I've put some seat time in a kat FE fitted GS ...

I also have a collar style billet fork clamp set with a custom fabbed "headlight ear" to mount the headlight ... I thought I was putting billet parts and felt "superiour" to the rest of the kat FE denizens ...

OK It blows headlight bulbs.

Has anyone else done one of these and has it had the same effect ?

Those hard mount headlight ears like - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Streetfighter-Headlight-Head-Lamp-Bracket-28mm-36mm-Black-/271281076615?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f299cb987&vxp=mtr

I think will transmit too much engine vibrations and kill your light bulb in a matter of weeks.

Back before I decided to make $40 billet collars to fit "ears" to fit the headlight on I used to spread the GS mount, then stretch the GS rubber over the larger kat forks. I think I made it through a year and sold that bike and never had to change the light bulb.

Yes, sometimes the simplest and cheapest lying around albeit the tacky crappy solution ... works best.

Cool.
Buddha.

had nearly same problem on my gs using the blue  lights. used 20 cent robber grommets

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on September 27, 2013, 07:22:34 AM
had nearly same problem on my gs using the blue  lights. used 20 cent robber grommets

Where you put those grommets.
Also has the chinese light bulb turned crappy on us all of a sudden ...
I remember it used to be japanese 10 years ago ... now all this crap is chinese. You never know its prolly laced with lead.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on September 27, 2013, 07:46:19 AM

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on September 27, 2013, 07:22:34 AM
had nearly same problem on my gs using the blue  lights. used 20 cent robber grommets

Where you put those grommets.
Also has the chinese light bulb turned crappy on us all of a sudden ...
I remember it used to be japanese 10 years ago ... now all this crap is chinese. You never know its prolly laced with lead.

Cool.
Buddha.

had rigged up a mount. a piece of rubber strip for the clamp  around tube, and the grommed where the little bolt went into the light. so there was no rigid connection. always some type of vibration dampening.

There is rubber grommets in the bolt part ... as originally put in the GS.
The part that is not cushioned is the headlight ear to forks.

I'll probably split that open and try it with inner tube ...

Cool.
Buddha.

depending on thickness, may have to fold tube over. ive used quite a bit of it, putting the vapor on the goped.  or my camera

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on September 27, 2013, 09:18:07 AM
depending on thickness, may have to fold tube over. ive used quite a bit of it, putting the vapor on the goped.  or my camera

I suspect the billet may have to be machined a bit ... or maybe I'll groove it for an O ring. Cos I had it machined tight ... it almost will sit there without the bolt in ... I'll get it to the machinist and see what he wants to do.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on September 27, 2013, 09:27:48 AM

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on September 27, 2013, 09:18:07 AM
depending on thickness, may have to fold tube over. ive used quite a bit of it, putting the vapor on the goped.  or my camera

I suspect the billet may have to be machined a bit ... or maybe I'll groove it for an O ring. Cos I had it machined tight ... it almost will sit there without the bolt in ... I'll get it to the machinist and see what he wants to do.

Cool.
Buddha.

aye. a tight fit, pre tightening = vibration transferring. at all times. somethings are made to take it, electrics however are not .

Check your electrical system. Bad regulator, letting too much voltage through, will blow headlights.
Only time I had headlights blow was with a bad regulator. When it reaches 17 volts or more, headlight bulbs commit suicide.

Quote from: adidasguy on September 27, 2013, 10:11:15 AM
Check your electrical system. Bad regulator, letting too much voltage through, will blow headlights.
Only time I had headlights blow was with a bad regulator. When it reaches 17 volts or more, headlight bulbs commit suicide.

I will look ... the bulb blows the low beam and not the high beam ... AKA, what is lit up is blowing ... brilliant adidas.
Cool.
Buddha.

Ill be damned. hadnt considered that. ( had figured it had already been covered)

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on September 27, 2013, 11:42:21 AM
Ill be damned. hadnt considered that. ( had figured it had already been covered)

In your defence (and mine too) I'd also not think its happening ... I'll check it when I can walk ...
The battery and all the other bulbs are fine, fuse hasn't blown (though it will stand 32v ... it blows with current) ... been ridng it daily since april this yr, I cant imagine that as an issue ...

I've just blown the second bulb and it was also a lightly used one I believe. The low beam filament is in a different direction in the bulb assembly. It may just be a wee bit more vibration than the high beam, and that combined with the fact its being heated and cooled every day ...  kills it.

