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So my clutch stopped working just now.

Started by enrgizerbunny, September 16, 2014, 05:37:29 PM

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enrgizerbunny

If anyone saw my other thread, my bike made that loud noise a couple times recently, at all rpm ranges. Most recently it did it (thank god it was in a parking lot) and then my clutch stopped working. The cable still retracts, but there is no resistance and it started leaking oil on the shifter side. This happened minutes ago.
Other thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67928.0

Any ideas?

Edit: My clutch handle still disengages the safety so I can still start it
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

X-ray

I'm guessing a bent/broken clutch push rod and buggered seal behind the sprocket cover. How's your chain tension?
'93 gs500 w/ Red Oxide primer paint job. Hasn't been on the road in years but wrenching on it is my escape.

enrgizerbunny

Chain tension seemed a little on the loose side, but acceptable. A shop recently put on the rear tire so they adjusted it. Is this something I would be able to do in a day or would it be worth my time to have a shop do the work?

I'm leaning toward the shop in the interest of time, I ride daily and it really helps to not feed $20 a day in gas
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

bmf

Pull the sprocket cover and have a look, it's easy and you don't need any gaskets to replace. A new pushrod and oil seal are very easy to replace, but might take a few days to order if not available locally.


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enrgizerbunny

Broken push rod. How long is it supposed to be? The pieces I pulled out are about 3 inches when I put them together. Also, I think my chain is way too loose.
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

X-ray

3 to 4 inches sounds right. The seal is behind a small metal plate thats easliy removed.   The fix is cheap and easy.
If your chain is  too loose the slack probably contacted and snaped the rod. The ? is why is your chain so loose if that's the case?
'93 gs500 w/ Red Oxide primer paint job. Hasn't been on the road in years but wrenching on it is my escape.

enrgizerbunny

Quote from: X-ray on September 17, 2014, 06:06:33 PM
3 to 4 inches sounds right. The seal is behind a small metal plate thats easliy removed.   The fix is cheap and easy.
If your chain is  too loose the slack probably contacted and snaped the rod. The ? is why is your chain so loose if that's the case?

The shop that put the rear tire on adjusted it too loose I guess. They were cheaper than the dealer to change the tire, and on price of the tire.
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

bombsquad83

Quote from: enrgizerbunny on September 17, 2014, 07:30:18 PM
Quote from: X-ray on September 17, 2014, 06:06:33 PM
3 to 4 inches sounds right. The seal is behind a small metal plate thats easliy removed.   The fix is cheap and easy.
If your chain is  too loose the slack probably contacted and snaped the rod. The ? is why is your chain so loose if that's the case?

The shop that put the rear tire on adjusted it too loose I guess. They were cheaper than the dealer to change the tire, and on price of the tire.

That sucks.  I would call them and complain.

enrgizerbunny

Quote from: bombsquad83 on September 18, 2014, 01:18:19 PM
Quote from: enrgizerbunny on September 17, 2014, 07:30:18 PM
Quote from: X-ray on September 17, 2014, 06:06:33 PM
3 to 4 inches sounds right. The seal is behind a small metal plate thats easliy removed.   The fix is cheap and easy.
If your chain is  too loose the slack probably contacted and snaped the rod. The ? is why is your chain so loose if that's the case?

The shop that put the rear tire on adjusted it too loose I guess. They were cheaper than the dealer to change the tire, and on price of the tire.

That sucks.  I would call them and complain.

I'm just going to let the mechanic know it's real mom and pop, so the mechanic comes out the back to ring me up.
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

enrgizerbunny

Finally put the bike back together last night after sitting on parts through two GREAT riding days this weekend, but alas I had some bigger fish to fry.

Turns out the push rod WAS broken into 3 pieces, the third of which was extracted after the oil seal was removed. Replaced rod/seal and took up a TON of slack in the chain and problem fixed. I don't think the original owner ever cleaned the chain, because when I opened the sprocket cover there was caked on dirt/oil that has the consistency of play dough. I want to get it completely cleaned, but I wasn't sure what to use. Dawn came to mind but I wouldn't want that to seep into my oil by way of a seal. Gunk engine brite is my second choice.

What do you guys use for cleaning chains? I tried greased lightning with a very good rinse afterward and it didn't seem to have much effect. I've gotta get the chain and sprockets cleaned up they're nasty.

I was looking forward to riding it today, but it quite literally rained on my parade this morning.
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

ShowBizWolf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSa55bspoS8&

I watched this video before I did anything with my chain.  I use WD-40 and clean the chain using the method in the vid.  I like how it works, maybe you will too?  I know there are multiple different ways so I am looking forward to what others post as well  :-)
Superbike bars, '04 GSXR headlight & cowl, DRZ signals, 1/2" fork brace, 'Busa fender, stainless exhaust & brake lines, belly pan, LED dash & brake bulbs, 140/80 rear hoop, F tail lens, SV650 shock, Bandit400 hugger, aluminum heel guards & pegs, fork preload adjusters, .75 SonicSprings, heated grips

bombsquad83

I use WD-40 and a toothbrush to clean the chain.  Then I use anti-fling chain lube.

enrgizerbunny

I'll try the WD-40. Also, my bike shifts about twice as smooth now than it did before! Still need the 3 point clutch adjustment, but I've got it with the cable for now. Oil change is coming up this week, so I'll get it then.

Do I reuse the valve cover gasket when I check the valves or do I replace it every time? The manual isn't very specific about it, just stating to have parts on hand before beginning work.
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

bombsquad83

You don't need to replace it every time, only if it's starting to deteriorate.

Shepa

#14
Does the pushrod have any signs of wear due to chain brushing over it?

Somehow it's hard to believe the chain slack caused all the damage, because, for it to even reach the pushrod it should be so slacked it would grind the bike frame, and you should feel that while riding, nevermind the constant grinding noise and jerking of bike at low speeds.

Even further, it broke in three pieces (one of them inside the crankcase), not just one (which would eventually happened if the chain was actually cutting through it), so I think the pushrod was bent or in poor condition in the first place (hence the smooth clutching after replacement).

Just my two cents.


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enrgizerbunny

Is it difficult to screw up installation of the oil seal for a push rod? I'm seeing oil dripping out of the sprocket cover now. Haven't opened it to inspect, just watching my oil level.

I used conventional ATV oil from tractor supply. Designed for wet clutches and $5 a quart instead of $6+
Be safe out there: if you want to go 120 mph get on the track or jump out of a plane.

bmf

Only real thing is to oil the seal before you install, it can be damaged if it runs dry even for a short time at initial startup.
It might be oil from your chain leaking out. I'd wait and see.


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You think Pyrrhic victory is bad you should try Pyrrhic defeat!

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