Yeh, Mosins, this Jason Taaffee guy is a bit of an expert on the rifle:

https://www.reviewjournal.com/news/police-arrest-2-suspects-esmeralda-county-homicide

Can't say I blame the guy....and really what an odd choice as a "hunting rifle".

I see a few companies make various kinds of mounts, and just wasn't sure what the advantage of one over the other was. I may be making my own, just figured I might see if anyone has one that they can lend an opinion on.

Quote from: Soloratov on December 31, 2013, 01:31:55 PM
On a more positive note, anyone here have a Mosin? Looking to see how the scope mounts for them work. Key is, the one I have does not have the bent bolt lever, so that's why I am curious.

Rear sight is probably on a dovetail rail. That + long eye relief scope. Be sure to pin one of your scope rings in one of the rear sight's pin hole.

That's what I figured. A lot of pictures showed the scope a fair way up there so I figured I would either have to cantilever it back or bridge it over the bolt somehow.

Just put new springs in my slide and trigger to lighten everything up. New sights are next.

I still laugh when some ppl call them "frozen maggots" ( mosin nagants)

Lol. I was talking with my buddy about it, and just the pure overwhelming weight of the thing is enough to respect soldiers from that era. It's so loud, even compared to my .308. War truly is hell.

Went to the range yesterday. Everyone must've had their new xmas toy and the day off. We had to wait nearly half an hour before we got a spot on the range line.

Shot my B6P 9mm, coworkers 1911 .45, friends sig .45 and his .270 rifle. First time I had the chance to fire off a couple rifle rounds. He hadn't shot it in nearly 2 years, and the thing was spot on. Rifle was a blast, the sig's trigger is like a mouse click so that was a bit weird, and that 1911.. such a smooth shooting pistol!!

Seems like my 9mm shoots a bit right. Always thought it was my left handyness, but it was pulling to same distance right when it was in a right handers grip. Sights are fixed, so not much chance of adjusting.. guess I can't complain when brand new it cost $160 with 2 mags.

No photos, but I did take some vids christmas eve when my brother and I were out plinking some off. I'll edit them down and upload sooner or later.

you can use a wooden dowel and hammer to push the rear sight slightly

Just read more on the sights last night. Turns out I can replace and somewhat adjust my sights. The front sight is held in with a roll pin that can be punched out. The rear is dovetailed and is pressed out from left to right. Next time I get a chance I'm going to push the rear sight out to the right a bit to see if it helps

After remembering that this gun is nearly an exact copy of the Czech's CZ75, I started looking for cz accessories. Found a nice holster, nice sights, and some extended clips, and other bits. Told myself no more spending until I am confident and comfortable with the gun. Feeling pretty good with it so I may pick up a holster soon

Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on January 03, 2014, 07:13:36 AM
Found a nice holster, nice sights, and some extended clips, and other bits.

Clips  

Ok, terminology nazi...

Steez ... To check your sight alignment before you tap anything ... See if the range or anyone there has a pistol vice you can borrow/use for a short while ... Clamp it in and aim it up and let off a few shots ... That will give you the true Point of Aim ...

Another thing to check/test .... Very methodically and calmly fire off 20-30? (Or more if you shooting a match)  Shots at a clean target ... Patch them out as you go of course... When it's all done collect your target and sit down at a table .... With a pencil/pen and ruler draw two parallel lines vertically at the edges off the bullseye .. Right across target .... Same with the horizontal ...

Now ... While you will see the general spread of shots and probably in your case a bit to the right .... Count up the shots that are within the bull-lines and very close to the bull lines ...

The high/low ones can be caused by :- head movement/wrist adjustment, jerky trigger pull, normal fluctuations in wrist/hand position and grip strength plus a few other things that 'just happen' ... Including load variance (though load variance can account for any shot 'wavering')

The left/right ones are 'more usually' .... Your hand and finger movement on the trigger and grip as you pull the trigger/tense your hand in expectation .... It's a "everyone does it" thing and something that the top level shooters train themselves out of ...

Basically the position of your fingertip on the trigger and the way you apply pressure as you squeeze ... Can slightly 'push' the aiming point left or right .... One situation is that too deep in/across the trigger will result in the pistol being pulled toward the side that the holding hand is on .. And conversely too shallow/not across (the centreline) of trigger will result in the pistol being pushed away from the side that the holding hand is on.

You mentioned ' bit to the right' .. Which COULD simply be the way your hand and finger position is as mentioned above... Of course it Could easy be the sights are a little off also ..... Or some other slight flinch/habit that nearly all shooters experience without realising .... Back in the day it took me about 6 weeks to practice and note and modify my technique with a range of handguns ... 22 autos/single shots, 357 revolvers and a glock40 10mm ... Result .. An 'average' increase of 20ish points per match .. Which further improved over time till I gave the whole thing away..

