So somehow during the course of performing the 4k mile service, I apparently managed to kill the starter motor. The battery is fully charged, all the electrical stuff plugged into the ignition works fine (headlight, horn, turn signals, etc), it's just that pressing the start button produces no response whatsoever.

In the hope that somebody out there can trace whatever mistake i might have made, here's a list of what i did during service (omitted all misc stuff like chain free play, tire wear, etc):

-unplugged battery, cleaned it, checked electrolyte level
-removed spark plugs, checked gaps
-changed engine oil and filter
-replaced oil pan gasket to try and track down an oil leak
-lubed and adjusted all cables (which required unscrewing the right hand switchgear assembly)
-I also removed the left (magneto) side crankcase cover and replaced the gasket there (before doing this i removed the clutch cover on the left side to get access to the other end of the clutch cable)

Yes i remembered to replace the spark plugs and plug caps. The battery is charged. The main fuse is also intact. The engine killswitch wiring, sidestand switch, as well as wiring coming from magneto in left side crankcase all seem intact. I thought that maybe i connected the clutch cable incorrectly, making the engine think it wasn't in neutral or something, but it appears to be working correctly. I'm a bit hesitant to remove the leftside crankcase again, because i already filled the engine with oil, but i have a paranoid suspision that maybe i damaged one of the wires coming to the magneto.

Any ideas? I'm really dumb when it comes to wiring, but i suspect that i might have to invest in a multimeter and start poking around down there to sniff out the problem. Taking the bike to the dealer will probably only result in him ordering a new magneto and crankcase cover ($$$ and @*%&!)  

It's kind of hard to pick the BEST place to start, but maybe these diagrams will give you some clues:

Clymer Diagram 1

Clymer Diagram 2  (Similar to the previous one, but with wire colors labelled and a few extra details.)

wiring diagram link  (Full color diagram, but it contains EVERYTHING, and not just the starting system stuff.)

Here are some of the more important components from the BIG diagram, to help you with wire colors and give you some idea about the internals of each part.  I neglected to include the Neutral Switch, but you should be able to pick that out of the full diagram:













If you want to make sure that your starter relay and starter motor are OK (which they probably are), take a few minutes to look through the thread bike won't start!!!.  It has pictures of the procedure, and a few tips on using that multimeter....

BTW, are you referring to the alternator as the magneto?  If so, it's not part of the circuit that spins the starter motor.  But in that area of the bike ... maybe the neutral switch wire was damaged?  Does the neutral indicator light work?

EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

My apologies if this suggestions is insulting but ... check to see if the red "kill switch" was inadvertantly flipped off.  I found myself stranded one day, looking for every conceivable loose connection when I, in fact, somehow flipped the switch while riding.

Thanks Gary!  I'm so entrenched in the MSF practice of using the Engine Kill switch on every ride that I never think to suggest that one....

and put the kick stand up too.

n00b  :kiss:

Hi folks,  I'm new to this forum and also to motorcycling.  A 1992 model is my first bike. I've been reading Clymer's (first edition) to familiarize myself with  it. Especially the electrical part.

I have found a couple of errors in one of the wiring diagrams referred to in this thread.  Figure 13 (and 32),  which shows the wiring for the starting system,  has errors at the diode and at the sidestand relay.  I suggest just ignoring these figures and look at Fig 27 or one of the full schematics.

If the bike were wired per Fig. 13 (and 32) the diode that is wired to the ignition switch would be fried when the ignition switch and neutral switch are closed.  Also the internal connections at the sidestand relay look goofy.  Again,  just refer to Fig 27.

Maybe a later edition of Clymer corrected this.

I really like the full color schematic referenced here.

This group is great!

Thanks to all.

Yes I've tried the killswitch and kickstand, but thanks for the suggestions. Actually that's what's so frustrating about this...I'd really like the problem to be something obvious like that, but i think i've eliminated all those possibilities.

