So, I decided to go ahead and tackle the valves while I waited for Bike Master to replace my battery (more on that in a previous topic).

I decided to go ahead and try without using a shim tool. I misunderstood the write-ups, thinking that I'd be able to just lift the shim straight up and out with a magnet. Skipping past much of the saga, I ended up lifting the bucket off to get the right intake shim out. That was fine except it was much harder to get the bucket back on the valve. I ended up doing the same for the R exhaust. Now I CANNOT get the shim back on that valve.

Is it always hard get a bucket back on the valve? Is there some trick to it? There's no room to tap it in the way I got the intake bucket back on.


I really, really hate text input without a physical keyboard.

Make sure the valve is not hitting the piston. I did mine using gsjacks method with no problems, one step thinner with both exhausts. 265 to 260 if memeory serves me,but it was over a year ago.

regards
mech

Your post is not 100% clear , "chance" ?, "trapping"?..
It seems you took the cams off and removed the bucket and now they won't go back? Or is it the shim that will not go back?

The bucket should go back relatively easily with some oil and turning while inserting them to ease them in.

Shims should go straight in.

I prefer the tool, there is the possibility of damage doing it without - although some members seem to have figured out "the knack" but the solid open feeling the tool gives is reassuring.



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QuoteI ended up lifting the bucket off to get the right intake shim out. That was fine except it was much harder to get the bucket back on the valve. I ended up doing the same for the R exhaust. Now I CANNOT get the shim back on that valve.

I recently did the exact same thing... ended up having it towed in to the shop (which led to the tow company bursting my fork seals, but I digress).

If there is an easy way to put them back in, I haven't found it... But, they WON'T tap in.

No they won't tap in at least without the possibility of damage.  If the buckets were not too tight and would turn with the finger before they were removed they can be put back in with a little finesse.  At first they want to c-o-c-k a bit and become tight and need to be straightened up again before going further.  The further in they go the easier it gets. 

Some put them in the freezer overnight and they go in easy.  I pop my brake caliper pistons every time I change pads so I had some recent practice at putting a snug fit cylinder into a bore when I put my valve buckets back in, they want to c-o-c-k the same way.

With a too tight bucket some put the head in the oven and heat it to get buckets out but I didn't tave to.  With my very tight exhaust bucket that resulted in the broken valve I could drive it out from the inside with a long pin punch and and big hammer.

If you rotate the bucket as you re install it, it will almost slide in. If not, you have some issues. Re assembling and running it, may be a gamble not worth taking.
BTW The valve on this bike can hit the piston.
Its valves with hit each other, not hit the pistons.
When the cams are removed, the valves are shut, nothing can hit anything.
Your issue is the bore and bucket. Nothing else in this situation - Oooo wait, are you hitting the bore or you have a valve spring that has wobbled out of its slot.

Cool.
Buddha.