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Working on my GF's gs twin

Started by racing4cash, November 10, 2013, 05:12:12 PM

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dinkydonuts

Might as well order the jets now because you'll need new ones. Remember you need 2 of each. (pilot/mid-main/main)

If you plan on adding performance mods, go ahead and get the ones you'll need for the config you plan on ending up with.

piresito

Quote from: dinkydonuts on November 13, 2013, 10:32:36 AM
Might as well order the jets now because you'll need new ones. Remember you need 2 of each. (pilot/mid-main/main)

If you plan on adding performance mods, go ahead and get the ones you'll need for the config you plan on ending up with.

What he said. And even if you want to keep it stock, I believe that you will get it running better with a different pilot jet. You may want to send Budda a PM, he used to supply jets "for the people"!!
In my posts:
Volume - US Gallon or Liter, otherwise noted
Length - Metric, otherwise noted

fetor56

It's rare that carbs need replacement metal parts...99% of the time all that's needed is a GOOD clean,a GOOD clean of everything.
Seals need to be replaced though as they can perish & this goes unnoticed.

radodrill

The jets sure look baaaad, but since they're brass you should be able to get them cleaned out.  The thing is that with how bad those are I can only imagine what all the other passageways look like.
2009 GS500F
K&N Drop-in - no restrictor
Vance & Hines can on swedged stock headers
HID projector
Balu-Racing undertail
Flush-mount turn signals
Blue underglow
Twin-tone air horn
22.5/62.5/147.5 Jets 1 washer 3.5 turns

racing4cash

yes i was thinking the same thing. replacing the jets no problem as long as i can get them out. but the passageways will be just as bad. all i have is carb cleaner and compressed air. i was thinking of needing to let them soak in something. still working on it.

dinkydonuts


iclrag

#26
i find when it's just the metal parts that brake clean works wonders, brake clean and a toothbrush. now if you dont want to strip it down that much, just go at the carbs with a really firm toothbrush and some water, maybe some cleaning detergent as well, i usually use this stuff my mom sells called meleleuca as it's all natural (commence sales pitch blah blah blah) but basically all natural cleaner = no residue to mess with the carbs (generally speaking). As for the gas tank i can't say much other than no in-line filter, people tend to benfit from bumping up the pilot jet by 5 though.
Since your in MX you've probably heard this term all the time "Remember, lean is mean" and that runs especially true for street bikes.

Jets arent worth cleaning IMO if you buy them individually from your local MX shop (Mikuni small round i believe) they are about 1.50-3.00 each

DrtRydr23

Not to upset all the hardcore DIYers but you could also find a shop that has an ultrasonic cleaner.  Prices vary but it will probably get all the small passages better.  You are going to have to order all the o rings, probably the float needle and needle seat anyway.  The ultrasonic cleaner may get the jets too, though they look pretty fowl.
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

racing4cash

Update. Well i just dont think i will be able to salvage this tank.The vinegar did do a good job but  It may just be to far gone and it is too difficult to get the solvent out when upside down. I will take it to my friend at the shop and let him check it out. I think that i will be ordering all three jets for each side. i tried to look up budda on here but had no luck. and am wondering if i should just order a jet kit or carb rebuild kit vs ordering the individual parts.

dinkydonuts

Quote from: racing4cash on November 25, 2013, 11:43:48 AM
Update. Well i just dont think i will be able to salvage this tank.The vinegar did do a good job but  It may just be to far gone and it is too difficult to get the solvent out when upside down. I will take it to my friend at the shop and let him check it out. I think that i will be ordering all three jets for each side. i tried to look up budda on here but had no luck. and am wondering if i should just order a jet kit or carb rebuild kit vs ordering the individual parts.

Wouldn't hurt to buy 2 carb rebuild kits, but jets don't come with carb rebuild kits.

I bought this kit from Jets R Us and it was just what the doctor ordered. Note that you won't use all o-rings unless you break down the entire carb.

http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18_5059.html

They also sell jets so save on shipping and order them all at once if you want to go that route.

racing4cash

thanks for all the help everyone. dinky i am going to order from that place tomm. it is the most reasonable prices i have seen. couple of quick questions for u. 1. looking at the back of the carb, the airbox side. in the intake opening there are two small holes close together on the lower side. what are these? on one of my carbs it is pretty clean and i can see up in there and one hole looks to have a flat head jet looking thing in it. the other carb is nasty in there even after the pinesol bath. what do these do and does air have to flow through there? 2. in that rebuild kit it comes with the needle valve and the round insert that sits in the carb that the valve goes into, how do i remove that insert from my carbs? thanks alot. wouldnt have made it this far with out u guys.

dinkydonuts

Quote from: racing4cash on November 25, 2013, 12:46:03 PM
thanks for all the help everyone. dinky i am going to order from that place tomm. it is the most reasonable prices i have seen. couple of quick questions for u. 1. looking at the back of the carb, the airbox side. in the intake opening there are two small holes close together on the lower side. what are these? on one of my carbs it is pretty clean and i can see up in there and one hole looks to have a flat head jet looking thing in it. the other carb is nasty in there even after the pinesol bath. what do these do and does air have to flow through there? 2. in that rebuild kit it comes with the needle valve and the round insert that sits in the carb that the valve goes into, how do i remove that insert from my carbs? thanks alot. wouldnt have made it this far with out u guys.

Are you talking about the idle adjustment screw and the EPA caps?

In this picture (which seems kind of off), 1 is the idle adjustment screw, and 2 is normally unadjustable since it is an EPA requirement in the US that it not be tamperable. Both are ways to fine tune the air/fuel balance of the carburetor. http://static.flickr.com/19/115125073_13f4fb4888_o.jpg

The large round housing that contains the needle valve is a friction fit into the carburetor body. It has a gasket on the outside that does get sticky and gummy so just use some pliers (you're not going to reuse it anyway) and slowly wiggle it out. Some penetrating oil like WD40 might help if it is really stuck.

racing4cash

no that is not what i was talking about i took some pics of the two holes i was talking about. in one pic u can see how nasty the one carb is and in the other it is cleaner but i dont think there is an opening in there?

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