Thanks I'll look into those, but what I meant was if mine are working properly is there anything else I should be checking or is that the only thing that could be causing this ?

There are a few other things that could cause the difference between the plugs, but I would say it's most likely the needle valves.

Other things that you could test would be:
1. Air Leaks (check carb boots for cracks, missing/bad orings, compromised diaphragms)
2. Mixture Screws turned out different amounts from lightly seated (would only affect mixture at idle to 1/4 throttle)
3. Carb Balance (once again would only have major impact with throttle close to closed)
4. Choke stuck open on one side
5. Different jets on each side (I assume that you did this right)

Thanks man!
1. I've checked multiple times with wd40 but can try again
2. Both set at 3 but I can reset them
3. Working on a manometer atm
4. I believe the choke is good but can recheck
5. Def the same jets
And with the carb rebuild kit there was one very small o-ring that I couldn't figure out where it went

Thanks man!
1. I've checked multiple times with wd40 but can try again
2. Both set at 3 but I can reset them
3. Working on a manometer atm
4. I believe the choke is good but can recheck
5. Def the same jets
And with the carb rebuild kit there was one very small o-ring that I couldn't figure out where it went

The small oring goes underneath the mixture screw needle, spring and washer.   You will see what I'm talking about if you unscrew your mixture screws completely and everything under them out.  Just be careful not to lose the very small spring and washer.

Ok thanks! So the power loss was actually due to it running off 1 cylinder because the side with the bad plug wasn't even firing, the bike has tons more power the the rpm's stay kinda high but I think it's due to the carbs needing to be balanced

Quote from: Thrillwill352 on June 10, 2014, 05:02:38 PM
Ok thanks! So the power loss was actually due to it running off 1 cylinder because the side with the bad plug wasn't even firing, the bike has tons more power the the rpm's stay kinda high but I think it's due to the carbs needing to be balanced

So can I assume that you fixed the issue now?  High idle could be due to just having the idle speed screw turned in too far.  Set the idle speed once the bike is warmed up fully.  When it's in the right place, you will probably need the choke for a while before the bike will hold a good idle when cold.

Yup power issue solved now I just need to fine tune everything. I've tried setting the air fuel mixture while running and it was very difficult and hard to get in there and hard to get them to the same amount of turns so for now I'll go down to 2.5 and see how that does and balance the carbs then valve clearance then I can start working on getting the blinkers working!

Don't balance your carbs until after valve clearances are checked.  If you change the shims, it will alter the balance.

Good point I didn't think of that, I have a feeler gauge with all the sizes I need but not the shim removal tool is this something  I should let the shop take care of? Or would I be fine doing this on my own? Also what're the chances the gaskets will be good? Should I go ahead and order them now? 

Gaskets are most likely reuseable, but you will need the black sealer product for the half moon shape sections of the valve cover gasket.  I would recommend buying the special tool, because it's a huge PITA without it.

Quote from: bombsquad83 on June 11, 2014, 06:21:36 AM
Don't balance your carbs until after valve clearances are checked.  If you change the shims, it will alter the balance.

this is true. VERY true. youd end up doing job twice

Going to pick up the valve shim tool Saturday as well as some sealant, then adjust idle screws and sync carb! Thanks for all the help so far! I'll keep you guys updated!