A How To - Refresh Your Rusty & Crusty Header Pipes

Started by Twisted, February 04, 2013, 01:12:47 AM

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slipperymongoose

Some say that he submitted a $20000 expense claim for some gravel

And that if he'd write a letter of condolance he would at least spell your name right.

weedahoe

Damn, Im building a paint booth now but it cant be that big! LOL
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

slipperymongoose

Oh yeah it's full on but back to cheap shiny headers
Some say that he submitted a $20000 expense claim for some gravel

And that if he'd write a letter of condolance he would at least spell your name right.

Twisted

Quote from: weedahoe on February 04, 2013, 03:09:47 PM
Too much hand work. I just put them in my bead blasting cabinet ;)

If you were going to go through all the trouble to do that you would better be better off painting them in some hi temp powder coating or similar

weedahoe

You would have to get them ceramic coated. Regular powder coating will burn off. Likewise any paint would have to rated for high temp. Now, they make two kids of high temp paint. One is for engines and one is for exhaust. There are big differences between the two of when it comes to heat ratings
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

m_melen

Just did part of my headers (short on time) and they look fantastic. Great tip

Watevaman

+1 on adidas' stove polish. Mine has lasted me about 4/5 months and it's just now starting to come off. I figure I'll recoat next time I do an oil change, as I need to take the exhaust off for that.
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

adidasguy

Quote from: Watevaman on February 05, 2013, 04:18:22 PM
+1 on adidas' stove polish. Mine has lasted me about 4/5 months and it's just now starting to come off. I figure I'll recoat next time I do an oil change, as I need to take the exhaust off for that.
You remove the exhaust for an oil change?  :dunno_black:
I do oil changes with the exhaust left on. It isn't in the way. Same for V&H, stock, motad. I can get the filter cap off and the filter out with no problem.

Watevaman

Quote from: adidasguy on February 05, 2013, 05:03:03 PM
Quote from: Watevaman on February 05, 2013, 04:18:22 PM
+1 on adidas' stove polish. Mine has lasted me about 4/5 months and it's just now starting to come off. I figure I'll recoat next time I do an oil change, as I need to take the exhaust off for that.
You remove the exhaust for an oil change?  :dunno_black:
I do oil changes with the exhaust left on. It isn't in the way. Same for V&H, stock, motad. I can get the filter cap off and the filter out with no problem.

Yep. Can't get to my drain plug with my V&H thanks to what I'm assuming is a missing rear bracket. I only have a deep well that doesn't fit in there.
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

adidasguy

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm........................
I use an open end wrench and can get to the drain. Pipe is in the way for a socket. Have you tried a regular wrench? After all, we do refer to it as "wrenching", not "socketing".
Yes - it does drain partly on the pipe but I don't have to take it off.

PatheticPuma

Hey adidas or Watevaman, do either of you have a pic of how the stove polish looks on the pipe? Noticeably cheaper than VHT paint.
If god intended us to drink beer, he would have given us stomachs.

adidasguy


PatheticPuma

If god intended us to drink beer, he would have given us stomachs.

Twisted

Quote from: adidasguy on February 05, 2013, 06:16:49 PM
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm........................
I use an open end wrench and can get to the drain. Pipe is in the way for a socket. Have you tried a regular wrench? After all, we do refer to it as "wrenching", not "socketing".
Yes - it does drain partly on the pipe but I don't have to take it off.
Aluminium foil is your friend.

pl4gu3b0rn

I second adidasguy. My pipes were looking brown and tired.

So I rubbed some stovax onto them and they look awesome. Stovax is another black graphite based fireplace polish. Got mine from amazon for about £5.
"If it ain't broke don't fix it"

Well unless it would make it faster....

Twisted

Updated and now on GS wiki for future reference  :thumb:

Yutchadol


Toner

would it be faster if I used some vinegar or a vinegar/water mix when sanding or using the steel wool to get the rust off, anyone know?

Janx101

If it's not pitted in rust then maybe keep liquid away.... cause more surface rust unless finak treated soon?

Maybe a brass type small suede brush. Like for shoes?, only a bit bigger than toothbrush so good for nooks and crannies. .. and has a handle!

J_Walker

Quote from: Toner on May 31, 2015, 06:48:58 AM
would it be faster if I used some vinegar or a vinegar/water mix when sanding or using the steel wool to get the rust off, anyone know?

the problem is.. the stuff that's on the OEM pipes isn't actually ALL rust. YES the brown parts ARE rusty. flash rust if anything. there's some sort of weird OEM layer on top of the headers its almost paint like, because when you take a wirewheel to them. it comes off like paint, not like rust... dunno maybe some can chime in on wtf it actually is.
-Walker

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