Over torqued some bolts on my oil filter cover, and will need to replace them. Still looking around locally before buying online (I want to get it up and running this week).

Has any one ever tried using normal m6x1x20 bolts instead of studs+nuts?

Would it be considered bad for the mount to have the bolts removed every oil change (which is why studs are used instead)?

Yes its bad to keep removing bolts in an aluminum body ... and that's why they used studs ...
Cool.
Buddha.

Good point - I didn't think about the different materials of the bolt and engine.

If you're going to use bolts, I'd recommend drilling out the holes and inserting helicoils. That'll at least band-aid the problem.

After some thinking and discussion on a separate forum (bamarides), I think I'll most likely cut the end of a bolt off and use it as a stud.

Thanks for all the advice and comments!

Why not just buy a stud?

I've never pulled one of the studs (item 11 in the diagram below) so I'm trying to remember why the image shows a "break" in the threads.



Is one half of the stud "reverse-threaded", or is there some other explanation for the discontinuous threading?

I believe the part in the engine is coarse thread - could be wrong.
I'd not do helicoil - cos yo ucan always do that after boogering it ... 
Cool.
Buddha.

There's a youtube video I watched last night (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aE_bntq_iE) that linked back to gstwin.com - the tech. demonstrated how to remove the studs. There is a break in the thread pattern, which made it very easy for a pair of vise grips to clamp on in order to remove. I picked up some bolts from Lowe's @ lunch - I'll cut off the head, and use them as studs. I'll be sure to check the thread pattern on the engine side of the old stud before trying to insert the semi-homemade studs.

If the thread pattern is off, I'll just bite the bullet and order some parts. Feels kind of silly to pay 12 bucks for the parts, when I can make some from bolts for less than $1. Yeah, I'm cheap.

If you go with bolts make sure the hole is countersunk. The metal will tend to pull out slightly around its circumference at the thread start point when the bolt is tightened, this might prevent the cover sealing properly.





The studs are not threaded along the entire length because.........they don't need to be 

Looking at the youtube video u really have to tighten those nuts down to ruin the stud......makes me feel confidant about keeping the whole stud idea.

For what it's worth, I replaced with M6x1.00x35's, then after over torquing them too (due to a defective torque wrench... sigh).  I replaced them with M6x1.00x50's.They stick out MUCH further than the stock, but that leaves me plenty of thread up front should I strip the thread later. Can't use the domed nuts (which I think was part of my problem), so I used normal hex nuts then backed them up with nylon lockers. Now I can visually see how far the nut has tightened as well as have a general feel. With this combo, I don't think I'll over tighten again. Then if I do, as long as I don't snap the stud, I can easily remove the damaged studs.