Bought the bike with 2700 miles.  No clue what previous two owners used.  I put mobil1 synthetic in it immediately and have since put only 200 miles.  Any issue replacing with non-synthetic at this point?

I'm assuming that it shouldn't make a difference but don't know a lot about oil.  I bought a gallon of RotellaT 15w40 for 12 bucks vs the 12/qt of Mobil1.  If there is any doubt then I'll stick with Mobil1 over the $50/year savings.

Thanks guys and gals

Bought my 97 new and ran 10W-40 Spectro conventional mc oil for about 4k miles and then changed to Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive synthetic oil for about 60k miles and then went to Rotella T type 15W-40 conventional oils for another 20-30k miles.

Bought my 02 used with about 4k miles on it and assume that was with conventional oil.  I changed to Rotella T 15W-40 and went all the way to 100k miles on the Rotella t.

I'd put that Rotella T in your bike now without giving it a thought.

Great testimonial thanks Jack.

In transitioning I've always gone: synthetic => semi-synthetic => regular.  I don't know the exact science behind it but nature, and engines for than matter, seem to favor gradual changes over abrupt. 

I understand the thinking there but a fully drained engine (left for an hour or two) shouldn't really matter IMO , at different times I have even had mineral/ synthetic oil in engine at same time with no apparent ill effects, granted in trucks and cars only..  maybe a smaller bike size engine it matters? But I think also that keeping the viscosities matched is more important? !

Mobil 1 is fully compatible with conventional motor oils.

Everything is compatible with everything. I know a lot of peeps say not, but you can mix and match just about any oil the bike takes.

Just don't put fully synthetic in it at the end of life, as it leaks out the engine quicker.

I always put a 50/50 mix of 10w30 and 10w40 in my bikes. They work good for just about any bike, even with wet clutches.
Since the gs500f runs quite hotter than any of my other bikes, I equip it with 75/25% of 10w40/10w30.
It's about as eco as you can go.
Uess if you're living in Alaska, or Siberia, where you probably could better run 5w30.
After a good 33-50k miles I'd be running on 15w40.
No need to go 15W50, unless you live in a constant furnace, or you pass the 100-125k miles without engine rebuild or something..

On bikes with an oil filter it's better to use semi-synthetic, as it lasts longer than regular dino oil.
On bikes without oil filter the same, since prices are almost the same.
No good reason to use dino ever... Unless they're on sale and cost much less, and you need some quick oil to break in the engine.

Dino oil is good when you want to replace the oil quickly (and when it's cheap).

I wouldn't use fully synthetic on the GS. It doesn't need that. Precious $$$ wasted if you do. The oil filter isn't good enough to filter out particles. After about 4-5k miles you still need to change the oil, fully synthetic, or not...
It does help keep the engine cool, but is bad for the clutch.

Quote from: MeeLee on February 13, 2015, 07:59:27 AM
Just don't put fully synthetic in it at the end of life, as it leaks out the engine quicker.

There was some truth to that claim a couple of decades ago when fully synth was relatively new to the bike scene  but these days the problems associated with seal-swell rates have been overcome.

As for the use of fully synth vs semi and dino and its benefits..........has anyone actually got anything for the GS5 based on their own experiences yet? I have been asking for years now.

Not only the seals, but also the piston rings. As the engine wears out, it needs thicker oil near to the end of its lifetime, to maintain its performance.
I never have had more than a couple of 10k miles on a bike before, on the oldest bike I've ever owned, and moving from 5w30 To 10w40 increased performance, as the thicker oil provided a way to cover the few microns of tolerance on the wider, worn cylinders.
My Chinese small bikes generally needed an engine rebuilt between 20 and 30k miles, and probably would be comparable in tolerance to a GS at 60-75k miles.
you could actually feel the difference In acceleration, when going to thicker oils near to the end of its life.
Normally, It would make sense that an engine with thinner oil would accelerate better; but when it doesn't, you know that the engine is getting aged..

The best oil weight for your bike, is that oil that reduces engine vibrations.
On most bikes I've owned 5w30 and 10w30 where too light, and 10w40 was too heavy.
The right oil has a lot to do with outside riding temps, so even for the same bike, someone in the north will need to use thinner oil than someone in the south, if he wants the same results. The difference between w40 and w30 oils is less than 20f outside temp difference. W30 oils work well in sub 70f regions, preferably sub 60f. W40 is for sub 90f regions. It handles Heat better, but also is thicker than w30.
I notice most bikes I've owned, ran better with a mix of the two, creating something like a 10w35, or 7,5W35 on small engines (100-250cc).

The first number, 5W, 10W or 15W, can be determined by how the engine reacts cold.
Quite a few small bikes out there (sub 250cc), do not have the power to idle well cold.
If the bike dies out on a 75f or higher degrees day, cold, without choke, it needs thinner oil. Or if the idle rpm cold (acter a minute of idling) differs too much from idle hot  (eg:800rpm cold, 1500rpm hot), you might consider oil with a lower number, eg: from 15w, to 10w, or to 7.5w (mix 10w and 5w), or 5w.
It will raise your idle cold more than your idle hot, and will be more consistent, and allows you to lower the idle rpm screw (eg:950 rpm cold, 1400rpm hot).

