sorry to draw up an old topic.

i would like to replace my fork seals for this upcoming season (light seepage from right fork)

addidasguy, i was hoping you could provide the part numbers for the bushings you are talking about here, i cant seem to find them labeled as bushings on bikebandit.

Quote from: adidasguy on August 13, 2013, 04:11:56 PM
based on what we found, the upper bushings were work so much that you could feel the tube wobble around at the top of the lower tube where the seal is located. That wobble would cause leaks around the seal. There is a top bushing just under the seal that was work. New ones are on order to make that set of forks un-cursed and usable again.
The lower bushing if worn would cause wobble but I think the one under the seal is more critical for that.
You can get leaking if the is inward or outward force on the forks. The fork brace is the last thing to tighten down. Do that before the wheel goes on and the wheel can cause the bottom of the forks to get forced in or out, straining the top of the fork.
Next to last to tighten is that bearing sleeve on the bottom of the right fork. Pry open to let it slide a little.

First one fork goes in and snug the bolts.
The other fork should slide straight in. If not, then you either have a bent fork tube or the lower triple is bent from a crash. Twist back & forth and they should slide right in in perfect alignment.
If the first fork doesn't go straight in, you have a bent lower triple or the triples are not aligned (as when first assembling a bike) so loosen the top triple so it can rotate a little to let the first fork go in.

The order we use is:
1. Forks in triples and tighten down
2. Fork brace on but not screwed down (has to be there before wheel goes on)
3. Wheel on and tighten axle. Spacer on right fork slides back & forth so the for is straight and where it wants to be.
4. Now tighten the bolt for the spacer on the right fork
5. Now tighten down the fork brace.

Everything should be aligned because the forks were free-floating (so to speak) to be where they wanted to be before things were tightened down.

while your at it maybe the numbers for the seals and dust caps as well so i can get all oem.

bump for an answer?

The forks are called "Front Damper".
On 89-00 models, the bushings are...

#3    METAL,SLIDE  51167-01D00    $9.88   (top one)

#9    PISTON   51121-01D00     $14.79    (bottom one)

I had a fork that was bent about as much as these forks in the pictures are. I took them to a local motorcycle shop (disassembled, cause I'm not paying someone to break down a fork) and they were able to straighten it (need a hydraulic press). Cost me $20. As long as there is no/very very little fold/seam, you should be good.

Graham 

addy my friend. your level is warped. I can see it. top and bottom aka both sides. quite possible fork legs are straight

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on January 23, 2014, 08:02:07 PM
addy my friend. your level is warped. I can see it. top and bottom aka both sides. quite possible fork legs are straight

Level is perfect. New aluminum. I also tested using both sides of level. Same result.
Pictures sometimes distort.
Also rotating fork on same surface shows high in middle then high on ends 180* around. So it is the fork. Roll an object on a surface and you can see if it is the surface or the object.

thanks addy!