I hope you find helpful and that images are explained by themselves.
you can find the original post here:www.clubgs500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=33694&p=479943#p479943c

Hacen falta:
Placa de pruebas con las pistas en linea recta ( habrá que prepararla un poco )
35 diodos 1N4148 ,
1 Display de siete segmentos de anodo común ( a partir de ahora 7s ) 
7 resistencias de 420 Ohms mas o menos según tu 7s y el brillo que quieras. 13.3V / intensidad máxima continua del display por segmento que suele ser 20 mA
(13.3*0.02A = 0.26W brillando a tope, que debe ser molesto, seguramente con ajuste serán 10 mA)
1 interruptor normalmente cerrado, que al poner el candado en su soporte se abra. Así marcara 8 en el 7s cuando este en el disco intentando simular un candado cerrado que ya sabemos todos lo que jode levantar la moto.
Fusible 0.5A
Cable de 8 hilos
Funda termoretráctil ancha
El esquema que seguiremos y algunas fotos de los pasos. Me he equivocado en el mail es merenat@gmail.
Se puede reducir algo más, pero entonces algunos segmentos tendrian que pasar por dos diodos y se  notaria en el brillo.

No hagas caso de los cables que esta foto es del primero que hice, no concuerdan los colores, pero se puede ver como queda dentro de la funda.

Prepara las placas así:
Las rayas indican el sentido de las pistas y el corte es para ayudar a que las controléis al darle vueltas.

Paso siguiente marca donde irá cada diodo para no liarte luego al soldar. Todos con el cátodo (raya negra) hacia abajo menos los dos del candado que va hacia arriba.
de los lados saldrán los cables hacia el 7s en la parte superior y de las marchas en la izquierda.

Empieza a soldar diodos por filas de marcha.

si lo cortas desde abajo hacia arriba luego sera más fácil.

Te debe quedar la cosa así.

Luego pones la tapa que teníamos preparada con la precaución de dejar una fila libre en la parte de arriba para poner las resistencias asi y vas soldando y cortando ( ya veras que jarton )

Las resistencias hacen como un gancho de carnicero para juntarse con el cable de salida del segmento por debajo. La razón de no meterlas debajo de la tapa es para facilitar el cambio si no nos convence el brillo
el cable rojo que cuelga es el de la alimentación - fusible y a positivo tras contacto - el blanco de la izquierda es el sensor del candado va cogido  arriba en la primera columna.El mio esta metido dentro del faro, así cojo alimentación del positivo tras el contacto, unos 30 cm de cable para llegar al display y lo necesario para llegar al interruptor del motor por otro lado.


Esto lo se porque me pasó. :2:

Metelo en la funda y echa cola caliente con pistola para cerrar el borde.


Conectalo a la moto como ya sabes y obtienes esto:  :15:

Ah! no que lo que buscabamos era esto otro  :4:  :56:  :24:


[size=150]Como he colocado el display:[/size]

Cuadra el agujero en el centro, teniendo en cuenta que es posible que el centro del numero no este en el centro del display ( eh ZerraK007?  :15: )


Luego metes el display con el borde biselado para rellenar con pega o lo que tengas para igualar y que quede plano( lo tendrás que lijar)
Enmascara los segmentos das el color que quede igualado y bien todo, quita la mascara con maña le das una fumadita del color y lacas.
De esto último no hay fotos que solo tengo dos zarpas.

Otra forma de ponerlo es con arcilla polimerica que es una plastilina se endurece con calor (busca por Fimo o sculpey ) el display es plástico y lo puedes cortar y putear bastante mas de lo que crees, el mio ha estado en el horno 40 min a 180º y tan fresco.
Espero que os guste, quisiera haber hecho un video pero creo que  ya esta bastante claro y nadie se rompe la cabeza para llegar a un sitio muy similar.
En la pag 2 Manu ha puesto como hacer un dimmer para la noche, graciass.

¡ muchas gracias amigo !

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on January 30, 2014, 02:10:22 AM
¡ muchas gracias amigo !

It's a pleasure!
Please what the hell is the answer? On the back of the GS500 you will see the tail _ _ _ _?:

Plate? ligth?

There is a gsxr neutral/gear switch which is a direct swap for ours which has all the positions, so you don't have to make one.
But I do admit that is pretty clever to modify the neutral switch for all gears. 
I'll have to look up the part number as I have some in the Bike Cave.

For electronics, it can be simplified with an 8 to 3 binary encoder connected to a 7 segment decoder chip. Still a nice clever old school design. Simple and reliable.

