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Cylinder Head Nuts - First time untorqueing them?

Started by dinkydonuts, December 04, 2013, 01:12:14 PM

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dinkydonuts

I've had the exposed ones (on the outside) soaking in Kroil for a week or two. Yesterday I tried to unscrew one with a standard 10in socket wrench and boy was it resisting. Seemed like I was pulling with more force than the Haynes torque spec which is somewhere in the 35-40 Nm range. No idea if they have ever been loosened before since this is a previously owned bike.

I'm hesitant to go any harder out of fear that I'll strip something.

Just polling to see that I'm not encountering something unusual. I went ahead and ordered a manual impact driver (the kind where you hammer the back to nudge off stubburn bolts/nuts) in case I need to give it a sharp rap instead of a long pull.

fetor56

I'v always found a short sharp tap does wonders on stubborn nuts & bolts.....correct fitting tools are essential though.

adidasguy

Quote from: fetor56 on December 04, 2013, 01:48:14 PM
I'v always found a short sharp tap does wonders on stubborn nuts & bolts.....correct fitting tools are essential though.
YES - you can't just pull. Everyone at the West Seattle Bike Cave now knows to tap pesky nuts to break the corrosion. A quick whack on the end of a long wrench with a bowling pin is a favorite. We use an 89 clip-on bar and slip on the end of the socket handle to lengthen it then tap with the pin (wooden mallet works but we use bowling pins).
Even small nuts like the oil cover - a tap breaks the corrosion. (Just pulling hard ruins the heads of so many bolts.)

Watevaman

 I don't remember having too much trouble but +1 to the tap. Not sure if it's liable to break your hand, but what I always do is hold the ratchet with my left hand just to make sure it's seated and then give a nice tap with the bottom of my right fist.
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

sledge

Use a breaker-bar............its what they do (clue is in the name)  :dunno_black:




gsJack

18" 1/2 drive breaker bar and a BFH, the ultimate impact tool.  Used most recently on my rusty suspension links after applying ample Liquid Wrench, no electricity in my garage,
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

pliskin

Why are you looking here?

The Buddha

Quote from: pliskin on December 04, 2013, 08:11:50 PM
Use #2 for WD40. Soak it.....unscrew it.

Are you freaking kidding me ... wd40 is southern lube for well Y'know what.
Even in nascrap city the classier ones have a can of PB Blaster in their car ... Y'Know, to let her know she's special.

Yes he wanted to unbolt something ... Yes, that Kroil is pretty good, there is a couple of ones made by others too - Starett makes some ... all fine, but the bolts are loctited in the factory and they are tight.

Cool.
Buddha.
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RichDesmond

Quote from: dinkydonuts on December 04, 2013, 01:12:14 PM...I went ahead and ordered a manual impact driver (the kind where you hammer the back to nudge off stubburn bolts/nuts) in case I need to give it a sharp rap instead of a long pull.
The manual impact drivers are really useful tools.
You do have to be a little careful, and mindful of what you're hitting, but used with a bit of restraint they prevent a lot of stripped fasteners.
Rich Desmond
www.sonicsprings.com

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