So I'm thinking of a slip on exhaust and the K&N Lunchbox filter.  I figured if I'm going to rejet I should do everything that'll require a rejet upfront so I don't have to rejet again.  Is it recommended that I upgrade the airfilter with a slip on exhaust? If so I see the K&N sell for $46. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=ru-2970.  Is this everything I need to install it to my 07 F?  Also the stock airfilter has the safety where if your carbs don't seat properly the gas flows back to the airbox.  Does this safety still exist? If not where does the gas go?

I'll also say another option I was thinking about was just putting a heat shield over the already existing muffler.  My main concern with this project is that I laid it down on the right side and the muffler is scratched and has a dent.  If I can just cover the muffler with a heat shield I won't even bother trying to put on an exhaust system etc etc.  For me the easiest is the best. 

You would also need something for the crank case breather. Currently, it is just a tube running to your air box.  You can attach that tube to a breather filter. Keep in mind that there may be some oil coming out of that. Mine sits right on top if the K&N, so what oil drips out just soaks into the air filter.

The "safety" feature you speak of is not affected. The fuel would just drop into the air filter, and if it didn't evaporate, would just drip out.

I recommend doing a full or slip on exhaust with the lbox, sometimes tuning can be tough with such a free flowing filter and the very restrictive oem muffler.

Thanks for the help. I just found a stock 07 from manuel motorcycles in akron oh on ebay. $134 and its free of blemishes. I like the gs as is and the less i have to do to enjoy it the better. Plus no shipping $$s! It looks like they have 2 07's and a 09 that they are just now parting out  question is does anyone know  the torque settings to attach this to the engine block?

Everyone should have a Suzuki, Haynes or Clymer manual. All torque settings and specs there.

I don't now how you can work on a bike without:

1. Basic tools
2. Torque wrench: 2 needed one for foot pounds for heads and a small one for case bolts
3. A MANUAL!
4. A volt meter (aka multi-meter) for doing any electrical work

My preference is Haynes because of color wiring diagrams and it is more of a "take this one item off like this and here's how to put it back".
Clymer is more of "Here's how to disassemble everything. Put back in reverse order".
Suzuki is more tech oriented - one with more experience because it shows the parts but offers little tutorial like the Haynes.

Each has some different tricks. I did read all 3 to remove a magneto.
Suzuki: but the Suzuki tools
Haynes: I forget, but still not easy
Clymer: The one time it was best as it said use a swing arm bolt (or similar threads) and a spacer. Popped that sucker right off in under a minute.

I buy parts from Pinwall in Ohio. Lots of breakers there. Maybe because once totaled, the title is worthless in Ohio. That's why they have frames so cheap: no title.  Other states can salvage things and still have a clean title. I bought titled frames from CA, OR, NEB and FL. WA doesn't inspect with a clean title. Be funny to get a ticket in the mail for a frame with a title but no wheels or engine.

Anyway, in answer to the original question:
                   Exhaust pipe bolt 9-12nm = 0.9-1.2 kg-m = 6.5-8.5 lb-ft
                   Muffler mounting bolt 18-28nm = 1.8-2.8 kg-m = 13-20 lb-ft

Ohio resident here.

In the state of Ohio, it is a PITA to get a title if not in your name.

You must petition the court system. Depending on the county, that is $75-$200. Hurry up and wait, and you'd better have a good story for the judge. Remember steezin_and_wheezin's story?  It's kind of like that.

I hear if the bike is old, it's much easier than if its newer.  Also dirt bikes didn't require titles till recently.