Hey guys, I just got my gasket set in the mail today and noticed that the crush washers are not copper like the oem ones are. Is this going to be an issue?

Graham 

Quote from: gsatterw on January 05, 2013, 12:08:35 PM
I just got my gasket set in the mail today and noticed that the crush washers are not copper like the oem ones are. Is this going to be an issue?

Only if they leak 

Seen a few kits that have included Dowty seals......do they look like this?



They are just as effective, I say go with them 

no, they just look like standard washers.

They came in the NE brand gasket set...hmmm

Graham 

Didn't ask me?  I have 4 of those sets on the shelf and a couple more we've used parts from.

The crush washers are a soft metal alloy and work the same as soft copper crush washers. There is no requirement that crush washers be copper - only that they crush.

Quote from: adidasguy on January 05, 2013, 12:59:27 PM
Didn't ask me?  I have 4 of those sets on the shelf and a couple more we've used parts from.

The crush washers are a soft metal alloy and work the same as soft copper crush washers. There is no requirement that crush washers be copper - only that they crush.

Sorry adidas, I'm under the impression that your message box is jam packed. I fully expected you to weigh in on the issue. 

And that's good to hear about the washers. I'll get to work on the swap.

Graham 

So... might be a dumb question, but can I take the head off with the engine still in the frame?

Graham 

Yes, you can.  It's tight, but doable.  The cylinders will probably try to come off with the head.  You will have to separate the two unless the engine is out of the frame.

Alright. Got the head and cylinders off.

Just opened up my gasket set, and realized there are several gaskets that I can't make out.

Also, (1) is from my engine, and were between the cylinders and the head on the outer 4 studs. Why doesn't the new set come with them. Any help in identifying 2-9 would help me out greatly.



Graham 

Quote from: gsatterw on January 05, 2013, 04:10:02 PM

Also, (1) is from my engine, and were between the cylinders and the head on the outer 4 studs. Why doesn't the new set come with them. Any help in identifying 2-9 would help me out greatly.



Graham 

Would have been nice if the new set had #1.  Don't know why it wouldn't.  #2 i think are for carb boots. #4,5 may be for valve cover screws. #6 might be valve guide seals.

Thanks much.

So there is 3, 7, 8 and 9 still up for ID.

Anyone know what white exhaust valves means? Are they burned?

Graham

I am so furious right now.

I just realized that the head I bought 2 months ago is an 04+ head. I'm so, so angry right now. I guess I'll put this one on and get another one and do this all over again.

WTF

Graham     

Cheaper to get an 04+ tachometer. That's the only difference.

#3, 8, 9: unknown. I think that #9 goes with the valve stem seals.

#7 is oil drain plug crush washer.

Ok, problem.

I got the head on, was about to start with the timing, and I accidentally rotated the engine with the chain still down in there. When I pulled it up, it is a lot shorter than when I took it off (like I won't be able to get both cam shafts around it.

The engine will rotate a little forward, then it makes a "thump" and it stops.

Did I totally screw this up?

Graham 

So I guess I'm either gonna have to take either side of the lower half off, or the oil pan off. Which one will help me access my jammed up cam chain the best? 

Graham 

Alright, everybody CALM DOWN

I guess when I put the cam chain guide back in, I didn't have the chain out all the way, and it was just catching on it.

And on we go.

Graham 

Your cracking me up man!

Good to see you are progressing! I will check back with progress.

What was the deal, I must have missed the reason you took this project on?

Cracked Journal Caps

Got the head on, did my valve clearances (3 were below .02!!!)

Also, I'm totally pissed. I discovered after I got my head off and the journal caps fell apart (I probably did several thousand miles with them cracked, I don't think it was THAT pressing), that the new head I had was from the newer models, with no spot for the tach. I should have looked closer at the ebay ad. It said 89-02, but that was dead wrong. GRRRR.

I'm gonna have to get an 89-02 head and redo this. Should be way easier next time. I know all the strange maneuvers to get everything in and out.

Getting the pistons into the cylinders SUCKED. I did it in a dimly lit carport, with a flashlight in my mouth.

The timing was sort of a pain, but I got it spot on.

The biggest pain??? The damn paper gaskets that glue themselves to the engine. Who designed that bullshit?

Now onto business. What is the starting procedure here. There was a good deal of oil in the head before I removed it. Do I just hit the starter and cross my fingers?

Graham 

Paper gaskets where? Head and jugs should have metal only. Only side covers have paper gaskets.
As for another head, unless the head you have on now is crap, get a newer tach. (I'll check my inventory). Cheaper than another head and all the work of swapping it again.

How did the pistons come out? Did you accidentally pull off the jugs with the head? Or was your intention to do all kinds of stuff to the engine?

As for starting...
1. Crank a few times by hand with the timing rotor.
2. Check timing one more time
3. Check to be sure piston top dead center is correct as you can get things 180* off
4. Check it all again just to be sure
5. Oil in engine?
6. Plugs out and hit the starter for a second or two. (my personal prefernce)
7. If everything sounds like it should, put plugs in. Connect them. PRIME the carbs.
8. Go for it!
9. WATCH THE OIL LIGHT - it should go out within 5 seconds.

Now, you either have a beer and post happy pictures....then go ride....
    .....or learn new curse words in assorted languages and have some beers. Study it and try again tomorrow.

Alright, well, she runs, and sounds better but...

There is oil everywhere, wow.

Its coming from in between the head and cylinders near the back. Like gushing.

What do I do? Can I just torque the nuts down more?

Graham   

Torque things correctly.

Did  you notice the word UP on the head gasket? It should read UP when placed on and you look down at it. UP doesn't mean which edge is the up edge, it indicates which side of the gasket is UP.

I suppose pictures as you did your work would have helped in case we spotted something not done right.