Hi everyone,

So I was bolting my oil sump back on the other night. I thought I'd do the right thing and use a torque wrench. So I looked it up in the Haynes manual and it states that oil pan bolts are to be torqued to 12-16 Nm.  This seemed like a lot of torque for the 6mm bolts or whatever they are but if the manual says so then I guess it's right.
I torqued up to 13.6 Nm (which is the lowest my wrench goes to) and I damaged every bolt I tightened! Some of them snapped right off, where as some of them just cracked a bit.
What's going on? Is this too much torque? Is my wrench in need of calibration (I've probably used it 5 times in 5 years)
Should I just skip the tongue wrench and do it by hand?

-Tom

Borrow a lighter duty torque wrench & compare torques on a same sized thread/pitch bolt,screwed to a nut(nut loosely held in vice)
The figures u gave for your Haynes manual are correct,i just don't know if their excessive....seems only a little excessive compared to similar sized bolts.
Personally i think your torque wrench is out of calibration cos your breaking things.If u can't borrow a wrench the next best thing would be to torque it yourself,taking into consideration the bolts your dealing with.
Have your torque wrench tested, & let us all know how things went.

I have NEVER used a torque wrench on those bolts and have NEVER broken one nor had an oil leak. I tend to trust my instincts when it comes to the smaller bolts on the bike.

12~16 NM is correct torque spec as per Suzuki shop manual.....


Your torque wrench is AFU!  Don't use!


Cookie

Quote from: Tommet on July 01, 2013, 12:44:23 AM
Hi everyone,

So I was bolting my oil sump back on the other night. I thought I'd do the right thing and use a torque wrench. So I looked it up in the Haynes manual and it states that oil pan bolts are to be torqued to 12-16 Nm.  This seemed like a lot of torque for the 6mm bolts or whatever they are but if the manual says so then I guess it's right.
I torqued up to 13.6 Nm (which is the lowest my wrench goes to) and I damaged every bolt I tightened! Some of them snapped right off, where as some of them just cracked a bit.
What's going on? Is this too much torque? Is my wrench in need of calibration (I've probably used it 5 times in 5 years)
Should I just skip the tongue wrench and do it by hand?

-Tom

What is the range on your torque wrench? You typically find that the actual error is skewed toward the lower end of the range, which is why torque wrenches come in a wide variety of ranges. For the oil pan bolt, you ideally shouldn't use the same one you'd use on the high torque applications such as axle and brake nuts. Also, the clicker torque wrenches tend to have a higher margin of error than a simple beam or more expensive digital torque wrench.

This is like trying to measure accurate voltages (5v or less) going into a microprocessor with a voltmeter that only reads in the 0-100 volt range, rather than using one in the mV range.

This topic has been subject of much debate in here over the years. My own take on it is that someone in Hamamatsu has made a mistake. 12-16 Newts is close to the figure quoted for Grade 10:9 M6 fastenings and those studs are definitely NOT Grade 10:9

I use one of these on the cover nuts.......



Its an M10 nut-runner, the most I can get with it by hand is about 4.5 Newts and I have never had a cover leak or a thread strip or shear. Coincidently 4.5 Newts is the max torque figure quoted for Grade 4:6 fastenings.

Go figure 

Quote from: sledge on July 01, 2013, 12:21:35 PM
Coincidently 4.5 Newts is the max torque figure quoted for Grade 4:6 fastenings.

Go figure 

And to translate it from the brit ... 4.5 newts is 3.5 newts more than the 1 Newt Gingrich we got ...

I'll bet our Newt is heavier though ...
His Full name is Newter ... Newter Gingrich ... so he wont be runing after more youngin's.

Cool.
Buddha.