For the most part, I followed this really well written article: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=25426.0

I don't see the point in re-inviting the wheel, so I'll just add my differences. I can do a full picture write up if requested, but other than a few additional parts, it is the same as the one from "Turd Ferguson".

Instead of cutting, filing, or bending existing parts - I recycled additional parts off of a gsx600/750f and a gsxr. To me, it was worth it not to have to risk bending something, and to have a VERY easy back-out plan.

• 1. In place of heating and bending the steel brake arm of the GS500, I used a '97 gsxr600/750 brake arm (aluminum, lighter, thinner and already bent out enough). I then added two 10mm washers to the front to shimmy it out a little bit further (it has a wider front mount point than the GS500, so washers are needed). After finally getting enough clearance on the chain side, I re-checked the brake arm, and even with the gsxr arm there wasn't enough clearance. I will try to carefully bend the gsxr arm (I've already bought it, might as well try it), and if all else fails bend the GS arm.
• Rather than measuring and cutting/filing the existing caliper mount, I used an '05 katana caliper mount. Fit's like a glove!
• Instead of re-using the existing GS500 rear disk, I used an '06 gsx600f rear disc.
• The rear wheel came with a 150/70/17 radial. From what I've read, radial rear and bias front should be OK.
• As is, the chain will clear with a hair under 1/8". I plan on adding 5 washers to the rear sprocket before taking her out for a ride (and enabling future use of 160/70/17's, if desired).

Good right up, but mixing bia and radials is a big no no

Thanks! But the big no-no is turning into a myth. Some new bikes even ship with radial rear bias front (some of the harley's & yamaha's are among them). Radial rear and bias front seems to be OK, but Radial front bias Rear - appears to cause possible issues with handling and braking.

Over here http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=31526.0, on reply #6 - GSJack mentions running Conti RoadAttacks on the rear (which are radials, i believe) and lazertec's on the front (which are bias).

Here are a couple of forum links about radial/bias mixers:

http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=23073.0

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=469595

Well I know when I am wrong..was told for years never mix them no matter what end there on. I will have to look at my brothers bike, he has a brand new bolt think front and rear are radials though

The only thing I'm concerned with here is sprocket alignment.  When the front and rear sprocket don't follow a straight line, I'm thinking it will cause much increased wear on the chain and sprockets, and even possibly the output shaft.

Sprocket alignment is something I'm concerned about as well, but not enough to stop from trying it for a few thousand miles  .

It might be worth it to PM "Turd Ferguson" to see if they had any issues with that setup. That or if anyone else who has followed that write up could chime in on the sprocket alignment - your input would be greatly appreciated!

I have read about people running a katana rear with only slightly less chain life. I almost bought a wonderful example of a gs near me in RI gsxr front end and katana rear wheel..I think he used to post on here..I had talked to him way back when and he didnt have any issues

Hey marider where are you from New Bedford mass over here


Sent from my heart using my fingers

Dont want to thread jack but I am in worcester..Keeps you on your toes trying to ride here for sure. I am trying to get a big ride together with like minded riders...ie not riding like asshats.

I removed the rear wheel and added the washers between the sprocket & hub. I'm struggling to get 1/8" clearance even with the washers. I'm not 100% sure what is going on. I didn't take a baseline, and the bike was used when I bought her - so not ruling out a bent rear arm just yet (not ruling anything out, for that matter).

I assume your talking about the 150/70 tire on the 4.5" Kat rim that has barely 1/8" clearance?

The 160/60 M-1 tire Turd mounted was unusual in that it was made for a preferred rim width of 5.5" and not for a 4.5" rim commonly used for that size tire.  Rule of thumb, a tire mounted on a 1/2" wider or narrower rim will be 5mm/.2" wider or narrower.  So if you mount the 160/60 M-1 on a 4.5" it will be only about 150mm wide and a 15070 or 60 designed for the standard 4.0" preferred rim width mounted on a 4.5" rim will be 155mm wide.  Good example of a 150 being wider than a 160.

Turd didn't like the handling of that 160/60 M-1 saying it was too pointed and said he would use a 150 next time.  Another member tried a 160/60 Dunlop shortly after Turd's conversion and it was too wide to fit.