And Kerry, the neutral light does work, yes. I'm not really sure WHAT i'm referring to as the magneto. To avoid confusion, i'm talking about the heavy coil of copper wires that's inside the left side crankcase cover. It has three yellow wires attached to it which run out of the crankcase and to the wiring harness.

:dunno:  :x  :dunno:

OK light come on but no whirr from starter... OK the additional ground wire from batter is open/disconnected... that's the only possibility... it kills just the motor fuctions... ha ha motor function... just anyhting related to the engine/bolted to the engine wont work.
Cool.
Srinath.

Also you may not ba making contact properly wiht the start button... wear internally can make that happen.
Cool.
Srinath.

I had the same prob when I dumped my bike doing a stunt. Turned out that the spill had somehow jammed my clutch switch under the lever to open. The bike wouldn't turn over at all even though lights, horn, etc. all worked. Check to see if the wires leading to the switch also didnt come loose. This would be a simple check. Anyways, if thats not it then I still think its most likely just a disconnected circuit somewhere.

Kerry (and ollie!), thank you for bringing up the clutch safety switch. Now that i think about it, i distinctly remember hearing a snapping sound when i removed the lever from its housing to lube the cable. Today i tried unscrewing the safety switch, and sure enough the little plastic tab that fits into the clutch lever was broken off. I'm going to try and jury-rig a fix for the tab with some super glue to see if that solves it before going the whole ohm-meter route, so i've got my fingers crossed!

That's one thing that frustrates me sometimes about this whole Zen and Motorcycle Maintenance thing...is that on occasion you don't know how something works or is put together until you break it through your own ignorance and negligence. I'm sure there's a life-lesson in there somewhere, but i'm too sad about my bike not working to ponder it.

No one would happen to have a spare safety switch they wouldn't mind parting with would they? Local shop needs a solid week to order any parts from the factory.

Yea just short the thing... I rode my virago for years that way... the damn thing never worked on the virago, cos that stupid round plug thing somehow has developed a lot of play and acted like it was shorted anyway... The GS'es mechanism is better... 89-96 was the slider, the newer ones are that round plug thing, but different to the virago...
Cool.
Srinath.

I agree with srinath, just short the clutch switch.  I just replaced my handlebars and got everything back together only to realize that the bike wouldn't start.

Finally realizing it was the clutch switch, I took it apart and put it back together about 12 times and it finally started working.  That is until it just decided to stop working.  I don't like having to bypass things like this, I would rather have the original configuration but I was fed up.  

*SNIP -  SNIP* twist the wires together, electrical tape, and off you go.  Just make sure you're in neutral before you start your bike!  

If you'd rather not *SNIP - SNIP* then do what someone else on the board has mentioned.

1) Pull the two wires from the clutch switch:


2) Push the connectors over both ends of a standard paper clip.

3) Wrap the connectors-and-clip assembly in electrical tape.

4) Ride until your new switch comes in.  Be careful to pull in the clutch before you put the bike in gear!  (Duh.)

5) When your new switch comes in, undo the "eyesore" and put evrything back together.  Make sure you orient the new switch correctly!  (Check it by trying to start the bike with the switch in each slide position.)

EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

Yup problem solved. I did end up bypassing the safety switch, but I'm fairly content with the results. I simply ground off the rest of the plastic nub with a dremel, flipped the switch to 'ON', and stuffed some tape into the gap so the switch won't flip closed. Sure the bike can/may/might start without the clutch pulled in and/or in gear, but I'm already in the habit of making sure the bike's in neutral and pulling in the clutch every time i start the thing (thank you MSF for not teaching bad habits!)

Oh and Kerry, if it makes you feel any better, i did order a new switch and will install it in when it arrives.  

Quote from: WAPI simply ground off the rest of the plastic nub with a dremel, flipped the switch to 'ON', and stuffed some tape into the gap so the switch won't flip closed.

Ah!  A much cleaner solution, since your switch is electrically fine.  Good thinking!