I pulled the head today and split the case. Unfortunately, I screwed up. I marked the camshafts position but forgot to mark the crank position. It got spun a bit while I was getting the case off and realized too late.

Any tips on how to get the position for the crank back to alignment? I'll be hitting the repair manual next...

Thanks,

Andy

Ok, so I seriously lucked out. I took pics of the process and happened to snap a shot of the crank position at the same position I had marked the cams at. Phew.... Panic has settled....

First off, let me ask, You do have a book yes?  If not get one, it will be the best 20$ give or take you spend for your bike.

second, we can tell you damn near anything you need to know, and damn near step by step.

Thirdly, quoting you "I pulled the head today and split the case"  did you mean removed head and jugs (cylinders) from the cases or split the cases so the crank shaft, counter ballence shaft and tranny gears can now be removed?

if you removed cams and moved the crank, its no worry, the book tells you every step including re orienting the crank/CB shaft and cams when time comes

Quote from: NikonAndy on October 03, 2013, 10:43:25 PM
Ok, so I seriously lucked out. I took pics of the process and happened to snap a shot of the crank position at the same position I had marked the cams at. Phew.... Panic has settled....

I take pics all the time,mainly cos i don't have a photographic memory.

Quote from: Blueknyt on October 03, 2013, 10:56:36 PM
First off, let me ask, You do have a book yes?  If not get one, it will be the best 20$ give or take you spend for your bike.

second, we can tell you damn near anything you need to know, and damn near step by step.

Thirdly, quoting you "I pulled the head today and split the case"  did you mean removed head and jugs (cylinders) from the cases or split the cases so the crank shaft, counter ballence shaft and tranny gears can now be removed?

if you removed cams and moved the crank, its no worry, the book tells you every step including re orienting the crank/CB shaft and cams when time comes

Yep, got the Haynes book, hopefully it covers reorientation in reinstallation? If not I got the picture..

I mean I cracked the case open to access the cranks half and pull it out. The head was cake in comparison

Thanks for mentioning that the book covers it, I'll let you guys know if I hit another snag though.

Thanks!

Yes re installing and timing the crank to cams is engine rebuilding 101 and its in the manual, and you also can do it logically and with common sense. The photo is for other things, you line these up via common sense.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on October 04, 2013, 05:43:12 AM
Yes re installing and timing the crank to cams is engine rebuilding 101 and its in the manual, and you also can do it logically and with common sense. The photo is for other things, you line these up via common sense.
Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks, Buddha, I guess I just got a little over dramatic with the crank position. Maybe the 6 hours in the shop making sure I didn't mess anything up got me a little crazy. It's been about 5 years since my last rebuild (351 ford Windsor motor) and everything worked out great with that, so I don't doubt I can get her back to snuff, just trying to be as thorough as possible and get myself as close as I can on reassembly before I fine tune the positioning to exact.

I appreciate the comments and people chiming in, even if it's because I'm being noob-ish

When you're ready, you might bring the motor to West Seattle. We can do the timing and valve shim adjustment on the bench. We have a complete valve shim kit (More shims than Aurora Suzuki probably has - and all the sizes).
Also have the really good carb sync tool and other stuff when it comes tome to get things ready to roll.
Heck, when you're ready, truck it over and we can do all the final adjustments in a weekend then you ride her home.
That includes:
* electrical test
* swap all indicator lights with LEDs
* Timing
* Valve adjustments
* Tire pressure, chain adjustment
* Check brakes and replace as necessary
* Change fork springs with Sonic's (usually there is one spare set on the bench)

Basically what you'd probably pay a dealer $700 or more to do (even with the West Seattle GS500 Club discount we get at Aurora Suzuki.)

IMPORTANT: While the bike is down, take the rims to Aurora and get a new set of stock Battleax tires. Not that expensive and free installation & balancing. Your tires are 5 or more years old. They are hard as a rock and will be pure crap on our wet streets. ask me how I know. In fact, ask ANY member of the West Seattle Club how they know. It doesn't matter how much tread is there. Your life depends on tires and you must have good rubber for out streets. All find the stock tires are fine. No need to spend a bunch for premium ones.

Thanks for offer! I'm excited now. Feeling like I got a community behind my back now 

First things first, I gotta get a motorcycle license. I've rode dirtbikes a bit and even owned one years ago, but I'll have to get properly licensed before I dare hit the streets. It'll probably be a month or so anyway til I even have the motor back together enough to reinstall.

Once I get it all put together I will most certainly use your expertise to get the final timing and valve stuff done. You think I should pull the top end apart and tackle that out in my garage, or wait til I've got help (i.e. your shop)? I'm sure it'll run well enough to ride after the bottom end is rebuilt and topend tweaks could be secondary.

As soon as it's dangerously close to riding again, I'll grab new tires as recommended. Seattle roads are sketchy and I want no risks there for sure. Thanks for the tip.

I'll also get a new chain, I think. The one I've got is gunked up and probably easiest to buy new and not worry about it.

You don't need your bike running to get a license.
TAKE THE MSF TRAINING COURSE!
They provide a 250cc bike. Takes 2 days. They do the test - written and driving.
Then go to DOL with your certificate. You get your picture taken for a new license with the class 3 certification.
http://evergreenmotorcycletraining.org/motorcycle-training/basic-rider-course-brc/

http://www.dol.wa.gov/driverslicense/motoschools.html

It use to be about $125 for a subsidized class (state pays half the cost). There was always a waiting list.
If you pay full price ($225 or $250) you can pretty much take the class whenever you want.

Everyone will tell you to take the class - everyone.

Insurance gives a discount if you take the class (it is like driver's ed classes for a discount)

I actually emailed them earlier today about that class. Looks like the right way to go.

I registered and paid on-line, selecting the dates and location for the class I wanted to take.
Evergreen Safety is the group I took it with.
You'll need gloves, boots, jacket and pants. They don't require leather. Just boots/shoes covering the ankles. Long jeans OK. Reasonable jacket is OK and a helmet. You might as well get your riding boots, helmet, jacket and gloves for the course.

Maybe a weird question, but any recommendation on where to get gear around hear (jacket, boots, etc.) Not looking to break the bank with flashy stuff. After all I've got parts to buy

Lots of people go to Cycle barn. There's on on your northern side of downtown.
Eagle Leather is a good bike store (don't let the scare scare you).
There are a couple others but I can't remember the name.
ask/PM  BrianRC and Gorilla where they got their new gear. I know they recently bought some new stuff that's really nice and for a good price.

You might start a new topic: "Seattle" Where is best place to buy gear"