Quote from: adidasguy on January 30, 2014, 04:41:47 PM
There is a gsxr neutral/gear switch which is a direct swap for ours which has all the positions, so you don't have to make one.
But I do admit that is pretty clever to modify the neutral switch for all gears. 
I'll have to look up the part number as I have some in the Bike Cave.

For electronics, it can be simplified with an 8 to 3 binary encoder connected to a 7 segment decoder chip. Still a nice clever old school design. Simple and reliable.

I remember the gsxr part quite well

Was looking for the story on it to find the part number. A few years ago one member made some and sold them.
....Then on the WIKI saw the horrible thing on putting LEDs in your gauges - so wrong! Gauge LED's is simply pull out like. Put in LED and stick back in - not the open  the whole crap up and booger together something from scrap parts and reassemble to look like junk. That story needs to be removed and updated. The one on fork spacers is almost as bad and outdated.

AGREE!

Quote from: merenat on January 30, 2014, 02:49:04 PM

It's a pleasure!
Please what the hell is the answer? On the back of the GS500 you will see the tail _ _ _ _?:

Plate? ligth?

I took me several times of rereading this thread, and returning to it to figure out what you meant here... and that no one had answered it yet. Problem is, its been years for many of the active members to have experienced the questions, if they ever even had to...

I gather that you are stuck on the questions you must answer for a new member posting on the site.  John, the site owner, would ultimately know the answers, but I imagine the correct answer for this question is 'light'.

I recall having difficulty with one particular question (though I can't remember what it is was now, but I misunderstood by the wording), and so I can relate to your frustration.  I'm not sure what the requirement is now, but know that the questions will stop once you have posted more.  It is just an additional measure against spam.

- Bboy

Quote from: BockinBboy on January 31, 2014, 07:23:56 AM

Quote from: merenat on January 30, 2014, 02:49:04 PM

It's a pleasure!
Please what the hell is the answer? On the back of the GS500 you will see the tail _ _ _ _?:

Plate? ligth?

I took me several times of rereading this thread, and returning to it to figure out what you meant here... and that no one had answered it yet. Problem is, its been years for many of the active members to have experienced the questions, if they ever even had to...

I gather that you are stuck on the questions you must answer for a new member posting on the site.  John, the site owner, would ultimately know the answers, but I imagine the correct answer for this question is 'light'.

I recall having difficulty with one particular question (though I can't remember what it is was now, but I misunderstood by the wording), and so I can relate to your frustration.  I'm not sure what the requirement is now, but know that the questions will stop once you have posted more.  It is just an additional measure against spam.

- Bboy

Yes, it's very frustrating for me. Also I think the answer is light. But tell me no. Maybe Plate. But tell me no again. I doubt refers to the back of a girl. think it's a four letter word. But I can not imagine what is
I know of the existence of another design, but the good thing about this is that anyone you know that the welder is held by the cold side can build it.
No need to burn a board and the components are easy to get or adapt. And you can vary the output at will. you can even put these numbers in Klingon (if you want)


You understand the design right? You need to translate the process?

Apparently this question verification will end after five posts, so the light at the end of the tunnel grows bigger for you...

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=66233.0

I posted the question to John's most recent thread on the anti-spam topic, so maybe we'll get an answer or reform on that one.



- Bboy

Looks nice but way too much work

Why not one off eBay already made to work?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DstDn0O9DxM

Quote from: weedahoe on February 02, 2014, 02:55:29 PM
Why not one off eBay already made to work?

Cause the ebay model really don´t know what gear are engaged in your bike.
They only counts the times that you push and pull the lever. If you ( or somebody) move the level with the power off, the mark went wrong. And in this way you can chose the display size, colour etc... only needs a common anode display, all the other specifications is yours choice.

Quote from: BockinBboy on January 31, 2014, 08:32:56 AM
Apparently this question verification will end after five posts, so the light at the end of the tunnel grows bigger for you...

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=66233.0

I posted the question to John's most recent thread on the anti-spam topic, so maybe we'll get an answer or reform on that one.



- Bboy

here often say that
if you see light at the end of the tunnel, accelerates as it is by day!

Quote from: merenat on February 03, 2014, 02:51:58 PM

Quote from: weedahoe on February 02, 2014, 02:55:29 PM
Why not one off eBay already made to work?

Cause the ebay model really don´t know what gear are engaged in your bike.
They only counts the times that you push and pull the lever. If you ( or somebody) move the level with the power off, the mark went wrong. And in this way you can chose the display size, colour etc... only needs a common anode display, all the other specifications is yours choice.

That video you watched was one I put on my GS. It worked 100% and without issue. If you wire it like in the video with power on only at the key on then it cannot count. At Neutral it resets itself to 0.