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New Bike & New to the Forums! Where to start?

Started by bluerocket_gs500f, January 25, 2013, 08:44:56 PM

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bluerocket_gs500f

Hey guys,

I'm new to the forums, I just got my first bike after completing the Pro-Ride safety training course here in Vancouver. I learned on a GS500 so that's what I ended up getting! Here's the bike!



I don't really know anything about bikes, and I'm trying to make sure I learn as much as I can properly - very Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance (if you've read it).

Anyway, I'm looking for any pointers about where to start and what I should do first now that I have the wheels. I hasn't been checked out by anyone yet, should I take it in to get a once over? That kind of thing. I'm going to scour the forums in the meantime.

Thanks in advance!

mustangGT90210

That's a beautiful looking bike! And welcome  :cheers:

You'll find a ton of information here. Just from reading around I feel like I could tear my bike completely down and back up and know what I'm doing! And I will warn you, just reading around makes you want to spend money  :embarrassed:
'93 GS - Clubmans - '04 tank/seat - Custom "slip" on - Airtech fender - Drag Specialties speedometer - GSXR drag bike grips - GSXR pegs - Lunchbox - Re-jet - Sold!

-94 GSX-R 750 - Sold

-02 SV650 - Crashed, sold for parts

-96 Bandit 600 - Sold

-93 Intruder 800 - bobbed out basket case,new project

bluerocket_gs500f

Quote from: mustangGT90210 on January 25, 2013, 08:50:18 PM
That's a beautiful looking bike! And welcome  :cheers:

You'll find a ton of information here. Just from reading around I feel like I could tear my bike completely down and back up and know what I'm doing! And I will warn you, just reading around makes you want to spend money  :embarrassed:

I suppose that's exactly what I'm hoping for, I don't really have any carnal knowledge of motorcycles / engines / etc - I hate to be the kind of person who just brings their ride to the shop at the slightest sign of trouble.

I have already spent as much on gear as the bike cost me I bet haha! Thanks for the welcome  O0

jacob92icu

Haha very true about wanting to buy everything! Nice bike and I love your gear!!  :thumb:

What year is the bike? If the seller gave you all of the preventative maintenance records and what not you should be good, just make sure they are all up to date. If not its just simple things like new tires, rotating chain, changing oil, spark plugs, brakes, all those types of things that wear down over time.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!  :woohoo:
I am into buying bikes that people have given up on and fixing them up!

RIP Patrick Lajko, I miss you man.

mustangGT90210

Quote from: bluerocket_gs500f on January 25, 2013, 08:53:08 PM
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on January 25, 2013, 08:50:18 PM
That's a beautiful looking bike! And welcome  :cheers:

You'll find a ton of information here. Just from reading around I feel like I could tear my bike completely down and back up and know what I'm doing! And I will warn you, just reading around makes you want to spend money  :embarrassed:

I suppose that's exactly what I'm hoping for, I don't really have any carnal knowledge of motorcycles / engines / etc - I hate to be the kind of person who just brings their ride to the shop at the slightest sign of trouble.

I have already spent as much on gear as the bike cost me I bet haha! Thanks for the welcome  O0

You sound like me when I started. I had no experience with anything bike related, and within a few months now I have done every maintenence task on the thing except for a carb balance (shop) thanks to here!

I'm just now getting my gear, I'm started all squidlike lol $750 for the bike and didn't even have a jacket for the first 5 months
'93 GS - Clubmans - '04 tank/seat - Custom "slip" on - Airtech fender - Drag Specialties speedometer - GSXR drag bike grips - GSXR pegs - Lunchbox - Re-jet - Sold!

-94 GSX-R 750 - Sold

-02 SV650 - Crashed, sold for parts

-96 Bandit 600 - Sold

-93 Intruder 800 - bobbed out basket case,new project

bluerocket_gs500f

Quote from: jacob92icu on January 25, 2013, 08:54:17 PM
Haha very true about wanting to buy everything! Nice bike and I love your gear!!  :thumb:

What year is the bike? If the seller gave you all of the preventative maintenance records and what not you should be good, just make sure they are all up to date. If not its just simple things like new tires, rotating chain, changing oil, spark plugs, brakes, all those types of things that wear down over time.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!  :woohoo:

Thanks Jacob,

Yeah he gave me the records, it's a 2005 but only serviced a few times, I think it had 7k when I got it. The guy it came from was a nice guy, he had a kid which is why he was getting rid of it. He bought it off a girl who basically stored it in her garage, apparently it scared the crap out of her when she bought it new.

