Best product to rejuvenate the plastics on our GS's ?

Started by EdE, October 30, 2014, 03:00:00 PM

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EdE

Hey guys what have you found that works really well to bring the plastics back to looking nice on the GS's. Like the rear fender and chain guard, speedo and tach bucket, handle bar controls ect ect ect??

yamahonkawazuki

Are they weathered or, well what do they look like now?
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twocool

There is a product called "Back to Black" made by "mothers"....

It works nice on Black plastic...darkens and shines...can be used on color plastic too...

Doesn't last forever...maybe apply every two or three months


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Quote from: EdE on October 30, 2014, 03:00:00 PM
Hey guys what have you found that works really well to bring the plastics back to looking nice on the GS's. Like the rear fender and chain guard, speedo and tach bucket, handle bar controls ect ect ect??

Joolstacho

#3
I've always found the only real way to do it that lasts is to wet and dry refinish, usually going to 1200 grade, or maybe to 800 grade if you wants a more matte finish.
I've found sometimes there is a surface discolouration / deterioration caused by UV.
It can depend on the part though... if it has a matte textured finish, fine grade steel wool may work.
And some plastic mouldings have a shiny surface finish that if you 'sand' through you reveal a more 'grainy' interior, then it's much harder to fix.
Always really thoroughly degrease then thoroughly wash the part before refinishing.

PS. IMHO I don't think you'll find a 'product' that will do a good job and really last. Main issue with plastics is scuffing and discolouration from UV... 'Product' like the so-called re-juvenation products you can get will just coat over the top and eventually look crappy again. But if you just want a quick fix product like 'Amourall' might do it.
Beam me up Scottie....

twocool

I wouldn't sand plastic, unless you intend to paint it.  I am doing an extensive aircraft restoration on a Viet Nam Era air force observer plane.  I've restored many of the plastic interior parts...they were mostly vacuum formed from ABS plastic..also called "Royalite".  Since I'm repairing cracks and missing areas...it comes our pretty rough..so I have to sand, fill a bit, and then paint....looks great once done...

If you sand without painting you open up the formerly smooth surface of the plastic and it will never look good........

I think most of the fairings on the GS are painted from the factory...so a conventional sand and re paint would work...

The black plastics are natural plastic....so they are going to fade and dull over time...but I still stand by Back to Black ..its cheap, easy to use...apply every time you was bike, or do detail job..

True that application products only give temporary results........but they do offer some UV protection...try to keep your  bike garaged or covered when not riding and plastics will look good for a long time.

Cookie


Quote from: Joolstacho on October 30, 2014, 04:56:18 PM
I've always found the only real way to do it that lasts is to wet and dry refinish, usually going to 1200 grade, or maybe to 800 grade if you wants a more matte finish.
I've found sometimes there is a surface discolouration / deterioration caused by UV.
It can depend on the part though... if it has a matte textured finish, fine grade steel wool may work.
And some plastic mouldings have a shiny surface finish that if you 'sand' through you reveal a more 'grainy' interior, then it's much harder to fix.
Always really thoroughly degrease then thoroughly wash the part before refinishing.

PS. IMHO I don't think you'll find a 'product' that will do a good job and really last. Main issue with plastics is scuffing and discolouration from UV... 'Product' like the so-called re-juvenation products you can get will just coat over the top and eventually look crappy again. But if you just want a quick fix product like 'Amourall' might do it.

Joolstacho

Well I've restored plenty of plastic parts, most of which come up good as new using my technique,- but note I DON'T DRY SAND. I use wet and dry rubbed wet, and only use FINE grades. Basically you're just taking a smoothing/polishing cut to fix the UV damage/stained surface, hardly removing material at all.
Each to his own.
Beam me up Scottie....

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