrench.  Did that make sense, and does it sound do-able given the tools available to you?

Quote from: oldsportBTW, Our posts remind me the story Arlo Guthrie's told about Alice's Restaurant

Yeah!  It's been years since I heard that story, but I can still hear him saying "color glllllOSSY pictures...".

Are you saying that I ...
...take too many pictures?  
...pile up too much evidence?  
...push you into doing tests that you don't have time for?  :lol:

Well, I appreciate your game-ness.  On to the end of this fact-finding mission!  It's for the good of all late-model GS owners!  

Quote from: Kerry

Quote from: oldsportYou had mentioned at one point that it would be easy to make [a DIY Tappet Compressor]. Could you elaborate?

Meanwhile, by now you've seen JLKasper's suggestion for a DIY tappet compressor made from a 5/8" open end wrench.  Did that make sense, and does it sound do-able given the tools available to you?

I DID see mr. JLKasper's suggestion and I have plenty of old open-ends waiting to be modified on my grinder.

Unfortunately, I haven't a clue about what he was describing and was a little embarassed to ask. It took me a long time just to realize how the tool you own worked.  I kept trying to imagine turning a 5/8 wrench into that and it wasn't working.  I thought maybe you'd jump in with a 1/2 dozen glossssyyy photos?  See, we know how you work, Kerry.

Could someone post a simple drawing of what that might look like?  

OS

I think the "spine" on the Motion Pro tool may confuse the issue.  Imagine that the entire tool were a single thickness, and it should look more like an open-end wrench with one side broken off.

Around the "perimeter" of most open end wrenches, the edge is more like a donut than like a right-cylinder.  In other words, it's rounded in _2_ directions.  JLKasper says that you should grind off the donut-ness so you will have a "flat" surface to ride on the edge of the shim bucket.  Otherwise it will tend to slip off to the side, and the bucket will pop back up.

The biggest trick seems to be grinding a nice curve for the increasing thickness.

Does this help any?

Quote from: KerryI think the "spine" on the Motion Pro tool may confuse the issue.  Imagine that the entire tool were a single thickness, and it should look more like an open-end wrench with one side broken off.

Ok, I think I can buy that.  But it seems that the diameter of the hook on the MP tool is much larger than the diameter of a wrench end.

QuoteAround the "perimeter" of most open end wrenches, the edge is more like a donut than like a right-cylinder.  In other words, it's rounded in _2_ directions.  JLKasper says that you should grind off the donut-ness so you will have a "flat" surface to ride on the edge of the shim bucket. Otherwise it will tend to slip off to the side, and the bucket will pop back up.

This is clear now. Remove the donut-ness.

QuoteThe biggest trick seems to be grinding a nice curve for the increasing thickness.{/quote]
If you're referring to the grinding to remove the "donutness" then I understand.

QuoteDoes this help any?

So
1. Break off a tang from one end of a 5/8" open end wrench. (Often, these are offset at an angle to the handle. I wonder if it makes a difference which one is removed?)

2. Grind to remove the donut-ness from the outside circumference of the remaining tang.

3. Be careful removing the donut-ness making sure the radius of the of the tang is kept smooth, gradual and increasing from the tip of the tang back to it's base at the handle.

Is that it?

I like donut-ness.  New word for the day.

Also, during lunch, I found a listing where Motion Pro is having a tool sale at the JC near my house on Saturday.  I may stop by for a look.  Unless I'm draining gas.

OS

By George, I think you've got it!  

You will definitely want to retain the larger/longer tang of the wrench, for 2 reasons:

1) You will appreciate the extra angular clearance as you approach the camshaft from above, and

2) The extra length will give you more "oops room" as you experiment with the grind.  Like JLKasper said, you will want to grind the tip of the tang down so that the start of the curved "ramp" formed by the tang is fairly thin.

Hey, if/when you get this idea working ... I WANT PICTURES!

Just one more thing to verify.

Would this tool go 'in' from the center of the head or from the outsides?

Thanks

Whichever way it will fit!  

If I remember correctly, the Motion Pro tool worked best from the center of the head, for both the intake and exhaust valves.  Richard et al, if I'm remembering WRONG, please pipe up.

(NOW you see the real reason why I take so many pictures....   :x Where was I that day, anyway?  Where was the camera?  :x )

OK, verified by the drive until you run out of gas technique...

On my 90' GS500, the long tube with the "R" is the reserve line and the short tube with the "O" is the on.

I drove Kramer style until I ran out...  prayed as I switched over to reserve and she came back alive.

Good thing too,     I woulda had about a 5 mile hike to the nearest gas station!