Deleted

Deleted...not worth the effort

Dennis...after about my 6th time putting a screwdriver on the mixture screws of 4 cylinder bike that had never been touch since it left the dealer, only to find all of the screws within a 1/16th of a turn of each other, I came to the conclusion there was really No real advantage to doing it any other way than I do it to this day. My riding lawn mower (single cylinder) is the only rig I adjust as you recommend. I have also been aware of the procedure you posted (numerous times) since I was in Jr High. Please don't implode knowing somebody does something different than the way you do. Respect is earned..you seem to be demanding it?

The 3 turn overlap from the mixture screws to the pilot is correct, my issue is you dogging the static method

It's the interwebz..serious chit Brah, but I think I have said about all I can without repeating myself
Stevo

Stevo,

Just do it your way and I'll do it mine and we will all have a nice Holiday

You don't have to prove anything an neither do I. You are the ones that are bent out of shape because I won't agree with you.

We disagree...let it rest.

I just commented on the head exploding post and you guys want to start it all up again.

Seriously...I posted what I know and how I do it...you guys have your way...it's all okay.

Hope everyone is safe and happy over the holidays.

Dennis

If the making screws idea falls through, a miniature screwdriver works as well

The way to resolve this really is simple and I'm dismayed plans are not already in place: the  proponents of each method tune their bike with that method. They meet in Death Valley and ride to Pike's Peak. I'll wait here because I'm comfortable. Whoever responds to the thread has presumably been correct, as the other will have been left on the side of the road somewhere between CA and CO.

Merry Xmas to all!

Quote from: Rallyfan on December 24, 2014, 11:56:56 AM
The way to resolve this really is simple and I'm dismayed plans are not already in place: the  proponents of each method tune their bike with that method. They meet in Death Valley and ride to Pike's Peak. I'll wait here because I'm comfortable. Whoever responds to the thread has presumably been correct, as the other will have been left on the side of the road somewhere between CA and CO.

Merry Xmas to all!

Merry christmas rally and all. That sir was the perfect reply lol. Reminds me of an exasperated parent. But it fits lol

Quote from: Rallyfan on December 24, 2014, 11:56:56 AM
The way to resolve this really is simple and I'm dismayed plans are not already in place: the  proponents of each method tune their bike with that method. They meet in Death Valley and ride to Pike's Peak. I'll wait here because I'm comfortable. Whoever responds to the thread has presumably been correct, as the other will have been left on the side of the road somewhere between CA and CO.

Merry Xmas to all!

Quote from: Krav on December 22, 2014, 01:48:12 AMWhat i just wanted to say about the screwdriverbits, is that i can't see and hardly feel if the bit actually caught the screw, or not.
I want an easier way.

First off, Merry X-Mas everyone!

I just had a Brain Fart, maybe find a short piece of fuel/vac line or even maybe some Tygon tubing, that has enough of an interference fit to stay in place when put inside the boss on the carburetors where the brass plug use to be 

Maybe by shrinking the diameter of the hole...that would make it easier to guide a short screwdriver onto the slot of the mixture screw when the carbs are on the bike???

 

i've been gone for a while... and i missed a gud pissing contest.... damit..... Slegde... you could have invited me to the party.....
why is the tard posting links to tune VM carbs when these are CV type carbs and i can't find shaZam! on tuning BST33 carbs... on the mikuni site.
i do believe the idea of turning the air screws out to 3 is that the gs borg are a bunch of cheap bastards and they try to tweak the carbs to run better instead of actually changing the pilot jets.

other items to consider are....
the pilot ckt is dominant below 1/4 throttle...... so almost never considered while racing.
the GS is a crappy race bike but a gud race bike for the $.... and yes i raced one for 8 YRS
if you are trying to squeak 75+ hp you'd have round slides or flat slides installed.
and
most importantly
this is still a budget bike with budget carbs built to pretty high standards.... therefore the close enuff for a friggin street bike rule still applies.

from what i read the OP added pods and 3 turns out(on pg 2)(i am not going to search elsewhere to see if he/she did something else)
and it runs like crap.... therefore.... fix the problem... bigger pilots?  cause you are at the max of the tweak for that sized pilot.
have you done a plug chop?.... what do the plugs tell you.....

carbs are majical things and  FI came out in the 50s and it took them engineers 50-55 yrs to get it to work worth a shaZam!.....