The last number (w40) is determined on how the bike performs hot.
If the bike vibrates a lot with w30, and with w50, but less with w40, you should aim for w40. If w50 and w40 oils in the engine have the engine vibrate about the same, then go with the lighter one.
The GS gets really hot, compared to my other bikes, and also idles well on 10w cold.
Even on days of 60f, it almost starts up without choke.
So 10W is the way to go for me.
I haven't played around with the oil too much to know which one is better, but so far I'm content with 75/25% of 10w40/5w30 in it.
I'm a little scared to go with w30, as the temps of the GS, far exceed my other bikes, and I don't even use w30 there.
But I am thinking of switching to 50/50 on my GS in winter times. Summer perhaps stick with the 75/25% ratio.

Bit the biggest reason not to use fully synthetic, is because the GS has a wet clutch!

Concerning experience, I'm contemplating guys having low miles on their gs, and living in colder regions, if they can't go with 5w30 instead.
Especially if they removed the fairings.
In florida it's very hot, and so far I haven't had any clitch slip with my 5w30 and 10w40 mix.
If you're living in a region where the weather generally doesn't get over 75f, and you've removed the fairings, and you got less than 33k miles on your gs, I see no reason why to use anything heavier than 5w30.
5w30 is thinner, and thinner oil provides better cooling.
since my outside temps are at least 10f higher (sometimes 20f higher), and I use 10w40, and have no issues, I'd presume 5w30 would work better for those people living up north!

The GS is older technology, so the piston and cylinder tolerances are wider than any post 2008 bike, so I would not advise going lower than 5w30.
But 5W30 should gain you perhaps 5MPG, and +2MPH top speed over 10w40.

There are many topics all over the web about oils, and oils act almost identical on any engine.
From long distance riders on harley, Honda, and even car forums, there is no clear benefit of using Mobil vs Valvoline vs Pennzoil vs Castrol, etc...
Personally I did notice that Mobil 10w40 is a bit thicker than other brands 10w40 oils.
It is less good for MPG, but better for engines running in harsher environments, like dirt bikes, rainy countries, etc... due to more additives and stabilizers in the oil.

But for everyday riding, most other brands perform just as well...

Quote from: MeeLee on February 13, 2015, 02:06:53 PMBit the biggest reason not to use fully synthetic, is because the GS has a wet clutch!

Wut? Mobil 1 Racing 4T Motorcycle Oil is full synthetic and made for motorcycles with wet clutches.

It seems that fully synthetic oils, just like lighter, semi-synthetic oils like 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30 could cause clutch slip over time. Most of the time it's only when you're using your bike at max HP, top speed scenarios, and you won't notice in day to day driving where less than 50% of the engine's power is used.
I don't have experience with clutch slips on the GS, but had it on a chinese bike with 5w30 in it (losing power on the highway, had to slow down speed for clutch to grip again, burned smell).
It had a step through gearbox, something entirely different from the GS, but if it happened with 5w30 on that bike, it would surely have happened with fully synthetic oil.

I run Mobil 1 in my 50 year old Honda 50 (Super Cub). It uses exactly what is left over from a change on my GZ250.

regards
mech

Hi all  , I use  motul   10 /40   engine oil  , kind regards  rg500gamma

When is the last time you ever heard of someone saying that their engine was ruined because they used a certain brand of oil...or synth instead of standard...or the other way around?

It just doesn't happen that way!

Just look at the owners manual, and use an oil which meets the minimum spec...and your engine will last a long, long time.

Spending extra money on "fancy" oil on an engine which does not require it, is nothing more than a waste of money...

Cookie

Quote from: twocool on February 14, 2015, 05:13:09 AMSpending extra money on "fancy" oil on an engine which does not require it, is nothing more than a waste of money...

Cookie

How did the GS engine get taken off the list and why is my lawn mower still on it?

Keyword: Opinion
NOUN: a view or judgment formed about something, not necessarily based on fact or knowledge

This is why oil threads are like wiping your ass with a wheel 

If Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil wasn't over $10 a quart I would use it in all my bikes, IMHO it is a far superior product than dino juice, if just for it's ability it take the heat. I was once the Mobil 1 poster child but the cost made it hard to justify, personally I have recently jumped on the Rotella T 15w40 bandwagon and change it at regular intervals, because IMHO changing your oil on time is more important than the oil you're using. 

Sorry..I had to click oil thread (again)

 

Quote from: gsJack on February 11, 2015, 09:52:08 PMI'd put that Rotella T in your bike now without giving it a thought.

I put Rotella T 15w40 in my new "13 WR250R at 300 miles and intend to do the same with my new Boulevard M50 when it gets to 300 miles also.

EDIT: Sorry...4 clicks now

Stevo...

Are you agreeing with me..or are you disagreeing with me?   I can't figure it out from your post...it seems like you are doing both at the same time...

Anybody who says fancy oil is "better" for a gs 500...please give me examples of GS500's which crapped out prematurely due to plain, simple, minium spec. oil, and then give examples of GS 500's that lived extra long life due to  fancy oil...

