Just did my first valve check on a 2002 GS500 with 12k miles

Started by dreamweaver21, October 13, 2014, 01:46:54 PM

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dreamweaver21

I've owned this bike since 2003 but don't ride it often and never bothered to check the valve clearances.  This is my first time checking any valve clearance, I just never did it before on anything.  Anyhow, I followed the book and confirmed with the internet that I was doing it right.  I was using US feeler gauges because that is all that I could find.

On both cylinders on the INTAKE side .076mm gauge fit while the next size up .102mm did not fit.
On both cylinders on the EXHAUST side .051.. gauge fit while the next size up .076mm did not fit.

The book says .03mm - .08mm so I am in spec on the exhaust and probably on the upper end or just out of spec in the intake.

I searched the forum and read that the exhaust should be on the upper end of the spec or out of spec at ~.1mm while the intake should be in spec at .05mm or so.

Can I just swap the shims between the intake and exhaust.  In my mind that seems like that would set me about perfect.  Does that sound right?

Also, the reason I am even doing this is because the bike is running poorly.  I had to increase the idle to keep it running and it doesn't have any power off the line.  I have to baby it to get rolling from a stop especially when it is cold.  It bucks a bit and then about 4k it cleans out and lurches forward.  It is a good thing it doesn't have wheelie power because it caught me off guard the first time it happened.

I am pretty sure it is a carb issue but the book kept saying before messing with the carbs, check the valve clearance and like I said, I have not done it before so I was overdue.

twocool

You are within spec on the valves...so don't F with them...

If bike is running poorly, it is not due to the valves which are properly adjusted...changing the valves clearances at this point will not improve anything...


Cookie



Quote from: dreamweaver21 on October 13, 2014, 01:46:54 PM
I've owned this bike since 2003 but don't ride it often and never bothered to check the valve clearances.  This is my first time checking any valve clearance, I just never did it before on anything.  Anyhow, I followed the book and confirmed with the internet that I was doing it right.  I was using US feeler gauges because that is all that I could find.

On both cylinders on the INTAKE side .076mm gauge fit while the next size up .102mm did not fit.
On both cylinders on the EXHAUST side .051.. gauge fit while the next size up .076mm did not fit.

The book says .03mm - .08mm so I am in spec on the exhaust and probably on the upper end or just out of spec in the intake.

I searched the forum and read that the exhaust should be on the upper end of the spec or out of spec at ~.1mm while the intake should be in spec at .05mm or so.

Can I just swap the shims between the intake and exhaust.  In my mind that seems like that would set me about perfect.  Does that sound right?

Also, the reason I am even doing this is because the bike is running poorly.  I had to increase the idle to keep it running and it doesn't have any power off the line.  I have to baby it to get rolling from a stop especially when it is cold.  It bucks a bit and then about 4k it cleans out and lurches forward.  It is a good thing it doesn't have wheelie power because it caught me off guard the first time it happened.

I am pretty sure it is a carb issue but the book kept saying before messing with the carbs, check the valve clearance and like I said, I have not done it before so I was overdue.

J_Walker

seems fine.. 12k miles is kinda early too. as long as the valve shims aren't tight in there causing things not to close properly and imposed stresses, then theres nothing to worry about..

and for as being on the large side. as long as the valve shim can't walk itself out of the bucket, you're fine.
-Walker

twocool

Swapping the exhaust shims with the intake shims probably won't work like you suspect.  Remember you are changing the shims, not the gaps....

So you need to determine what size shim is in there, and what gap you now have, in order to figure what new size shim is needed to give the desired gap......

But again....if the shims clearances are withing spec, your running problems do not lie there....once in spec, there is no such thing as "more in spec" to cure a running problem..."out of spec", could cause a problem...

Cookie



Cookie



Quote from: dreamweaver21 on October 13, 2014, 01:46:54 PM
I've owned this bike since 2003 but don't ride it often and never bothered to check the valve clearances.  This is my first time checking any valve clearance, I just never did it before on anything.  Anyhow, I followed the book and confirmed with the internet that I was doing it right.  I was using US feeler gauges because that is all that I could find.

On both cylinders on the INTAKE side .076mm gauge fit while the next size up .102mm did not fit.
On both cylinders on the EXHAUST side .051.. gauge fit while the next size up .076mm did not fit.

The book says .03mm - .08mm so I am in spec on the exhaust and probably on the upper end or just out of spec in the intake.

I searched the forum and read that the exhaust should be on the upper end of the spec or out of spec at ~.1mm while the intake should be in spec at .05mm or so.

Can I just swap the shims between the intake and exhaust.  In my mind that seems like that would set me about perfect.  Does that sound right?

Also, the reason I am even doing this is because the bike is running poorly.  I had to increase the idle to keep it running and it doesn't have any power off the line.  I have to baby it to get rolling from a stop especially when it is cold.  It bucks a bit and then about 4k it cleans out and lurches forward.  It is a good thing it doesn't have wheelie power because it caught me off guard the first time it happened.

I am pretty sure it is a carb issue but the book kept saying before messing with the carbs, check the valve clearance and like I said, I have not done it before so I was overdue.

dreamweaver21

Points taken.  I just read that some people say to run the exhaust valves on the upper end of the spec or out of spec to keep the valve from burning.  I just figured while I was in there, I could get everything perfect.

My plugs are fairly new and look good so I am pretty cure I have a carb issue.  I guess I will just dig in and see what I find unless someone can point out a good first place to look.

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