'lo folks, 1st post so please be gentle!

Cutting out headlight when starting - is it poss to easily fit an inline switch (2004 K4 model) to turn off the headlight whilst starting up from cold? methinks this would help a lot with the warmup lumpiness, especially since it's brass monkey weather atm in the UK.

Adidasbloke mentions it in the video links thread but dashed if I can find anything using the search.

ta muchly,
gruntle

Found it for you. I think the English <=> American translation might have gotten in your way.

According to circuit diagrams (and AdidasGUY), it wasn't until 2005 that the headlight interrupt was added to the starting circuit in US models.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=33191.msg616570#msg616570

just pull the plug off the back of light/start bike/plug back, simple really 

I did it to Trey. Simple relay. I'll document it when I get home. I have a pile of relays to do it.

I recall 2006 is when the change happened.

It is rather simple. Get a waterproof 12v SPDT or DPDT relay. Connect coil to starter button so start button trips the relay. Find the connector for the headlight power going to the left hand switch. Route that through a normally closed contact on the relay. When relay is energized, the headlights go off.

I think he is asking for a way to turn it off while warming up, not just when cranking..

With my Yamaha i cut the black negative headlight wire & put a marine waterproof toggle switch in the circuit.

The OP is in the UK and has a UK spec bike. They dont have DRLs and unlike US spec bikes the lights can be switched on and off via the bar control at any time

Unless its an import  .....but then how does it pass the MOT 

Thanks GUYS (sincere apols to Adidasguy)

What I'd really like is a good old fashioned on/off light switch, confess to being perplexed why one isn't there but guess it's just rules by some non biking officialdom somewhere. Yes, think all lights off while warming engine is favourite, then just turn on before riding.

Looked inside the headlight nacelle (no external plug to pull off, just three holes with wiring going in) and found bullet connectors from loom to bulb wiring connector (this doesn't seem to agree with Haynes manual so might not be standard), so could easily fit external handlebar switch inline to low beam (white wire methinks). Just want to make sure that nothing elsewhere will get overloaded or stuffed if I do this (rear light? would prefer to turn all lights off but can't figure how from wiring diagram).

Many thanks for all your replies

Quote from: gruntle on March 26, 2013, 06:47:34 AM
Thanks GUYS (sincere apols to Adidasguy)

What I'd really like is a good old fashioned on/off light switch, confess to being perplexed why one isn't there but guess it's just rules by some non biking officialdom somewhere. Yes, think all lights off while warming engine is favourite, then just turn on before riding.

Looked inside the headlight nacelle (no external plug to pull off, just three holes with wiring going in) and found bullet connectors from loom to bulb wiring connector (this doesn't seem to agree with Haynes manual so might not be standard), so could easily fit external handlebar switch inline to low beam (white wire methinks). Just want to make sure that nothing elsewhere will get overloaded or stuffed if I do this (rear light? would prefer to turn all lights off but can't figure how from wiring diagram).

Many thanks for all your replies

this was a minute ago, but works nicely for the headlight:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=33191.0



here's a follow up with some pictures and such
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=60373.0





i would not suggest interrupting all the lights, i will not interrupt the tail / brake light with any switch or mod myself.  if the headlight mod wiggles loose, i'll know it fairly quickly. if the tail/brake wiggles loose, i could be rear-ended and never know why. something to think about.



if you want to decrease amperage draws, look into LED tail and marker/signal lights. i have a LED tail/brake light that I purchased for my gs 3-4 years ago, on a drz400 that has survived many drownings, flips, and backs into trees. it consumes (iirc) about .2 amp on brake, .1 amp on tail.



there are beginning to be very good solutions for LED headlights also, i'm working on a LED headlight that will pull about 1amp at 27w, and deliver 2200 lumins.... but like i said, working on it. the holy grail of offroading lights is vibration resistance, tough enclosure, longevity, and assloads of light everywhere. LED, is where it's at. the bracketry will be detachable, and have a common plug to allow using it with a battery pack (in a camelbak) or another persons' bike with SAE battery tender connectors. they are also very forgiving of voltages - around 8.5V - 30V dc is considered 'safe' and non-impacting life of the led's.


anyway, hope i've helped. if you choose to interrupt the rear (tail/brake) light, be very very careful and very thorough with your insulation and testing. ok   ? cool

Quote from: gruntle on March 26, 2013, 06:47:34 AM
What I'd really like is a good old fashioned on/off light switch............................so could easily fit external handlebar switch inline to low beam (white wire methinks). Just want to make sure that nothing elsewhere will get overloaded or stuffed if I do this (rear light? would prefer to turn all lights off but can't figure how from wiring diagram).
Many thanks for all your replies

That's the way I'd do it and as a matter of fact I did it that way to an old CM400A once for another reason.  I was loosing the magnets inside the alternator rotating member causing the engine to lock up several times and after I finally located and received a like new one and put it on I found the stator was also damaged and with the headlight on it was barely charging so I put the switch on one beam and rode with the headlight off as much as possible.  When I felt it prudent to have it on due to traffic conditions I could just flick it on with the dimmer switch.

How could that overload, stuff, or damage anything, it's no different than having a burned headlight bulb?  Headlight on is not mandatory in Ohio but could be in other jurisdictions.

I think a straight up switch would be good for you, being that you want to warm it up without the light on. Just be sure to tur it on before you ride. I always make sure my light is working before I pull away for safety reasons. I even drive with my lights on in my cars during the day. Now I won't go as far as putting a flasher on the headight. I see those around SoCal all the time, irritating if you ask me but I am sure they make a difference.

Yours is the first GS5 I have ever heard of in the UK that has a DRL, whatever you have got there is definately not standard. Southern Ireland construction and use regs stipulate bikes must run on dipped beam permanently so possibly it came from there originally

Buying and fitting UK spec handlebar switch that includes a on/off switch (ebay or breaker) and altering the wiring to UK spec seems the easiest way of overcoming the problem to me 

@sledge:
I have absolutely no idea what DRL means, bike docs & online checks showed zero probs & no glitches with either mileage, original reg or specs, seriously, what are you talking about (he said very politely)?

@gsJack & Calpantera
Your answers were absolutely brill...
'twill be Thursday before I can get handlebar switch, Saturday before I can advise consequences of fitting ...
many thanks 

DRL stands for daytime running light. Its a headlight on dipped beam that is lit while the engine is running and the rider does not have the option to turn it off. It seems this is the set up your bike has.

In some countries its a legal requirement that bikes must have DRLs, but not in the UK. UK spec GS5s have a lights on/off switch in the RH handlbar switch that allows the rider to turn the lights off....see the pic. This is the older square style of switch, yours may be the newer rounded type but the switch will still be there.



I am puzzled why your bike has this set up and is missing the switch. I have seen countless GS5s but never one with DRLs  I am guessing that your bike may have originaly been sold new in Southern Ireland or somewhere on mainland Europe where there is a requirement for DRLs and imported into the UK but I cant say for sure . The market code will be on the VIN plate. E11 is UK, Ireland is E24.

Your bike has obviously passed MOTs like this but the requirements state lights must work if fitted, not that they need to be switchable, so that answers that one

To answer your original question.......I would be tempted to source a OEM handlebar switch that includes a lights on/off switch and matches the LH one, ebay and the breakers yards are full of them. Fit it and modify the wiring to UK spec as shown in your Haynes. Neat and simple  ......but I also appreciate what seems the easiest and the most obvious to me may not be to you