Using kerosene to clean clutch plates while still in motor?

Started by Austin4Alabama, November 11, 2013, 07:25:27 PM

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Austin4Alabama

Just curious about this idea, there is this stuff called Gunk engine flush that you can use in your car before you change your oil and its basically kerosene. You let the car run for about 5 mins and then change the oil. I have a slipping clutch at high rpms or when I roll into the throttle hard. Im about to change the oil in the bike annnnnd just wondering if I used the Gunk/kerosene in the bike like the car if that might keep me from taking the clutch apart. I have already read everything about a slipping clutch and I have adjusted the clutch screw to no avail. But i have yet to change the oil or clean the clutch plates. What are your thoughts about this? Could it hurt to try?
Thanks

GS500F2004

Not sure how that would help the clutch slipping problem?

Janx101

no clear idea about whether it would 'hurt' the plates .. but you will miss a visual inspection of them by using the gunk stuff only ..

plus if you pull the clutch pack and inspect for wear or damage then you will clean them anyway yeah?

with no actual inspection then how do you know whether they are just gunked up .. or in need of attention? ..

...

duplication of process = extra time  :thumb:

Big Rich

Personally, I've used kerosene to flush an engine. A lot of people will argue it's usefulness (understandably so), but it worked for what I was doing at the time........which was cleaning the gunk out of a 40 year old engine. If your clutch is slipping, I would change the oil and filter first and see if that does the trick (it probably will). If that doesn't work, I would recommend pulling the clutch cover off and just replace the clutch plates.

Basically: it might work but I doubt it.
83 GR650 (riding / rolling project)

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Austin4Alabama

Quote from: Big Rich on November 11, 2013, 07:54:57 PM
Personally, I've used kerosene to flush an engine. A lot of people will argue it's usefulness (understandably so), but it worked for what I was doing at the time........which was cleaning the gunk out of a 40 year old engine. If your clutch is slipping, I would change the oil and filter first and see if that does the trick (it probably will). If that doesn't work, I would recommend pulling the clutch cover off and just replace the clutch plates.

Basically: it might work but I doubt it.

Yeah I have heard pros and cons about it w/ cars or trucks, just wondering if i could take a short cut LOL. Ill change the oil and filter first. Thanks for the input :cheers:

ohgood

Yes, it could hurt to try.

Adding oil thinners can mean a pocket of thinner waits for when you're doing 75 and then hoops in the bath.


Just change the oil two or three times after its fully warm (15 mile trip) and make sure the cable ends are adjusted proper.


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

Blueknyt

there is a number of reasons for your clutch to slip, putting the simple one's aside like cable adjustment, lube, and routing as well as actuator arm behind the front sprocket cover. lets  look at the the harder one's

1, worn out/damaged springs.  alot of folks are un aware that heat, time, and load kills springs.  while the ones in the clutch basket are pretty robust, i have stubled across a couple not up to spec and had to swap them out.

2, clutch plates out of spec.   be it metal or the fiber plates, they both have a service thickness limit.

3, clutch plates contaminated via oil additives. yes some folks add stuff to the oil, though not so much these days, it still happens now and then

4, clutch plates glazed,  often from excessive slipping under load (over feathering of clutch) mostly from LOTS of hard launches, burn outs, wheelies and overloading the vehicle.   

no amount of cleaning, or scuffing can return the fiber plates to service once  glazed and must be replaced.   the metal plates can be scuffed on flat concrete and cleaned but this is a bandaid fix at best. 
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