Quote from: joweaver88 on March 12, 2014, 10:35:19 PM
Now I am trying to get the cover off the left hand side of the bike to check the oil pressure switch but I cant get the cover off, all the bolts are out but it is stuck fast and I have tried leverage.

That's the magnetic adhesion force between the stator and the permanent magnets on the rotor (flywheel); work it a little and eventually you'll get it off.

Quote from: joweaver88 on March 12, 2014, 10:35:19 PM
So I was able to get it on the center stand finally and I drained the oil which actually was pretty nasty looking and apparently it had just been changed... so I am not sure whats up with that. The filter *was installed correctly but it is pretty nasty looking too. Funny thing, I let the oil drain from the drain plug for like an hour but when I popped the cover holding the oil filter in a bunch of oil gushed out... is this normal?

Now I am trying to get the cover off the left hand side of the bike to check the oil pressure switch but I cant get the cover off, all the bolts are out but it is stuck fast and I have tried leverage. Any suggestions on how to inspect the oil pressure switch? I also am not sure if I traced the correct wire from the switch either...

Oil from oil filter cover is normal.

The oil sensor is on the right side, in there with the timing rotor and pickups.

Left side has the stator and magneto - no oil sensor in that side.

Ok so I went ahead and put the old oil filter back in, (I ordered a new one so I will have to change the oil again soon). Anyway I put the filter back and buttoned everything down and then filled it back up until the stick told me it was full. Put the cap back on and tried to start it. As soon as I turn the key to ON the oil pressure light comes on and the engine will turn over but wont start. Suggestions? I will check the switch tomorrow when I can go buy an 8mm socket to get the cover off. But in the meantime, theories and suggestions are welcome!! 

Quote from: joweaver88 on March 12, 2014, 02:06:22 PM
Ok I will check again correctly. Unfortunately its damn near impossible for me to get it on the center stand by myself... I neither weigh enough or am strong enough I will have to enlist the help of a friend.

jo I am 5'10"  weighing 140 due to health declining lol. anyhoo its easy to get her up on center stand. using proper technique. there are many well not many, but more than one. what I use is a variation of what adidasguy did in his video.
Aaron

Just to make sure, does the oil light come on immediately as the bike dies, a little before or a little after?
The bike has no way if protecting itself as you indicated, if the oil light comes on it will run until either you notice and stop or till the engine seizes.
Normally the oil light comes on the instant revs get down close to zero.
I think you see the light due to loss off pressure from a stall, not the other way round.
A decent oil pressure gauge is about 40$, or a garage can test it,   But it seems to me unlikely that you would suddenly lose pressure like that.


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You should expect some oil to remain in that oil filter compartment... not a ton, but some for sure... I have never measured how much comes out, but I expect its in the neighbourhood 8oz/1cup, plus whatever remains in the filter. 

When doing an oil change not replacing filter you use 2.6L, and with filter change you use 2.9L... so tells me .3L or about 10oz is in that filter/compartment somewhere 

- Bboy

I have seen my oil light come on before with no problems. Your oil should be black if it has been used mine will be black after a 100 miles I use castrol synthetic change it every 3000. Some oil will come out when you take filter out but I'm assuming you didn't heat up the bike before draining is why you had so much come out. When doing a oil change make sure the bike is warm so it drains good


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Quote from: joweaver88 on March 13, 2014, 12:10:43 AM
Ok so I went ahead and put the old oil filter back in, (I ordered a new one so I will have to change the oil again soon). Anyway I put the filter back and buttoned everything down and then filled it back up until the stick told me it was full. Put the cap back on and tried to start it. As soon as I turn the key to ON the oil pressure light comes on and the engine will turn over but wont start. Suggestions? I will check the switch tomorrow when I can go buy an 8mm socket to get the cover off. But in the meantime, theories and suggestions are welcome!! 

Turn the key to on and the oil red light will come on. That is normal.
The oil filter being removed = you have emptied the chamber, and expect the level to drop and you have to fill it some to get it back to the top of the cross hatch on the dipstick.
Do not touch that round cover on the right side ... and you dont have a prayer anyway with 8mm socket. Its 7mm. And why are you buying sockets 1 @ a time anyway. You buy a whole rack full of em.
The oil pressure switch is not your issue.
You have a carb issue, fuel flow or fuel quality or other issue.
Forget the oil, its a "red light herring". He he ... take that you philosophy major.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on March 13, 2014, 09:12:51 AM...........The oil pressure switch is not your issue.
You have a carb issue, fuel flow or fuel quality or other issue.
Forget the oil, its a "red light herring". He he ... take that you philosophy major.

