I'm not too sure how to explain this but I'll try. I have a 2007 gs500f. I think it idles pretty well around 1.2k. When I pull the throttle a tiny bit it shoots up to 4k rpms. It's hard to actually keep the engine revving at something like 2 or 3k because the throttle is so sensitive in that range. But once I get about 4k there's more space on the throttle and it's very easy to put out rpms. Is this supposed to happen or do I need to adjust my tps

Throttle position sensor should not need adjusting, according to the Haynes manual. In fact, I would not even try and removing it since the re-calibration method requires that you re-set the resistance range using a multimeter.

Suzukis are known to have touchy throttles, so if you are asking why it isn't as easy to keep the RPMS in the 2-3k range, that could be one explanation.

Then again this could simply be a matter of learning to use the clutch friction zone more. That is how I deal with it since jerky throttle control is dangerous and makes you look like a doofus. 

Could be that the idle adjust screw is set a bit too high.  Typical symptoms would be normal idle speed when you start the bike, but when you blip the throttle it'll jump and not return to idle or be slow to return.

Quote from: radodrill on December 08, 2013, 02:40:50 PM
Could be that the idle adjust screw is set a bit too high.  Typical symptoms would be normal idle speed when you start the bike, but when you blip the throttle it'll jump and not return to idle or be slow to return.

It returns to idle pretty easily, I don't think that's the problem. I feel like I'm not doing a good job of explaining, I might try taking of video when I have a chance.

You might have a kink in the cable or a lose cable routing tube where it feeds into the throttle.

Quote from: bavman on December 08, 2013, 06:41:07 PM

Quote from: radodrill on December 08, 2013, 02:40:50 PM
Could be that the idle adjust screw is set a bit too high.  Typical symptoms would be normal idle speed when you start the bike, but when you blip the throttle it'll jump and not return to idle or be slow to return.

It returns to idle pretty easily, I don't think that's the problem. I feel like I'm not doing a good job of explaining, I might try taking of video when I have a chance.

The choke is off, right? Leaving that on will also hang your idle at around 4k RPM.

I don't think its a hanging throttle hes having problems with, it sounds like micro throttle control and It'll come with practice man and muscle memory

Possible a jet is dirty or one of the passages in the intake is dirty? Thus cutting out one of the jets? Thus making the throttle a little sensitive at the low position?

Okay here is a video along with a better explanation.

BTW this is after letting my bike warm up for a bit, took it around the neighborhood for a couple minutes, chock is completely off, weather around 25*F.

Bike idles a little under 1.5k, if I bring it up to a bit under 2k, it'll sit there for a second then I hear a click somewhere and it drops 200-300 rpms, then comes back and repeats.

If I rev a little past 2k rpms, it'll sit there for a half second then start shooting up to 4k by itself, meanwhile I'm holding the throttle in the exact same position without moving it, I've done this several times and uploaded a video to show:

Did you recently acquire the bike? Has it been doing this since you got it?  What exhaust and air filter are you using?

Could you check what size jets are in the carbs?  It sounds like it's jetted rich and the idle throttle adjust screw is set so loose that the butterflies close all the way (rather than leaving a small gap) so you don't have a smooth transition zone going off idle.  I'd guess that the mid-main (aka starter) jet is too big.

I did recently acquire it, exhaust is stock but looks like a couple holes were driller into it, not sure about air filter, I can check that though.

How do I check what jets I have? I don't know much about carbureted engines.

Quote from: bavman on December 14, 2013, 07:41:20 PM
I did recently acquire it, exhaust is stock but looks like a couple holes were driller into it, not sure about air filter, I can check that though.

How do I check what jets I have? I don't know much about carbureted engines.

On the filter: let us know if it has an airbox or pods/lunchbox filter; if it's an airbox, does it have a K&N drop-in or a stock filter?

Where were the holes drilled into the exhaust?  Pics maybe?

For the carbs:  the jet sizes are stamped into the jets themselves.  You'll probably have to pull the carbs and open the float bowls to see what's in there.
Also check if the plugs for the idle/mixture screws have been removed from the carbs; it could be that the PO screwed that up as well.

