I'm at a loss of what to do if i turn the bike on after it's warmed up it idles at 1.5k as soon as I drive down the street and put it in N or 1st gear it will either drop idle all the way and die or it will rev up to 3k. If it is idling at 3k I put it in first hold the front brake and slowly realeses the clutch a tad it will drop my idle to 1.5k and stay there until the next red light. What can be causing this?

I have checked for air leaks
Replaced my diagram on top of carbs
Cleaned the carbs 5x
Thottle cable is not sticking or stuck
Float height is level

I have 147.5 mains, 20, and  65...   two washers and air screws are 2.5 right now

2007 gs500 delkevic slip on exhaust, and K&n pods

3k idle - Ok go to 3.5 turns on idle screws.
Cool.
Buddha.

Ok will check back tomorrow I have the pair system and I plugged the hose going to the bottom of the air filter with a rubber stopper but I just put a small filter on the hose and the engine sounds better? Idk if im crazy tho lol

I have a very similar problem. Bike is in the shop and they are chasing down a hang idle. I can also get it to rev normal by letting the clutch out a little or turning the bike on/off, but when I come to a stop it jumps back up to 3500 rpm.

Its been there for over a month now and the next step is to replace the entire carb setup but im hoping there is another solution.

Sitting here hoping you have found a solution 

Quote from: BigBabyMoses06 on June 18, 2014, 08:13:56 AM
I have a very similar problem. Bike is in the shop and they are chasing down a hang idle. I can also get it to rev normal by letting the clutch out a little or turning the bike on/off, but when I come to a stop it jumps back up to 3500 rpm.

Its been there for over a month now and the next step is to replace the entire carb setup but im hoping there is another solution.

Sitting here hoping you have found a solution 

Have you ruled out clutch adjustment, or cable issues with clutch, throttle, and choke?  Also make sure to rule out choked engagement at the carbs, ensuring that the spring is connected correctly.

- Bboy

Also make sure not to set your idle speed screw too high.  The best way to do it is to get the bike completely warm.  Not just 2 minutes of idling a few revs in neutral, I'm talking about like 15 minutes of really riding it.

Quote from: BockinBboy on June 18, 2014, 08:34:43 AM

Quote from: BigBabyMoses06 on June 18, 2014, 08:13:56 AM
I have a very similar problem. Bike is in the shop and they are chasing down a hang idle. I can also get it to rev normal by letting the clutch out a little or turning the bike on/off, but when I come to a stop it jumps back up to 3500 rpm.

Its been there for over a month now and the next step is to replace the entire carb setup but im hoping there is another solution.

Sitting here hoping you have found a solution 

Have you ruled out clutch adjustment, or cable issues with clutch, throttle, and choke?  Also make sure to rule out choked engagement at the carbs, ensuring that the spring is connected correctly.

- Bboy

I understand a bad throttle or chocke lever but curious how a bad clutch line would effect idle? If we are engaging it by slowly releasing the clutch and idle drops and pull clutch all the way back in wouldn't that mean our clutches are working fine?

Ok 3.5 air turns doesn't seem to change anything. Any other ideas?

QuoteI understand a bad throttle or chocke lever but curious how a bad clutch line would effect idle? If we are engaging it by slowly releasing the clutch and idle drops and pull clutch all the way back in wouldn't that mean our clutches are working fine?

I think the though is your bike is idling at 3k or so, and a faulty clutch is causing it to drag down to 1.5K some of the time......IDK it really does not make any sense to me 

Have you checked your timing ?  With a light?
Also it might be a good ideas to clean the carbs and test my plugging the air filter hole. This should make the bike shut off if it does not you got a leak.

Quote from: robfriedenberger on June 18, 2014, 11:55:16 PM

QuoteI understand a bad throttle or chocke lever but curious how a bad clutch line would effect idle? If we are engaging it by slowly releasing the clutch and idle drops and pull clutch all the way back in wouldn't that mean our clutches are working fine?

I think the though is your bike is idling at 3k or so, and a faulty clutch is causing it to drag down to 1.5K some of the time......IDK it really does not make any sense to me 

Have you checked your timing ?  With a light?
Also it might be a good ideas to clean the carbs and test my plugging the air filter hole. This should make the bike shut off if it does not you got a leak.

I see maybe I'm bad at explaining I have seen a few threads of people explaining what we mean lol basically if you pull up to a red light your In 1st gear and your at a stop, clutch in and your idle is at 3.5k you squeeze the front brake hard and slowly realeses the clutch not all the way just to the friction zone the bike will attempt to move but the brake is applied so it starts to stall..  The rpms will drop when they hit 2k and under squeeze the clutch back in and the rpms will stay at 1.5k then it's fine. Until the next red light.


As for plugging the air filer holes I did that and it died within a few seconds I tested every where for leaks there is none

^Exactly. Same deal.

I just got a call back from the shop, and they have tried everything, other than replacing the carbs which is the next step. They have done jetting, balancing, looked at every little piece in side, checked all the linkages and cables, and then some mumbojumbo that my mechanically UN-inclined brain didn't understand lol. And all that, 5 times over. 

Since the carbs are back on it, I am going to ride it for the rest of the season and either sell the bike at the end or work on it over the winter, but if a good reputable shop cant fix it, I have doubts that I can too.

Bumped to 4 turns riding a little better, I think 4.25 or 4.5 turns might fix the issue maybe is that ok to do?

4 turns dose not sound right.......I think some thing is off with your carbs.....Depending on how much city riding your doing you might be taking a chance of over heating the motor or wearing out the clutch.

I'm thinking air leak somewhere.

Agreed 4 turns was better but not worth it, it actually had to much air and amount of choke would kill the bike I'm going to pull the carbs again this weekend for the 100th time  i have seen a thread on  a differnt forum of someone boiling there carbs in water and pine sol is this something I should try?

Before you tear everything down again, check again for air leaks.  Do you have any vacuum tubes that are not attached as they should be?  Also check your boots between the carbs and the engine thoroughly for cracks.  Make sure you have the carbs fully into the grove in the boots.  Also make sure your air filters are properly clamped.

I will check again last time I checked no cracks and air filter tighten all the way sprayed carb cleaner and wd40 everywhere and never got a jump in idle

When I pull the pilot jet will the pilot jet holder come out? If so how because I know there is an oring under that.

Also if my float gasket look bad but don't cause any leaks will this caz my idle to jump up? I sprayed cleaner on the outside and it never jumped in idle so I figured they were ok until they got here  (they are already order and being shipped)

Also before you dismantle your carbs, you might as well check your float height with the clear U shape tube from the drain method.  The gas level should be even with the float bowl gaskets (petcock on prime).  Turn the petcock off prime when you are done.

Easy way to check for AIR leaks....Atleast major ones....Put your hand over the air filter...This should kill the bike if there is not any Air leaks. if there is than it should continue to run with no to little drop in RPM

Okay I'm working on the bike the first thing I did was have bike warmed up and I pulled my left coil bike died instantly plugged it back in and turned bike back on pulled right coil and bike idle the same and nothing changed. What does this mean?

Pulled the spark plug and grounded out of the motor to test for spark and nothing

Right side has very week spark yellow color