Cool.
Buddha

buddha, i have the exact same headlight ears in chrome on my GS,  this happens only when running?  check your regulator/rectifier and the 3 leads coming from the stator, just for shits and giggles,   ive had a couple pop on me when the diodes took a shaZam! and let AC current bleed into the system.  Odd part was the tail light never took a hit, only the headlight, once i changed out the regulator it stopped killing bulbs.

Quote from: Blueknyt on September 27, 2013, 02:52:09 PM
buddha, i have the exact same headlight ears in chrome on my GS,  this happens only when running?  check your regulator/rectifier and the 3 leads coming from the stator, just for shits and giggles,   ive had a couple pop on me when the diodes took a shaZam! and let AC current bleed into the system.  Odd part was the tail light never took a hit, only the headlight, once i changed out the regulator it stopped killing bulbs.

I didn't think its happening when running - per se ... I said its the low beam bulb that went, which is on when riding, and really the light is off onlt when the bike isn't running ... so I guess it happens when running. Worth trying, I'll make this doubly sure ...

Cool.
Buddha.

just for giggles, id but the low lead on a voltmeter, and see its current.

yeah, figure the 3 legs of the stator are puting out somthing like 20V AC per leg (i think, been many years since i looked), it seems to like to find the part of the system with the heaviest draw when it bleeds through, first indicator of rectifier shitting out is you can watch the headlight pulse bright and dim even at steady idle or higher rpm (not to be confused with mildly dim at idle and touch brighter above 1krpm) but almost a flicker like high beam coming on and off while low beam is on.  i poped 3 bulbs trying to figure it out, started pulling fuses,moving wires, and finnaly disconnected the charging system and the bulbs stoped poping, swapped out a rectifire i had as spare and never poped another.  talked to an old timer about it and thats what was explained.  the rectifire has 3 diodes bridged in a way that the AC current from the stator passes through one or another diode in its cycle, this intern is output as a pulsing DC current to the regulator portion to charge the batt and run accesories. there isnt a wire (other then sparkplug) that you can cross or ground that would pop bulbs, you pop fuses, burn wires but not blow bulbs. HOW EVER!!! if for some reason one of your battery cables is making a really shitty connection, it IS possible BUT unlikely to back feed via the headlight line in an attempt to draw the amps for starting when you hit the button blowing the bulb and or cooking the wires to the bulb, that is in theory possible.

Quote from: Blueknyt on September 28, 2013, 10:24:28 PM
  the rectifire has 3 diodes bridged in a way that the AC current from the stator passes through one or another diode in its cycle,

Its 4 diodes and its called a rectifier bridge. Very familiar with those, have opened and testd and swapped out 100's in a receiver.
That turns AC into a full wave rectified voltage - think of the McDonalds Dual arches places back to back 1000's of times over ... and its 3 phase, so its overlapping too. Then a few caps called smoothing caps, then a 7812 regulator transistor ...

Never mind ... I'll test the bugger when I can walk.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: Blueknyt on September 28, 2013, 10:24:28 PM
  the rectifire has 3 diodes bridged in a way that the AC current from the stator passes through one or another diode in its cycle,

For single phase AC the bridge rectifier has 4 diodes; in our case, the stator produces 3-phase AC, so there are 6 diodes to form the rectifier.

Quote from: radodrill on September 29, 2013, 10:46:18 AM

Quote from: Blueknyt on September 28, 2013, 10:24:28 PM
  the rectifire has 3 diodes bridged in a way that the AC current from the stator passes through one or another diode in its cycle,

For single phase AC the bridge rectifier has 4 diodes; in our case, the stator produces 3-phase AC, so there are 6 diodes to form the rectifier.

Oooooo Correct my friend ... now do you know electronics ?

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on September 29, 2013, 02:24:40 PM

Quote from: radodrill on September 29, 2013, 10:46:18 AM

Quote from: Blueknyt on September 28, 2013, 10:24:28 PM
  the rectifire has 3 diodes bridged in a way that the AC current from the stator passes through one or another diode in its cycle,

For single phase AC the bridge rectifier has 4 diodes; in our case, the stator produces 3-phase AC, so there are 6 diodes to form the rectifier.

Oooooo Correct my friend ... now do you know electronics ?

Cool.
Buddha.

OKOKOK, so you want me to hand in my guru card?