It's been fine to ride on for the most part, I've been advised to take it in to the Suzuki dealership for an overhaul once the season gets under way. I've noticed a couple weird things, but it could very well just be my inexperience  :oops:

- Sometimes won't drop into first from neutral easily, or at all, and I need to fiddle with the clutch a bit; I've noticed this mostly if I'm at a red light and go into neutral after coming to a stop.
- Turns over for a while before starting if I leave it for a week or so (I bet I'll get some heads shaking at me for this one  :2guns: haha)
- I've heard the GS can burn oil, I've checked it a few times and it hasn't changed from being mid-way above the minimum-level marker. The suzuki guy said that level was fine, but I have a feeling I should top it up.


mustangGT90210

#6
On the neutral - motorcycle transmissions are made to be shifted with the front sprocket spinning. Next time it doesn't wanna go into first, roll it forward or backward a step or two and it will drop right in

Take's a while to start - It's normal. Being carb'd, it needs to be started frequently (every few days) to retain good start time. Leave it for a while and you'll have to crank it more. Why, I'm not sure, but it's just how it is

Oil burning - air cooled motors burn oil by design. Oil is used to internally cool the engine, so when you run at high revs for a long time like on the expressway, that's when it burns oil. Keep it around town and it doesn't seem to burn any in my experience.

Oil level - keep it topped off for piece of mind, but as long as it's in the cross hatched area you'll be perfectly fine with no risk of damage. Just check the level everytime you get gas, if it burns through the whole dipstick of oil, you've got bigger issues!

And as a side note, HOW CAN YOU NOT RIDE FOR OVER A WEEK AT A TIME?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?  :cookoo:
'93 GS - Clubmans - '04 tank/seat - Custom "slip" on - Airtech fender - Drag Specialties speedometer - GSXR drag bike grips - GSXR pegs - Lunchbox - Re-jet - Sold!

-94 GSX-R 750 - Sold

-02 SV650 - Crashed, sold for parts

-96 Bandit 600 - Sold

-93 Intruder 800 - bobbed out basket case,new project

bluerocket_gs500f

Quote from: mustangGT90210 on January 25, 2013, 09:25:24 PM
On the neutral - motorcycle transmissions are made to be shifted with the front sprocket spinning. Next time it doesn't wanna go into first, roll it forward or backward a step or two and it will drop right in

Take's a while to start - It's normal. Being carb'd, it needs to be started frequently (every few days) to retain good start time. Leave it for a while and you'll have to crank it more. Why, I'm not sure, but it's just how it is

Oil burning - air cooled motors burn oil by design. Oil is used to internally cool the engine, so when you run at high revs for a long time like on the expressway, that's when it burns oil. Keep it around town and it doesn't seem to burn any in my experience.

Oil level - keep it topped off for piece of mind, but as long as it's in the cross hatched area you'll be perfectly fine with no risk of damage. Just check the level everytime you get gas, if it burns through the whole dipstick of oil, you've got bigger issues!

And as a side note, HOW CAN YOU NOT RIDE FOR OVER A WEEK AT A TIME?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?  :cookoo:

Already I'm learning an incredible about from you guys, thank you!

As for not riding for a week at a time, I know what you mean, it really sucks! To be honest you could ride year around here, but I've already had one close call (too fast approaching a yellow in the rain, almost bailed) riding in conditions I wasn't ready for, so I'm taking it easy right now as it can be icy / rainy here. Although, today was beautiful and man did I miss being on the road.

:cheers:

adidasguy

It was nice down south here in Seattle, too.
Rode to Alki Beach to get take-out for lunch.
Take your time. Ride at your comfort level. Don't be a squid. Nothing wrong with that.
We've got lots of beautiful places to ride in our area. It is worth it.

