Not that it's a really big deal or anything, but I just got done making a bone saddle for my Takamine electric acoustic guitar. The main reason was to get a little bit of a higher action so my strings don't smack the higher frets (it's older, and the neck is already fully adjusted). It was a bit of a PITA because I have a piezo pickup, but it was well worth it. The tone of my guitar is just amazing now. Much better than that plastic saddle that was in there. And the action still isn't that high, so it's still a dream to play. All told, it took me about an hour and a half. And I learned how to get really good with a Dremel.

Just thought I'd share. It's the little things that make me happy.

not a musician YET, ( gotta learn to play ( 12 string mainly)  anyhoo DO post pics. you've got my attention

I guess I'll go unstring my guitar again lol. Un momentito, por favor.

Quote from: JAS6377 on October 14, 2013, 10:11:31 PM
I guess I'll go unstring my guitar again lol. Un momentito, por favor.

no need for that, post pics with it on

Too late. I already rolled myself out of bed and unstrung it. Just for you lol.

Both saddles. Top is the bone, bottom is the factory plastic. You can see how the bone saddle is slightly taller for the last 3 strings:


Both again, top view:


The saddle on the piezo:


And, the beauty herself (please don't mind the fingerprints. She's had a long night lol):


It's not perfect, nor is it too pretty, and it doesn't have all of those nifty cutouts that the factory saddle has, but it works. And it works well. And it was hand made by myself, so it has that nice warm fuzzy feeling to it.

Takamine make nice guitars.
Next upgrade would be to replace the plastic nut with a bone or Tusq one.
Or buy one of mine! 

http://www.whittakerdesign.com.au/guitars

If I had the money, I would scoop up one of your guitars in a heartbeat... They're gorgeous.

And I'll definitely consider buying a new nut from you. What would you recommend? I'm not extremely experienced in the world of making guitars.

Quote from: JAS6377 on October 15, 2013, 06:49:51 AM
If I had the money, I would scoop up one of your guitars in a heartbeat... They're gorgeous.

And I'll definitely consider buying a new nut from you. What would you recommend? I'm not extremely experienced in the world of making guitars.

agreed. theyre absolutely stunning. lookin for youtubes of them in action hopefully.

BTW jas, a job well done

Hey, thanks! Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every once in a while lol.

Kind words... thanks lads.

Can you do a 12 string? spose it would be unaffordable, but a goal nonetheless

Jas, your local guitar shop will have bone or 'Tusq' nut blanks (Tusq is a tradename - it's a specially formulated plastic with sonic characteristics similar to bone -good stuff).
The tricky bit is filing the string slots, they need to be VERY accurate in spacing and depth, plus correct widths to fit the string gauges. Special nut file sets are expensive, but you can adapt various needle files, sawblades etc to work. Slots are correct depth when you hold a string down at the second fret, the string must only just clear the first fret, so you file the slots to achieve this. (Test them with strings up to tension). Buy 2 nut blanks at least... Even though I've made many guitars, it's still rare that my first nut will be correct -we're working to pretty fine tolerances here!
Good tip is to put the blank in position after carefully cleaning up the nut mount area, find a peice of plastic about 1.5mm - 2mm thick, tape this tightly on the end of the fretboard at the nut position, you can use this as a gauge so the slots follow the fretboard curvature, -run a scalpel over it to score the nut blank to the curvature.

Removal of the old nut: Wrap masking tape tightly around the neck and headplate right up next to the nut, this is to prevent the finish/wood coming up when you remove the nut. Then with a sharp scalpel, 'score' all around the nut to cut through the finish so it doesn't pull up when you remove the nut. (Most factories just use a little dab of PVA glue to locate the nut, so usually they'll come off easily).

Then you lightly tap the nut to break the glue joint, tap up from the sides first, see if you can ease it out, but take care! I use a sharp centrepunch with a light plastic head hammer.
I'd only recommend you try this if you're reasonably 'handy'.  It' one of those jobs that's easy once you know how, but you can do damage. It's a good idea to pick up an old junk shop guitar to practice on.
(Sorry this is all a bit long-winded!)

Yup, I do 12 stringers, both all solid timber ones and also a composite 'soundbowl' design -similar to an Ovation, one of these is on the website.
-Jools

I don't know if I'm ready to tackle the nut yet. It took me a while to actually make this saddle. I had the blank sitting in my case for 6 months, with the factory saddle shimmed lol. At this point, I'm happy. The action is just high enough that the strings don't buzz off of higher frets, but low enough to be comfortable to play (it really only raised the last 3 strings). I considered getting the neck reset or the frets leveled, but I feel that it's just too expensive for this guitar right now.

If, however, I do decide to make my own nut, I'll definitely be contacting you for some advice. I'm much more handy than I give myself credit for. I just lack a lot of confidence when it comes to things like this.

Quote from: Joolstacho on October 16, 2013, 05:40:50 PM
Jas, your local guitar shop will have bone or 'Tusq' nut blanks (Tusq is a tradename - it's a specially formulated plastic with sonic characteristics similar to bone -good stuff).
The tricky bit is filing the string slots, they need to be VERY accurate in spacing and depth, plus correct widths to fit the string gauges. Special nut file sets are expensive, but you can adapt various needle files, sawblades etc to work. Slots are correct depth when you hold a string down at the second fret, the string must only just clear the first fret, so you file the slots to achieve this. (Test them with strings up to tension). Buy 2 nut blanks at least... Even though I've made many guitars, it's still rare that my first nut will be correct -we're working to pretty fine tolerances here!
Good tip is to put the blank in position after carefully cleaning up the nut mount area, find a peice of plastic about 1.5mm - 2mm thick, tape this tightly on the end of the fretboard at the nut position, you can use this as a gauge so the slots follow the fretboard curvature, -run a scalpel over it to score the nut blank to the curvature.

Removal of the old nut: Wrap masking tape tightly around the neck and headplate right up next to the nut, this is to prevent the finish/wood coming up when you remove the nut. Then with a sharp scalpel, 'score' all around the nut to cut through the finish so it doesn't pull up when you remove the nut. (Most factories just use a little dab of PVA glue to locate the nut, so usually they'll come off easily).

Then you lightly tap the nut to break the glue joint, tap up from the sides first, see if you can ease it out, but take care! I use a sharp centrepunch with a light plastic head hammer.
I'd only recommend you try this if you're reasonably 'handy'.  It' one of those jobs that's easy once you know how, but you can do damage. It's a good idea to pick up an old junk shop guitar to practice on.
(Sorry this is all a bit long-winded!)

Yup, I do 12 stringers, both all solid timber ones and also a composite 'soundbowl' design -similar to an Ovation, one of these is on the website.
-Jools

from what ive read, jeweler files. swiss or otherwise, will work for this, so ive read. ive got like 3 sets, 2 swiss, one Chinese. great for many things in minute detail. I use them for slitting stone grooves in rings or watches.