Cool.
Buddha.

+1

Need to get those gas filters off too, the screen on the tank pickup is enough.  But did you take a good look in the gas tank for rust, a 98 GS with only 2400 miles on it is a likely candidate for a rusty tank and a likely reason for the PO to have put them on.

I'm not one to mess with carbs unless it's absolutely necessary and frequently say here "Don't mess with your carbs and they won't mess with you" but a 14 year old bike with only a few thousand miles on it is a definite candidate for a tear down cleaning and rebuild.  Good time to rejet if you intend to ride winters like I do, 2000 and older GSs with 2 circuit carbs need it for winter use.

No comment on the philosophy major remark, it's been 60 years since I sat in a college classroom.   

Haha I am not a philosophy major! that was a joke lol. I have a bachelors in IT and a masters in business and I finished that 2 years ago so I haven't been in college for a bit now.

Anyway back to the motorbike!! So you are right that is has nothing to do with the oil, I was thinking that the oil pressure switch also kept the engine from running but I guess the GS engine is more basic than that. So after I pushed it home the other night I couldnt get it started at all, it turned over fine and it has a brand new battery and brand new spark plugs so it is unlikely it is not getting spark. So if it isn't spark and it isn't some sensor then it has to be fuel!

So I just walked down to my unfriendly neighborhood o'reillys and purchased some handy dandy starting fluid. I pop the seat so I can aim it into the air filter I put the bike in neutral and I used my belt to hold the clutch down because for some reason the universe decided not to provide me with 3 arms and hands... I'll be sure to ask the first philosophy major I run into why. Anyway so I spray the start fluid in as I am pressing the ignition button and VROOM! The engine starts instantly and stayed running... then when I shut it off I was able to start it again without the starter fluid.

So I would say that the evidence is pretty clear that this is a fuel issue... so time to rebuild it. I put some fuel system cleaner in the tank because it did have some rust on the inside. Then after I run that for awhile I will pull the tank and replace the petcock (it is damaged, I have no reserve, stalk is broke), get rid of the inline fuel filters, put new fuel lines on, rebuild the carbs and rejet them at the same time (based off the how to on the wiki), and I will probably throw on a lunchbox air filter at the same time. That should do the trick you think?

What - this is confusing ... did you try starting it in PRI ?
I dont think you have an issue ...

You must work for microsoft ... or atleast your bike does ... it decided to not work for no apparent reason.
3 hands ... you not heard of a zip tie ?

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: joweaver88 on March 13, 2014, 11:29:56 AM
... rebuild the carbs and rejet them at the same time (based off the how to on the wiki), and I will probably throw on a lunchbox air filter at the same time. That should do the trick you think?

On rejetting... I would suggest that you make sure you get the carbs cleaned up to run correctly with stock setup of air filter and jets, then delve into rejetting with a lunchbox.  You don't want to miss something before a rejet, then add that to the mix, and start chasing a moving target.  Countless threads on folks getting ahead of themselves like that, and creating a much larger headache than it ever needed.  If you get it to run good with stock setup and having already gone through the carbs, the rejet will be a snap when you return to do that - so don't think you are saving yourself any time by doing it at the same time you rebuild the carbs unless it runs stock correctly first.  You gotta be systematic with stuff, especially if you are inexperienced with it.  Plus!... You'll learn more and know your bike better... I know you business majors are all about end results, but how to get there matters on this one   

- Bboy

Quote from: The Buddha on March 13, 2014, 12:40:54 PM
What - this is confusing ... did you try starting it in PRI ?
I dont think you have an issue ...

You must work for microsoft ... or atleast your bike does ... it decided to not work for no apparent reason.
3 hands ... you not heard of a zip tie ?

Cool.
Buddha.

Haha I didnt want it to have to cut something off... but my belt worked just fine

So here is the status of the fuel system and some more info... lets recap, the petcock has broken intake stems so now the regular side and reserve side are at roughly the same level inside the tank. Coming down off the petcock there were two automotive type fuel filters, I was only able to replace one with the correct kind of filter and I am pretty sure it was on the reserve side (it was slightly easier to get to). Carbs have supposedly been cleaned recently but who knows to what level (it may have just been sprayed out). I have tried all three positions on the fuel selector valve with the following results.

