Don't know if I'm providing any breaking news here, but for those interested I just mounted a set of these tires in 120/70 and 150/70.  The 150 is on a Kat 4.5" rear and mounted easily on this rim.  The tire clears the chain but does contact the brake pivot arm.  The front was an easy fit as well but it was a biatch to mount it on the stock front.  Don't know if it was my particular tire or not but where the rear took me 10 minutes to mount, the front took about 3 hours of banging, cursing, removing, mounting, removing, filling, etc.  There was a lot of pinching and it took a herculean effort to get the bead seated.

The new tires look great on the bike and there is a noticeable difference in appearance with the wider rear.  Can't give a review of the tires performance until it stops snowing and clears up in the northeast but so far I can say that they are an attractive tread pattern and an even more attractive price tag.  $160 shipped from Revzilla.

How were you going about mounting the tires? I used the tire changer at my work (automotive tire shop) for a couple sets of MC wheels/tires and they've always gone on simple

I use 2x4s under the wheel and every limb on my body to leverage and secure the rim in place.  I bought the Harbor Freight tire changing station and it has worked well in the past but I just didn't feel like setting it up in my garage for this change.  The unit is fully assembled but needs to be attached (bolted) to 4'x4' plywood base in order to make it stable enough to be useful.  I use an old paddock stand and a long threaded rod to balance the tires. 

Haven't had too much trouble in the past but for some reason the front was becoming deformed when I got it mounted.  The edges of the tire were stuck on the inner wheel well lip causing a deformity that wouldn't allow me to inflate the tire.  It was like the last bites of tire that I took would leave a dent on the tire's edge from the spoons.  I thought the tire was defective and that I had caused some damage to the sidewall.  In the end I put a ton of soapy water around the edges and taped off as much of the air gap as I could.  Then it was finally able to take some air and the tire took its normal shape.  But I scratched the hell out of my rim because I took it off and on 3 times and got impatient.  I took photos of the tire during the process...

OK, I'm confused .....

How are you going to run the bike if the rear tire contacts the brake pivot point?

150/70 rubs brake torque link on the right side, requires a little bend for clearance.



I ran a 150/70 Conti RoadAttack on the stock 3.5" wheel, NYNJ8's 150/70 would be about 10 mm wider on the Kat 4.5" wheel.

Hmmmm...

I still have a hard time understanding why people insist of putting on the wrong size tires.

What could possibly go wrong?

Cookie

The torque arm can easily and safely be modified or replaced and in all other respects, a 150 fits just fine.  Why bother?  Reason #1 for me is that wider tires look better.  Reason #2 is that I find a wider rear more stable at speed. 

I simply bent (or rather dented) the link right where the tire was rubbing.  Needed about 1/8" of clearance.  The tire was touching the link but there was very little friction or resistance.

Correct tire = Installs easy
Wrong size tire = Installs very difficult  (and comes out lumpy and you have to bend your bike)

just sayin'


Cookie

Quote from: NYNJ8 on February 04, 2015, 08:17:41 AM
The torque arm can easily and safely be modified or replaced and in all other respects, a 150 fits just fine.  Why bother?  Reason #1 for me is that wider tires look better.  Reason #2 is that I find a wider rear more stable at speed. 

I simply bent (or rather dented) the link right where the tire was rubbing.  Needed about 1/8" of clearance.  The tire was touching the link but there was very little friction or resistance.

Quote from: twocool on February 04, 2015, 09:16:05 AM

"you have to bend your bike"

lol that's a bit of a dramatization...But anyway, I can't argue with anyone who prefers sticking with stock sizes - after all they come from the factory for a reason.  But if I can safely make modifications to suit my preference then I'm with it.  If I'm compromising my safety then I'm and idiot, but research suggests that is not the case.

For Mounting new tires, 3 Words:

ZIP TIE METHOD.

Ive changed alot of bike tires this way. Each and every time I mount a new tire, I am literally dumbfounded about how easy it is.

The best part, There is never a mar or mark on the rim.

To remove tires. I have some plastic rim clips and a couple tire irons. They always slide right off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6WPzRRJLpA



Cookie

Quote from: The_Paragon on February 04, 2015, 11:43:42 AM
For Mounting new tires, 3 Words:

ZIP TIE METHOD.

Ive changed alot of bike tires this way. Each and every time I mount a new tire, I am literally dumbfounded about how easy it is.

The best part, There is never a mar or mark on the rim.

To remove tires. I have some plastic rim clips and a couple tire irons. They always slide right off.

Quote from: twocool on February 04, 2015, 12:49:45 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6WPzRRJLpA

Yepp, The slight mistake this guy made is not using enough zip ties. I line up about 6 ties in a on the tire closest by the point where the last part of the bead slips over the rim. This way the plastic zip ties ride over the rim lip and slide much easier than rubber. I think ive changed around 25 tires this way.

But I don't use my car...I use my workbench


Cookie

I'm confused...   (thought thats nothing new, Haha.)

Confused about what?  The $ .95  red neck 2 x 4 tire bead breaker?


Cookie

Quote from: The_Paragon on February 05, 2015, 09:27:08 AM
I'm confused...   (thought thats nothing new, Haha.)

I think theres a photo that i can see,

A photo you can see?...or a photo you can't see?

Anyway link below to the photo

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/bead-breaker/breaking-bead.jpg

Cookie

Quote from: The_Paragon on February 05, 2015, 01:34:59 PM
I think theres a photo that i can see,