And always be in neutral to start. That way the clutch and drive train si disconnected. If not in neutral, the clutch plates can get sticky and make starts harder (and the bike can lurch forward).

bluerocket_gs500f

Quote from: adidasguy on January 25, 2013, 09:40:24 PM
It was nice down south here in Seattle, too.
Rode to Alki Beach to get take-out for lunch.
Take your time. Ride at your comfort level. Don't be a squid. Nothing wrong with that.
We've got lots of beautiful places to ride in our area. It is worth it.

And always be in neutral to start. That way the clutch and drive train si disconnected. If not in neutral, the clutch plates can get sticky and make starts harder (and the bike can lurch forward).

Great to know, so pretty much whenever I come to a stop, put it in neutral?

Also, one thing I have been wondering about: I really have no idea when and how much to open the choke when starting the bike cold. It's in under-ground parking which doesn't get very cold, but it won't start unless I use the choke. In the training course, they told us to put the choke on full and then start to dial it back when it's idling it at around 4k/RPM, usually 2 minutes or so. I find my bike is usually is ok after about a minute, I can cut the choke to about half for 10-20 seconds, and then off without much trouble. I just don't know how to gauge the amount of choke and timing, any tips?  :icon_neutral:

jacob92icu

Haha yes do not put bike in gear and forget about it and go to start it without pulling clutch!  Where do you live?? And to tell you the truth your going to go down sooner or later, (knock on wood) everyone does, just make sure you are not over riding your abilities so its not a bad crash. What everyone said about neutral is all right. I always put my bike in neutral when at a stop cause then i don't have to hold clutch. To get it out of neutral you can do what mustang said and just roll the bike a little with clutch in and while its rolling put it into neutral or first.
I am into buying bikes that people have given up on and fixing them up!

RIP Patrick Lajko, I miss you man.

jacob92icu

About choke, what your training said is correct. All carbed bikes need choke on initial start up after sitting over night and even sometimes for a few hours if the bike is very cold blooded. Engine needs to be warm to start without choke. You will realize the nicer it gets out and the more you ride the bike, you will not have to have the clutch on for as long.
I am into buying bikes that people have given up on and fixing them up!

RIP Patrick Lajko, I miss you man.

bluerocket_gs500f

Quote from: jacob92icu on January 25, 2013, 09:51:32 PM
Haha yes do not put bike in gear and forget about it and go to start it without pulling clutch!  Where do you live?? And to tell you the truth your going to go down sooner or later, (knock on wood) everyone does, just make sure you are not over riding your abilities so its not a bad crash. What everyone said about neutral is all right. I always put my bike in neutral when at a stop cause then i don't have to hold clutch. To get it out of neutral you can do what mustang said and just roll the bike a little with clutch in and while its rolling put it into neutral or first.

Yeah sorry, what I meant was when I'm on the bike riding and coming to a stop, I should put it into neutral. Whenever I get off the bike, it's always in neutral  :D Got that much down! Like you said, I've been naturally putting it into neutral so I don't have to hold the clutch, but I wasn't sure if I should or not because it wouldn't drop back into first easily. But now I understand why that is the case!

jacob92icu

Your so lucky to have all that gear! Been riding for a few years now and all I have is my helmet, gloves, and a leather jacket... Must have cost you a fortune! Ya, it will be a pain, but if your on a hill just let it roll down a little when you know the light is about to change and change to first when rolling down, visa versa for going down hill.
I am into buying bikes that people have given up on and fixing them up!

RIP Patrick Lajko, I miss you man.

bluerocket_gs500f

 :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: jacob92icu on January 25, 2013, 10:04:32 PM
Your so lucky to have all that gear! Been riding for a few years now and all I have is my helmet, gloves, and a leather jacket... Must have cost you a fortune! Ya, it will be a pain, but if your on a hill just let it roll down a little when you know the light is about to change and change to first when rolling down, visa versa for going down hill.

It wasn't all that bad actually:

Helmet was $150
Jacket was $260 off ebay
Spine guard was $125
Pants $100
Boots $250
Gloves $80

So about 1k and that's in canadian moose money!

jacob92icu

Haha well you seem to be all set! You can pretty much ask anything you want here and some one is going to have an answer. Once again welcome and ride safe!  O0
I am into buying bikes that people have given up on and fixing them up!