ON: engine will not start and it will die if I switch to this with the engine already running
Reserve: engine will not start but it will continue to run for a few minutes if I switch to it after starting
PRI: engine will start but unless the gas tank is filled to the brim it will only run for a few minutes

I went on a ride a bit ago (not too far from home this time) and I had it set to PRI and it was surging real bad again and every few minutes it would die and wouldn't start again without starter fluid... and then rinse repeat. So I pushed it to a gas station to see if what I did last time would work again. I filled the gas tank all the way to the brim (except with 87 octane this time) and it started on its own again and seems to run well.

Increasing the amount of fuel in the tank increases the fuel pressure, so it runs fine at a higher fuel pressure, but as soon as the tank passes about 3/4 full it starts running like crap and dying again. Do you think this is a carb issue or higher up on the fuel system?

I'd guess fuel filters.
Get a new tank petcock for $35. Even a good used one would be OK.
Clean out the frame petcock. If in doubt, buy a new or used one.
Connect things up correctly with no fuel filters and report back.

ebay petcock links
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=%22gs500%22+petcock+tank&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.X%22gs500%22+petcock&_nkw=%22gs500%22+petcock&_sacat=0

Ok I ordered all the parts I should need, brand new tank petcock with screen, new 5/16 fuel line, and two K&L carb rebuild kits. I will report back once the repairs are underway!

I am nearly certain you dont need these parts.

You likely have something messed up in hose routing, or maybe someone has hooked up that carb atmospheric vent into something. Or they have routed vacuum line wrong.

Cool.
Buddha.

Well the tank petcock needs to be replaced anyway because the plastic stalk with the screen is missing... so I have no reserve, and I would like it to function. Fuel lines are a bit dry rotted but aren't leaking... might as well replace them. You are probably right about the carbs but for my own peace of mind I would like to rebuild them so I know that they are clean and functional going forward.

Quote from: joweaver88 on March 14, 2014, 04:38:25 PM
Well the tank petcock needs to be replaced anyway because the plastic stalk with the screen is missing... so I have no reserve, and I would like it to function. Fuel lines are a bit dry rotted but aren't leaking... might as well replace them. You are probably right about the carbs but for my own peace of mind I would like to rebuild them so I know that they are clean and functional going forward.

The plastic pickup screen missing = bike will run in on till you're plumb out of gas. And it likely is inside the tank loose somewhere. In any case it will not make the thing run only when full on prime etc etc.

Yea carb rebuild, one more of those things people like to spend lots of time and $$ on and end up worse than before. The Gaskets in your bike now are not leaking, you dont need a rebuild. If they are leaking, you can swap O rings ... WTH is a rebuild anyway, the only reason you need a "Kit" is if the float gasket is leaking and you have taken it apart and seen that its broken or cut. The new "rebuild kits" are chinese junk. They barely hold 2 years. The ones in the bikes are far better quality, you can get a lifetime, or 20+ years from those.

I'm pretty sure you have something badly routed in the hoses etc. Can you put that up.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on March 15, 2014, 11:14:00 PM

Quote from: joweaver88 on March 14, 2014, 04:38:25 PM
Well the tank petcock needs to be replaced anyway because the plastic stalk with the screen is missing... so I have no reserve, and I would like it to function. Fuel lines are a bit dry rotted but aren't leaking... might as well replace them. You are probably right about the carbs but for my own peace of mind I would like to rebuild them so I know that they are clean and functional going forward.

The plastic pickup screen missing = bike will run in on till you're plumb out of gas. And it likely is inside the tank loose somewhere. In any case it will not make the thing run only when full on prime etc etc.

Yea carb rebuild, one more of those things people like to spend lots of time and $$ on and end up worse than before. The Gaskets in your bike now are not leaking, you dont need a rebuild. If they are leaking, you can swap O rings ... WTH is a rebuild anyway, the only reason you need a "Kit" is if the float gasket is leaking and you have taken it apart and seen that its broken or cut. The new "rebuild kits" are chinese junk. They barely hold 2 years. The ones in the bikes are far better quality, you can get a lifetime, or 20+ years from those.

I'm pretty sure you have something badly routed in the hoses etc. Can you put that up.

Cool.
Buddha.

Oh I know the broken petcock isn't the problem... the point is if I am going to be taking the tank all the way off to get to the rest of the fuel system I might as well fix all that is wrong... these are relatively inexpensive parts so might as well do it. It is something to do with the hose routing but I want to have the parts on hand to fix any other problems I might have in that system. When I get the tank off I will take some pics of the hose routing and post it to see if you see a problem.