yea, I took note of the up. I definitely did on the bottom gasket. I don't have a memory of the head gasket, but I assume I would have executed the same line of thought.

Shat. I guess I take it apart tomorrow and check things out? I guess I didn't clean the surfaces too well between the head and cylinders. Guess I'll do that, any recommendations on how to clean them?

Graham 

I've never had to do that. All my engines had metal gaskets which just pop off.
So yours had a paper head gasket with a metal ring around the cylinder holes? I had one of those gaskets in my pile of stuff. We all had a good laugh over that type of gasket because they must be a dollar cheaper and someone tried to save money.

To clean off gasket stuff: a solvent like gasket remover, kerosene, WD40. The carefully scrape with something. A thin putty knife. Sometimes I use just the blade from a box cutter. They are straight and flat and I use the blade at a vary small angle to the head - and go a little at a time.

Did you put back in the 4 o-ring/washers that went on the 4 main bolts in the little depression on the top of the jugs? They seal the oil coming up around the 4 bolts from squirting out and into the space between the head and top of cylinders.

Yes, proper torque is required as adidas said.
been there done that! haha

Also.
if you foul up your gaskets by any chance.
that copper gasket in a spray can at local auto parts stores works Great as well.

I've used it Multiple times and Never had a leak because of the gasket.

(edit)

http://beergarage.com/GSHeadOn.aspx

http://beergarage.com/GSGasket.aspx


if those are at all helpful

Naw the only paper ones that I dealt with were the breather cover one and the cam chain tensioner one. Pain to get off.

I guess its totally possible that I put the gasket on upside down.

Any yea, I reused my old o-ring/washers cause the kit didn't have them

Guess I'll disassemble everything once again and clean the surfaces and check the gasket. What a pain. My body hurts.

Graham 

did you install the timing chain tensioner correctly?

that would be the first thing I would check if you are not 100% sure its leaking at the meeting points between the cylinders and head.

(edit)
or even another possibility as the one head I purchased off ebay didnt have them. (they are needed)

those 2 copper colored bolts above his hand in this photo.

Try re-torquing things.
Tensioner and breather gaskets are not critical - no oil pressure on them so I wouldn't worry about them.

But do CLEAN things very well and see exactly where the oil is coming from. Use baby powder. as mentioned, maybe the cam chain tensioner? But that wouldn't make it gush out all over the place - it would be a drip.

Definitely coming from between the head and cylinders at the back of the engine. Distinctly coming from above the tensioner, in the space between the top cylinder fin and the bottom head fin. And I remembered to swap the rear chain bump from my other head, the new one didn't come with it.

Honestly if I break the entire bike down again, I might as well take the head off again and check the gasket and clean the surfaces. I'd hate to just retorque things only to have to break it down again.

Check torque first. Be sure you're using the correct torque scale: Ft/Lbs or NM or whatever is listed and whatever scale your torque thingie thing has.

Also look to see if oil is leaking from the valve cover - that's a common one because that weird rubber cover gasket can be a pain to get in and as one person learned in the Bike Cave - there is a front and back to it.

Don't feel bad. It is your first head replacement. You're learning - we all have been there. I've made lots of mistakes and learned from them.

The shear volume of oil that came out made it pretty obvious that it is coming from between the head and cylinders, dry above, dry below. The fins funneled the leak towards the front of the engine and dripped, nay cascaded from there. Definitely ft-lbs. if I had to hazard a guess, I'd say it was the gasket going in the wrong way. I'll retorque first cause I won't have to take the carbs and exhaust off, and redo timing, but I'm weary of it just being a torque issue. I'll take it to the max spec, I usually split the difference between the high and low.

Possibly upside down and the 4 that go on the 4 main bolts.
Those 4 go in first into the recess in the top of the cylinders. Then the metal gasket goes on. Any of those out of place could keep the head from seating properly.

HINT to removing carbs:
1. Unbolt the fuel frame petcock because it is in the way of the air box
2. Loosen the carbs from the head
3. Take carbs + airbox out as a single unit
4. The only cable you might need to remove is the choke. Probably have to disconnect some of the hoses but that is easy. I think I was able to leave the throttle, but you might find you need to disconnect it depending on how it was routed through the frame.

