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air in brake line after replacing it

Started by tushardr, April 28, 2013, 06:53:22 PM

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tushardr

Hi, I have Been Trying To Bleed my Front Brake After Replacing The Brake Line to A Stainless Steel One. But Even After trying The Process On The Wiki For An Hour, I Cannot GeT Pressure Into The Line. How Long Should I Have To Keep Pumping The brake Lever To Get Any Pressure In The Line?

Thanks
Tushar

Badot

Make sure your bleed valve is closed. Make sure you pull the brake all the way back out if needed, and if it's not working otherwise, make sure your reservoir cap is open (and of course make sure the reservoir has fluid in it). If none of that helps, you probably have a leak somewhere.

tushardr

I Am Also Getting A Constant Stream Of Bubbles In The Reservoir While Pumping The Lever If That Helps To Suggest A Solution.

Thanks
tushar

Suzuki Stevo

Was the lever firm before you added the SS lines?
I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

tushardr

If YOu Mean when The Old Line Was On, Then Yes. I Just Wanted To Get Some Idea Of How Long It Usually Takes People To Bleed Brakes After Replacing The Line.

RossLH

Pump the fluid in through the bleeder. Makes the process so much faster, and pretty much guarantees you wont have any air in the system.

Zwerski

I just dis this a month ago. What a complete pain in the neck. I had to keep tapping on the reservoir, jiggling the handlebars and loosening the upper banjo to get the bubble out. Air rises, so the bubble must have been at the top of the line. Keep working at it. Once it burps the bubble up, it'll go like normal. Rear brake was cake after the front.

gsJack

#7
Fill the line first by taking it loose from the caliper and holding the open end above the master cyl and pumping fluid into the line until it's full.  Then hold your fingers over the end while you put it in place and quickly connect it to the caliper and finish bleeding with bleeder screw.  Saves a lot of time bleeding filling components as you go.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

fetor56

Quote from: RossLH on April 28, 2013, 07:19:41 PM
Pump the fluid in through the bleeder. Makes the process so much faster, and pretty much guarantees you wont have any air in the system.

I have never tried it this way but i'v heard it's pretty effective......what are u using as a pump,some sorta large syringe?

GI_JO_NATHAN

Quote from: fetor56 on April 28, 2013, 08:47:02 PM
Quote from: RossLH on April 28, 2013, 07:19:41 PM
Pump the fluid in through the bleeder. Makes the process so much faster, and pretty much guarantees you wont have any air in the system.

I have never tried it this way but i'v heard it's pretty effective......what are u using as a pump,some sorta large syringe?
Yep.
Jonathan
'04 GS500
Quote from: POLLOCK28 (XDTALK.com)From what I understand from frequenting various forums you are handling this critisim completely wrong. You are supposed to get bent out of shape and start turning towards personal attacks.
Get with the program!

weedahoe

When I painted my calipers, my rear bled and got firm pressure pretty quick.

My front? OMFG? I fought and fought with it and had to tap on the line and banjo fittings to get the air out
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RossLH

Quote from: fetor56 on April 28, 2013, 08:47:02 PMI have never tried it this way but i'v heard it's pretty effective......what are u using as a pump,some sorta large syringe?

Exactly that. I use some shop towels to soak up the old fluid, and start pumping the new stuff in through the bleeder. Soak up the old stuff as it comes up and keep going until the new stuff starts coming up. The whole process only takes a minute and you never have to deal with air in the lines.

Calpantera

Quote from: RossLH on April 28, 2013, 07:19:41 PM
Pump the fluid in through the bleeder. Makes the process so much faster, and pretty much guarantees you wont have any air in the system.

That is brilliant!
Catching the fluid as it comes out of the master could pose a problem but I guess you could have a second syringe for sucking out the old fluid from the master reservoir before it overflows, but pressure flushing the air up instead of down of a great idea! Unless you can invert your bike somehow.  ;)

Cheap tool to build too, two big syringes and a foot or two of clear hose.

Follow the path of least acceptance!

RossLH

Catching the fluid as it comes up is not at all a problem. Operate the syringe with one hand, use some shop towels in your other hand to sop up the old fluid as it comes up. No extra syringe needed. It's a really quick, simple process.

jestercinti

Speed Bleeders may help in this situation.  Otherwise, buy a vacuum pump.  That also works.  Just make sure that you have enough fluid in the reservoir.
Bikeless and Broke at the moment...

oldmech

try this.  remove the fitting from the caliper banjo, hold two fingers over the openings when the brake lever is relaxed so you do not suck any air in. and open them to let fluid flow when the brake lever is actuated. do this for a few cycles of the lever. hook up the banjo to the caliper and in a sense do the same with the bleeder. finger over the open bleeder when unactuated and let the fluid flow when actuated.
now when you get that all done. turn your bars so the resivour is at the highest position, squeeze the brake lever and place a 1/2 inch block between the lever and the handle grip. secure with zip ties. then go to bed,work grocerrie shoping what ever. give it a few hours. this will let the trapped air slowly work its way back up to the resivour of course with the cap cracked open. the reason for the 1/2 inch block is so the piston in the master cylinder does not go to far in and bypass the seal and piss fluid all over the place.
if you want you can do this process starting at the master cylinder and bleeding it down stream at each joint.  ( did mine on the bench)
honestly did it this way last time i overhauled the front brakes on a bike with a total rebuild on the master cylinder,stainless lines and caliper. 10 minutes for the initial bleed and finished up in a few after letting it sit overnite with the block and zip tyes in

fetor56


RossLH

I use a 100mL syringe, it is more than enough to do the job.

pl4gu3b0rn

makes a mess for you to clean up but worked well for me as i didnt have a syringe or any sort of pump.

remove the bleed valve completely, pump the lever till fluid comes out. then put bleed valve back in and bleed as you normally would.

got to be sure to clean all the brake fluid up however, doesnt like paintwork very much
"If it ain't broke don't fix it"

Well unless it would make it faster....

Calpantera

Quote from: jestercinti on April 29, 2013, 04:30:00 PM
Speed Bleeders may help in this situation.  Otherwise, buy a vacuum pump.  That also works.  Just make sure that you have enough fluid in the reservoir.

I had to use a vac pump on the clutch slave of my Miata, Autozone lends them out for free with a deposit.
Of course not returning it means you purchased it for the deposit amount, got myself a $50 Chevy V8 oil pump priming tool that way..  ;)
Follow the path of least acceptance!

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