Again... fancy oil is a solution for a non-existent problem...

BTW your application the the term "opinion" is purely based on your opinion....not based in facts either!

The FACT is...a GS500 will run perfectly, flawlessly, without issue, for upwards of 100,000 miles on any oil which meets the minimum spec.


It will do the same on $10 a quart fancy oil too...

But in the first case I will end up with $400 in my pocket!



Cookie

Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on February 14, 2015, 08:46:49 AM

Quote from: twocool on February 14, 2015, 05:13:09 AMSpending extra money on "fancy" oil on an engine which does not require it, is nothing more than a waste of money...

Cookie

How did the GS engine get taken off the list and why is my lawn mower still on it?

Keyword: Opinion
NOUN: a view or judgment formed about something, not necessarily based on fact or knowledge

This is why oil threads are like wiping your ass with a wheel 

If Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil wasn't over $10 a quart I would use it in all my bikes, IMHO it is a far superior product than dino juice, if just for it's ability it take the heat. I was once the Mobil 1 poster child but the cost made it hard to justify, personally I have recently jumped on the Rotella T 15w40 bandwagon and change it at regular intervals, because IMHO changing your oil on time is more important than the oil you're using. 

Sorry..I had to click oil thread (again)

Quote from: twocool on February 14, 2015, 06:27:40 PM



Stevo...

Are you agreeing with me..or are you disagreeing with me?   I can't figure it out from your post...it seems like you are doing both at the same time...

Anybody who says fancy oil is "better" for a gs 500...please give me examples of GS500's which crapped out prematurely due to plain, simple, minium spec. oil, and then give examples of GS 500's that lived extra long life due to  fancy oil...

Again... fancy oil is a solution for a non-existent problem...

BTW your application the the term "opinion" is purely based on your opinion....not based in facts either!

The FACT is...a GS500 will run perfectly, flawlessly, without issue, for upwards of 100,000 miles on any oil which meets the minimum spec.


It will do the same on $10 a quart fancy oil too...

But in the first case I will end up with $400 in my pocket!



Cookie

Yes I am confusing, and my point was if it makes you happy you can use synthetic in your lawn mower or your GS, and yes you can also run the cheapest oil out there if you want, to deem synthetic not required in a GS is fine, I guess what I was getting at is you can use synthetic in whatever if you want, it's all about what gives you the most peace of mind. Sorry for the confusion.

The "Spending extra money on "fancy" oil on an engine which does not require it, is nothing more than a waste of money..." quote was more about my belief that any engine can benefit from synthetic, if you don't mind the cost and it makes you happy use synthetic. Low Balling oil is far worst than going over the top. In reality most people don't do what gsjack does anyway, they will sell off the GS long before the 20K mark and move on.

And my "This is why oil threads are like wiping your ass with a wheel" was more at oil thread's in general and not aimed at you. Everybody wants to to treat their baby right, but when it comes to oil there is more than two sides to the fence...never ending and everyone thinks their way is best.

My statement of "IMHO it is a far superior product than dino juice, if just for it's ability it take the heat." synthetic's ability to thrive at higher tempatures has been common knowledge for years decades and was my main reason for using it when I did. Heat is oil's nemesis, I don't care about extended change out intervals. With all my current bikes being water cooled, synthetic has lost it's major benefit to me, that and the insane pricing. If I was a true bike beater and camped out at redline for extended periods of time with an air cooled bike, I wouldn't think twice about dropping the coin for synthetic.

http://www.doolittleoil.com/faq/synthetic-oil-vs-conventional-oil
"So what about synthetic engine oils? My first question is "what problem are you trying to overcome by using a synthetic engine oil?" Sometimes, it boils down to "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" meaning if you are doing well with a conventional engine oil, why spend more for a synthetic? One good reason to use a synthetic engine oil is cold weather starting. Synthetic engine oils crank easier and engines start easier and have oil circulating sooner thus preventing the wear that occurs in a cold dry start. Because of their capacity to reduce friction, synthetic engine oils may also offer increased fuel mileage. Synthetic engine oil may also be justified in engines in heavy duty service in hot weather. A synthetic engine oil resists viscosity degradation and stays in grade better at high temperatures."

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/synthetic-vs-conventional-oil/
"Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F."

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/synthetic-conventional-motor-oil.htm
"First off, synthetic oil is better than conventional oil when it comes to its form and function. Conventional oil could never stand up to synthetic when it comes to longevity and ability to handle extreme high temperatures without breaking down."

I promise to drink more coffee before I post in an oil thread, and I do use synthetic in my lawn mower, because I beat that poor thing harder than any bike I have ever owned 

Hi everyone , put it this way ,  if motul 300v  10w40  was only $ 2.00  a Quart  ,  more people would be using it in their motorcycles  as  said by  many motorcycle  dealers  around the world  ..........   kind regards   rg500gamma

If any of y'all are fisherman. .. and lure fisherman in particular. ... I always think fondly of the various blurbs on the 'latest/greatest' lure onto the market..  when reading oil bottle blurbs.. .  The improvements over anything previous are incredible as Elvis and Jesus both being reincarnated and having a lovechild thru genetic engineering and stem cell research combined!