RIP Patrick Lajko, I miss you man.

BockinBboy

Park the bike in first. Always. Then put it in neutral to start it. It is just way too easy to knock over a bike in neutral. A little bump or nudge forward can fold up the kickstand and the bike is on its side. Unfortunately bikes just get bumped or messed with all too often, and parking it in first will help prevent a drop from your own simple mistake, or from some careless idiot.

Also, it is good practice to keep the bike in first while at a stop. At least until the next cage has come to a complete stop behind you. One of the most common motorcycle accidents is cagers plowing over riders at a stop because they simply don't see them... And this type of accident has a high rate of death (not trying to be grim here). It is also one of the most supported reasons for lane filtering at stops... Keeping the bike in first allows you to be ready in case you need to get out of the way because you have no defense when the bike isn't in gear.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

adidasguy

#17
Quote from: bluerocket_gs500f on January 25, 2013, 09:44:42 PM
Great to know, so pretty much whenever I come to a stop, put it in neutral?

Also, one thing I have been wondering about: I really have no idea when and how much to open the choke when starting the bike cold. It's in under-ground parking which doesn't get very cold, but it won't start unless I use the choke. In the training course, they told us to put the choke on full and then start to dial it back when it's idling it at around 4k/RPM, usually 2 minutes or so. I find my bike is usually is ok after about a minute, I can cut the choke to about half for 10-20 seconds, and then off without much trouble. I just don't know how to gauge the amount of choke and timing, any tips?  :icon_neutral:
The books and MSF courses say leave in 1st gear when stopped. You may need to get away from something coming from behind or to the side.

If a long stop, I'll go neutral. Some lights I know are long and with car in front and behind stopped, I'm pretty safe.

Choke: others probably said, but choke on and bike revs up. Keep rpm's under 4k. Slowly bring it down taking choke off as engine warms up. For me that can be less than 30 seconds. Or I'll take off in 20 seconds with a little choke on then take it down as I ride the first couple blocks. Of course, the colder it is the longer and more choke you need.

I rarely have ever go for the 2 to 5 minutes of warm up some people talk about. When it was 33* last week, I'd warm up for maybe 45 seconds before taking off with the choke still on a little. Choke was usually off after the first 5 or 6 blocks.

Oh, and others probably reminded you: park the bike in 1st gear. That's your parking brake. prevents bike from rolling off the side stand if on a slope or someone bumps it. Put into neutral to start.

bluerocket_gs500f

Ok, I did not realize that about parking it in first, I have been leaving it in neutral this entire time. Good to know, I'll make a point of that. Also keeping it in first when coming to a stop most of the time, in case you need to move out the of the way makes a lot of sense.

Would it be worth while getting the bike checked over top to bottom by a suzuki shop / mechanic before the riding season starts up again in the next few months? I've heard that some people tend to do this each year, but then again I don't know if they just haven't bothered to learn for themselves what to look for.

adidasguy

#19
If you don't know what to do yet or don't have the tools, find a good shop to do it. Ask around for a good shop.
I don't know who's up in your area.

If you drove down here I'd say either go to Aurora Suzuki in north Seattle or to my Bike Cave in West Seattle. However you're a bit far away to come down for a day to do bike work.

There might me members up in your area. if so, and they can do the work, take a six pack and let them show you what to do. Help out and learn.

Most of what is needed is
1. Oil change
2. Lube and adjust chain
3. Plugs
4. Adjust valves
5. Check tires and replace if necessary
6. Adjust the cables
7. Check all light bulbs.
8. Be sure everything else is clean and all bolts tight and none missing.

Everything is pretty easy with basic tools except a valve adjustment. For that it is good to have the right tool and some spare shims.

The service manual has a section in the front on regular maintenance, as does  the owner's manual.

I can now do everything myself. I won't do tires - I take a spare set of rims and get new tires on them then bring them home and swap 'em so I have no down time on my bikes.

If you came to Seattle (even in a car) I can show you how to do everything. You'd learn by helping do maintenance to one of my GS500's.

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