Probably the best way to check your trigger and grip habits is to have a go of a good air pistol with a very light/match trigger .... Grab yourself a can of pellets and gently squeeze off 100 shots (roughly that amount) at a clean target... Patch out like above and draw the same lines ... The lack of pretty much any recoil on the air pistol will give you a much clearer indication of what YOU are doing rather than what the pistol is doing ... If there is a high level instructor/trainer/a grade? Shooter around ... Ask them to watch what you are doing too...

This isn't saying you don't know how to shoot/fire a weapon.... It is just me trying to pass on some valuable info that helped me understand the mechanics of it all ... 20 years ago .. 

All this trigger and hand/arm stuff counts for longarms as well .. But not quite so much because of the length of weapons involved .... The short pistol lengths mean that variations in style/action are 'usually' magnified more...... I spose that rifles are longer range and any variance will cause more final point movement too , because the increased distance gives TIME for the line of travel/angle to magnify... 

Anyway .... Hope this might help you and anyone else that reads it ... I'm not an expert trainer or even close... The info is still 'good' though 

Oh and mister... LOL .... And yes technically correct ... But... You gonna correct a 'whole country' for lazy terminology!??   

Thanks for all the info janx. Im just getting into firearms and learning to shoot a pistol correctly for my ccw is something im practicing. I have three firearms as of today: xds 9mm, raven arms mp-25 and a CIL mod. 171 in 22lr.


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I have issues to deal with. I haven't shot for a month due to travel a d HUHSKY.
Last time I shot 9mm at 25 yards. Funny to see a diagonal pattern from lower left to upper right. Obviously I have problems.
With my Henry 45 colt, I can keep on the paper all the time at 100 yards with iron sights. Very tight groups when indoors at 25 yards. I love Henry's.

It takes practice and a big budget for ammo.

A friend shoots one shot then adjusts sights. He does that for an hour. You need to shoot 3 to 5 rounds THEN adjust. You can always have one flyer. You can't adjust things if you have one flyer. 5 shots and one flyer you can ignore in the group.

Never hurts to ask the range supervisor or good shooters what you canto to be more accurate.

Ahh caught me Mister! Can't tell I'm a gun noob eh? haha

Loads of great info in there Janx, many thanks! I'll have to reread that each time I get to the range. I definitely still have the first shot jitters, but after ~300 rounds it isn't as predominant. My papa always taught us to squeeze the trigger vs pull. Took a few rounds, but I'm starting to feel the squeeze instead of the jittery pull. Will definitely get a few vice shots before adjusting anything. Really like the air pistol idea to highlight shooter error

Also, if you are having erratic shot placement (usually vertically), try not to "get ready" for the recoil. Just squeeze and let the pistol roll up a bit. If you are anticipating that kick, your hands will tend to push forward and down just a bit as you squeeze through the trigger. Was never an issue with me until I inherited a 1911. With such a heavy gun and a much bigger round than I was used to I expected more...which was stupid from all my years shooting rifles...but it happens. You get used to just kind of letting the barrel follow through its natural movement without bracing too much.

Which reminds me...I need to get out this weekend!!! I just bought some lead!

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/ayoob85.html

Learn the crush grip, get training from a qualified instructor not just some good shooter at the range great shooters aren't always great teachers.

Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on January 06, 2014, 02:19:31 PM
Ahh caught me Mister! Can't tell I'm a gun noob eh? haha

Loads of great info in there Janx, many thanks! I'll have to reread that each time I get to the range. I definitely still have the first shot jitters, but after ~300 rounds it isn't as predominant. My papa always taught us to squeeze the trigger vs pull. Took a few rounds, but I'm starting to feel the squeeze instead of the jittery pull. Will definitely get a few vice shots before adjusting anything. Really like the air pistol idea to highlight shooter error

Mister err betty is our resident grammar Nazi. Seig heil Eh?,

Problem with the crush grip, as the article mentions, is as the gun shakes the point of aim changes. It still might be Roughly centered, but not so good for accuracy competition. So... fine for self defense, not so fine for accuracy.

Quote from: mister on January 09, 2014, 01:40:01 PM
Problem with the crush grip, as the article mentions, is as the gun shakes the point of aim changes. It still might be Roughly centered, but not so good for accuracy competition. So... fine for self defense, not so fine for accuracy.

Point of aim is always shifting sight verification is constant throughout the shot cycle, and the crush grip does not make the gun shake when done properly it is the most stable platform there is. Robby Leatham uses the crush grip, Phil Strader who I know personally uses the crush grip, teaches the grip and  the instructor who taught him is a very good friend of mine, Jerry Miculek uses the crush when he shoots Semi auto and a modified version of the crush for revolver, Brian Enos uses the crush grip. IDPA and USPA master Eric Fuson an acquaintance of mine and another of my teachers uses and teaches the crush grip as well. I'm no where near as good as any of those guys but with a proper crush grip I put 17 of 17 rounds into a 10" steel plate from a bone stock service model XD9 all day long.

This guy here puts round after round through the same hole he can empty a single stack .45 at 10 yards into a hole the size of a dime. And he hits 4" plates at 50 yards all day long, guess what he uses a crush grip as well.