Any solutions?
Zak's bike has a similar problem where we can adjust the idle screw and then feel a snap and things go up or down depending on which way we are turning it. We have checked the carbs off the bike and the idle screw - there is no mechanical "snap" when off the bike. We are working on solving this occasional/random run-away high idle or slow return to normal idle.

We did check float levels with a clear tube off the float bowl drain and found one side was low, the other too high. When that is fixed next week we will re-sync the carbs and check again.

One oddity (Zak has pictures) is the right carb has a hole between the air intake chamber at the top of the carb and just under the diaphragm only on the right carb. We looked at 3 other sets of carbs and only one had a pinhole there. The others did not have that hole (Zak - please post pictures) We plugged it and the bike ran better. Any insights in this? (FYI: 89-00 carbs)

Is the clack a metallic sound?
I had exactly the same symptoms and it was the carbs badly out of balance and a possible air leak,
The clack seemed to be the slides in one or both carbs suddenly closing as a specific rpm and throttle position.

My 06 revs the exact same way. Carbs have never been touched. Stock air filter and stock exhaust. I checked the valves myself and then had the dealer install shims to spec a couple thousand miles ago. I don't think it's a problem. I thinks it's a feature  . It's so you have just the right rpm for a smooooth take-off. I recently ran a tank of Techtron fuel system cleaner just for fun and nothing changed. Whatever it is it's not even noticeable while riding. I think you are chasing a ghost. 

Quote from: pliskin on December 30, 2013, 08:34:16 PM
My 06 revs the exact same way. Carbs have never been touched. Stock air filter and stock exhaust. I checked the valves myself and then had the dealer install shims to spec a couple thousand miles ago. I don't think it's a problem. I thinks it's a feature  . It's so you have just the right rpm for a smooooth take-off. I recently ran a tank of Techtron fuel system cleaner just for fun and nothing changed. Whatever it is it's not even noticeable while riding. I think you are chasing a ghost.

That's interesting I wouldn't have thought they would make it like that. It's definitely not a problem when riding because once the transmission is engaged the bike can't rev by itself like when it's idle. I just thought something might be wrong with it.

Quote from: nathaniel2910 on December 30, 2013, 01:18:52 PM
Is the clack a metallic sound?
I had exactly the same symptoms and it was the carbs badly out of balance and a possible air leak,
The clack seemed to be the slides in one or both carbs suddenly closing as a specific rpm and throttle position.

I'm not too sure but that's something I'd like to check out. How did you check them? I see theres a bunch of carb checkers on ebay ranging for 50-100.

Quote from: adidasguy on December 30, 2013, 02:50:08 AM
Any solutions?
Zak's bike has a similar problem where we can adjust the idle screw and then feel a snap and things go up or down depending on which way we are turning it. We have checked the carbs off the bike and the idle screw - there is no mechanical "snap" when off the bike. We are working on solving this occasional/random run-away high idle or slow return to normal idle.

We did check float levels with a clear tube off the float bowl drain and found one side was low, the other too high. When that is fixed next week we will re-sync the carbs and check again.

One oddity (Zak has pictures) is the right carb has a hole between the air intake chamber at the top of the carb and just under the diaphragm only on the right carb. We looked at 3 other sets of carbs and only one had a pinhole there. The others did not have that hole (Zak - please post pictures) We plugged it and the bike ran better. Any insights in this? (FYI: 89-00 carbs)

I did have a chance to take the bike out the other day since it was nice out and I noticed after my 30min ride the idle had gone up to around 1.8K so I'm guessing my engine wasn't all the way warmed up when I took that vid, so I adjusted the idle screw and got it back in spec, and now the revving has decreased closer to 3k rather than 4k, but still happens. I dumped some seafoam in there just in case the carbs were dirty. If you had that picture of the carb that would be great so I can check. The weather is pretty crappy around this time of year so I haven't had much time to look and mess around with things but I try every nice day we get

Just a thought; it could be that the mixture screws are set too low.  I recall when I was adjusting/rejetting my carbs I once turned the mixture down too much and the revs shot up to 4K (no choke) and the dropped back down when I richened the idle mixture.