VM, CV, BST...fuel screw or air screw it's all the same. Your tuning the pilot circuit...one goes one way the other goes the other...but heck you guys can split hairs and piss and play forever. I figured that out. Someone put the "smart" hat on you all. Ha! ShaZam! Such a cool phrase man...and I'm the tard. 

well when i read the pilot tuning of the carb theory.... the numbers are different.... tuning is tuning.... there seems to be no performance tuning specs for the BST carbs.... because it is not a performance carb.   i'm glad you are smarter than the borg.  but a gs is not an indy car.

welcome to the gs board.  you may be more correct than others but most are toooo lazy to perform the perfect tune.... but  they are willing to get their bike running better than it did yesterday.  therefore close enuff is the general rule.  if you research the different types of jet kits avail.   they all make the bike run better..but do it differently.  jet sizes differ and needle taper differs between them... but they all work.

there seems to be no performance tuning specs for the BST carbs.... because it is not a performance carb.

Your right about that, but the reason isn't performance related. The BST is a model specific carb. Mikuni expects the motorcycle manufacturer to support them...Suzuki decided to not do a very good job of support. I've seen this over and over with carbs that were designed for the specific bikes...it's a pain, but there is info out there. VM's are open market carbs. They are used everywhere. That's why there is a ton of info.

I just put a TM Flat Slide on my Norton and jet sizes, needle info was non-existent. Had to figure it out myself...and that's an open market carb.

As far as needle taper, jet sizes, there are charts to determine what to use...thousands of different combinations...but you can do testing to determine what is right. I shy away from jet kits because they usually contain aftermarket jets and needles which can be problematic. I know that is way beyond what the average rider cares about...part of the reason this thread went south.

I'm concerned whether my bike is running rich or lean...or if it could run better. I use proper tools (O2 sensors are so cheap now anyone can own one) and use the info to tune the best I can. Plug chops are difficult to do with the fuels we have today. They burn much cleaner and it's hard to tell if you are running lean or not. Most people don't understand how to do a proper plug chop.

But like you said this is way more than most people want to do.

Thanks for being cool about it and welcoming me...sorry if I was a bit off.

Quote from: dennisgb on December 24, 2014, 07:50:12 AM
No, doesn't make my head explode. It just means that the pilot jet is too small. If they are stock it's not a surprise. The experts recommend that you go to the next size pilot jet. You can run it like that if you want.

Damn,another mistake. I meant to say pilot jet not needle jet! No wonder i've given up working as a mechanic- too many small mistakes in a job where mistakes can be fatal

Anyways,i'll maybe leave the pilots for now.I'm considering changing the muffler soon so that would be a convenient time to rejet .And besides,i'm lazy lol

sooo to answer the OP  question
buy a new set of carbs
they are about 200-300 a piece... probably want to look at the mikuni VM roundslides
then you need to have a custom throttle cable made.....
then study the jetting charts for your application.....
then buy 2-3 jet sizes couple up/down for the pilot and main
choose 2-3 needles up down....
ride the shaZam! out of it or put it on a dyno to get it as close as you can
total investment... $700-1200

or

learn to remove the carbs in 12 minutes and adjust the stock carbs to as close as you can get them.... butt dyno or dyno
once you adjust the pos... it will be about right.  done... ride 20 k then buy a diff bike that is better supported by the aftermarket industry


see this is easy people......

http://www.motosport.com/au/bikemaster-extra-reach-adjustment-screwdriver

there are also bevel drive screwdrivers made for just this purpose some with degree markings

changing carbes , unless its for a peformance upgrade will be a lot of trouble

cheers Brad

Your right about that, but the reason isn't performance related. The BST is a model specific carb. Mikuni expects the motorcycle manufacturer to support them...Suzuki decided to not do a very good job of support. I've seen this over and over with carbs that were designed for the specific bikes...it's a pain, but there is info out there. VM's are open market carbs. They are used everywhere. That's why there is a ton of info.


I thought about this statement I made last night and would like to add some additional thoughts. I think the reason the Suzuki does not explain the tuning procedure or provide much information on the BST is they can't. They must meet emissions and that is why they cap the air screws. But the manufacturer's know that eventually the carbs will get dirty...but then the owner "might" tune them out of spec and they would be responsible.

yuppers

they don't want ya fiddling with them.....they are built with a couple variable adjustments and slap them on..... with little aftermarket support even from the carb MFR.....   performance gains... round or flat slides... why waste time and $ on the stock stuff... they will never flow as gud as the gud stuff... so buy the gud stuff...

My guess is that the solution if you aren't handy and bring it back to the Suzuki dealer is a new carburetor.

I'm understanding why there aren't many people who understand or even want to understand how to tune their carbs.