The 4 missing o-rings from the kit are
O RING HEAD GASKET   11143-06B00
They were in an NE kit I bought in 2010. The 3 kits I have now don't have them. I sent an email to JT's where I bought them to ask them to look into this. Hopefully they will discover the missing parts and send us some.

Though I do not think that is your problem - re-using them because if the head were smooth, it would seal and at most be a small drip.

Is there a possibility  the head is not flat? If you do take the head off, flip it over and put the face against your old head. If one of the heads is warped, you'd see it as you hold them together and move them around a little.

I saw one dealer on ebay selling all kinds of stuff and listed all as 1989-2002 where I could see things like the handlebar controls were 2001-2002 and not compatible with 89-00. Could that be the dealer you bought your head from? You do have a valid cause for a refund if the ad says 1989-2002 and the head really is 2004+.

I went and ordered 12 of them $4.18 each. I'll have them in a few days.

I've become a pro at stripping the bike of the carbs. I've got a lunchbox so I don't have to deal with the airbox. I'm gonna get started.

Keep going. You'll get it.

It is very rewarding when you complete a project and go on your first ride.

I would be tempted to pull it all apart and start again from scratch 

Check all the mating surfaces are spotless and undamaged, that all the seals and gaskets are correctly orientated and properly in place and that all mating surfaces are perfectly flat. Idealy you need a surface table to check flatness but the nearest thing you will find in your house will be a sheet of glass or a mirror. Place the head and the block on it and gently rock it side to side, any irregularity will be obvious.

Oil under pressure passes up through the block around the studs to lube the head, consequently the seals under the nuts have to be perfect otherwise you will see a lot of leakage in this area. I would also check the thread on each stud and make sure its not damaged or stretched.

Camchain tensioner uses 2 gaskets, one where it fixes to the block and another under the cover the adjustment screw sits in

Check the metal around the bottom of the studs where they fix into the case, make sure it hasnt pulled up.......although I am pretty sure they are countersunk on the GS5 to prevent this happening.

Alright, lemme back up a little. Turns out in my dimly lit outdoor carport, I couldn't see jack. On the intake side, on the outside of the boots, there are 2 10mm bolts. These were not in my engine. I cranked it this morning and found my gush points. It looked like the leak was in between the cylinder and the head because the fin caught the oil. Ha. so I put bolts in them and leak stopped.

But there is another leak. It is the cam chain tensioner gasket that between the engine and the tensioner. There was a paper gasket that I hacked away at last night, but was not able to get it off completely. I just put the new one over it, stupidly.

So I took the carbs and tensioner out, and now I have to get the old damn paper gasket off of there. It is one with the engine however.

Adidas gave me some advice on how to get gasket stuff off, but anyone know, specifically, the best solvent/method to get the paper gasket to come off?

Graham 

Paintstripper will have it off in seconds but............ you know what I am going to say.

Well, didn't have paint stripper, but I had an exacto knife blade. That sucked, but I got it off, leak is done.

Now there is a small drip on the bolt in front of the engine that bolts upside down. Gonna retorque that one. Any idea on what it's called so I can get the torque specs?

I took it for a spin and wow.

Starts with no choke, doesn't bog when I give it gas immediately, low end feels much improved, and doesn't want to stall when I come to a stop. Now if only it was an 89-02 head so I could have my tach... 

Thanks for all the help and support guys, I appreciate it greatly.

Graham 

Jets should arrive this week.  Check the other thread...but you may be good now.

Amazing what out of spec valves do to an engine...

Quote from: jestercinti on January 06, 2013, 11:16:09 AM
Jets should arrive this week.  Check the other thread...but you may be good now.

Amazing what out of spec valves do to an engine...

I'll let ya know when they get here 

Graham 

Thought I'd give a quick update:

Bikes running better than ever, all oil leaks are no more.

Does anyone have an 89-02 head that I could buy?

Graham