I've run quite a few tires on rims that were 1/2" wider or narrower than preferred rim widths and they worked out well but 1" off is stretching it a bit as far as profile shape goes.  I'd run a 150 on that Kat wheel if I had one like Suzuki did with the Kats.

A couple of my 150 tires mounted on stock 3.5"rims, looks like they would be close to the chain if they were 5mm/.2" wider on each side mounted on a 4.5" rim:



Reference: 

Gs jack you had the 150/70 road attacks on the stock gs rim? It would b cheaper for me to just go with that instead of a katana wheel swap


Sent from my heart using my fingers

Yes, I've run the 150/70 Lasertec, RoadAttack, and Roadrider tires on stock 3.5" rims. All have been fitments approved by tires maker. Also I have run a 150/60 Shinko 006 on stock rim which isn't approved by anyone but has been run by many.  They use to race on 150/60 supersport tires on 3.5" rims before more suitable sizes became available recently.

http://gstwin.com/racers_corner.htm

Tires I've run on stock rims:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500tirelogs_zpse04c1f44.jpg

Quote from: 0Bw4n on May 29, 2014, 06:16:52 AM
Thanks! But the big no-no is turning into a myth. Some new bikes even ship with radial rear bias front (some of the harley's & yamaha's are among them). Radial rear and bias front seems to be OK, but Radial front bias Rear - appears to cause possible issues with handling and braking.

Over here http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=31526.0, on reply #6 - GSJack mentions running Conti RoadAttacks on the rear (which are radials, i believe) and lazertec's on the front (which are bias).

Here are a couple of forum links about radial/bias mixers:

http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=23073.0

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=469595

Radials vs bias ply myth, I never believed that myth ... for 2 reasons ... most of the Idiots that pushed that myth were into selling tires ... and they usually told you after fitting your tire ... so you then are stuck with swapping the other one too. And 2 the one old timer I knew well and wasn't selling anything used to run em mixed on everything he had and he said the reason you dont mix them is ... get this ... radials get fatter and shorter as you over inflate them, and bias ply gets that way when you underinflate them, and most people dont remember that. That is it. As long as you take that into account while inflating them, you're good.

And dont push the rear sproket out too much, you will wear out the front sproket and chain too fast. Align the rear sproket to the front. Run the right size tire so it wont hit the chain.
Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks for all the replies and information!

I finally got (slightly more than) enough clearance. It's been raining a lot in the afternoons, so I haven't wanted to try it out just yet (too many other new variables to test in the rain). Hopefully it will be dry enough tomorrow to give it a test ride.

It shouldn't take a whole lot of shimming of the sprocket.  I recall that I have around 1/16" of washers on mine.  No issues after 8 years and there's simply no way the chain line is sensitive to that kind of misalignment.  For an idea of scale, I'd venture a guess that assembly and manufacturing tolerance stack ups put the front and rear sprocket farther out of alignment on most motorcycles from the factory.  Again, mine shows no signs of abnormal wear in 8 years, as I still have the bike.

However, running more than 1/16" of spacers would concern me, as this would push the rear sprocket ID outside of the cush drive.  I'd assume that this helps center the sprocket and carries at least some of the load when you go braaaaaaaap!

Dan

I took one last look around before finally took it for a shake down ride (more than 2 miles). I had to make it today, it's the only day it's not supposed to rain (and I don't want to try all the new things out in the rain). Before I left, I noticed a big issue with the rear brake bar. Even with the additional clearance provided by the gsxr bar, it was still too close. I have some make shift spacers in place for now, but will need to get some real spacers or bend the aluminum bar. I'm leaning towards the latter. Aluminium should be easier to bend than steel, right? 

The issue with bending aluminum from what I have read..not from personal experience is that aluminum has a "memory" which inturn means the structure of it may crack if not done properly..just out of curiosity why don't you just bend your gs one?

I may buy a second GS one and bend it - I like the idea of easily going back to stock should the need arise.

Other than that, I was just trying to find a way to do the swap without bending or modifying anything too much (don't mind adding a couple of washers/spacers).